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I have answered my own question, but thought providing the answer may save some one else looking to deeply. The connection part was a "user error" (mine) not realising not to respond to the screen message on first entering the car with "continue", should have responded "select"... Ho hum. As to the music source. The system on our model (Q5 TFSI e 50) 2025 model does play music directly from a USB stick. The file structure should be formatted "FAT32". I have music files stored as FLAC and Apple AAC, the FLAC files are both 16 bit and 24 bit, and up to 192khz. All play perfectly well. To. a lot of people, the above might not one important, to me it is. Far easier to upload files to a USB stick than my I phone and then playing it through the I phone system. Hope this might help others. Andy

Hello everyone, I thought I’ll share something here with people that might experience same problem as I did. Recently I’ve got a message on my MMI saying I have to enter my user login details again for some reason and I was not been able to do that. Every time I was putting in my email address and password, a message would come, saying: You could not be logged in at this moment, try again later. Or something like that. I’ve tried everything, log out from My Audi app, log back in, clear catch on my storage for Audi app, delete the Audi app, add new user, remove user key, literally everything I thought would help. Nothing worked, and I was driving my car under guest user for a while until today when I had enough of it and sat down again and started from the beginning, determined to crack this issue and I succeeded. What I did was: 1. Delete the app on the IPhone. 2. Reinstall the app back on the phone. 3. Reset the password via forgot my password after you type in your username. 4.. Remove the vehicle on My Audi app and add the vehicle back in, remember you need the vehicle identification code to do this. follow the steps from the app to add your car. 5.Factory reset your MMI or reboot to normal mode, you know, two fingers on RH on top of the screen. 6. When reset has been successful, log in with select user, or add new user, login in using your username and the password which you have reset earlier. This is what I did and it helped me to login and my Audi app is working normal too. I hope this will help other people with the same issue I had. all the best

Audi A3 2017 with an automatic S tronic gear box. Sometimes when I get in the car it’ll throw up a fault saying I no longer have reverse gear and then also takes away 2nd 4th and 6th gear. This is an intermittent fault that sometimes just goes away with keying the car on and off but the engine management light stays on permanently. Then other times I’ll get in and start up and it’ll throw up a different fault code. All really confusing because I never know if the cars safe to drive. I took it to a garage to have the faults diagnosed but because the faults keep coming back then clearing by themselves it’s almost impossible to get them diagnosed because it’s always random. If anyone could point me in the right direction or has suffered from this issue themselves any information would be greatly appreciated. I’ll attach the faults in images below. As I said both of these faults are intermittent so they come on and off all the time but the engine management light is constantly on.

Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply. Yes, having got this far it is really irking my friend that the change in his health and therefore his retirement plans is causing him to have to sell this vehicle in the near future. He hasn't done the cambelt/waterpump as yet because they are still well within mileage from the last time and he had the belts inspected and was told they were in good health. Playing Devil's advocate I pointed out they were out of time even though low (relative) mileage so he'll need to look at those jobs shortly. Biggest problem at the moment is this flattening of the battery.

I think if you add cambelt and water pump to that list you've pretty much covered all the big stuff you need to worry about as long as the services were genuine regarding fluids, filters and the like. Regarding the little annoying faults I guess it all depends on how much you enjoy tinkering with cars. I bought a 2 owner 2003 A6 last year with more service history and garage receipts than any car I've ever owned but I'm still sorting out all the small stuff bit by bit. As far as driveability goes the car is excellent but I like the little things to be right too so I'm quite enjoying the process (frustrating as it is at times).

Hi Chris, have you tried it with the canvas good and wet? That might give it enough "give" to do what you need to do. I'm a big fan of fixing things myself whenever possible so good luck to you mate.

I HATE electrical faults, they never seem straightforward to fix, unlike mechanical faults which can usually be sorted out with a bit of knowledge, common sense, and a decent pair of hands. Do you know anyone with a good VAG scanner mate or a decent mobile auto electrician locally? If not it's sounding like a trip to an Audi dealer if you can get the car there. Good luck.

Thanks guys for the replies. The info re the battery problem with the alarm sounder could well be the reason it was removed. Pity whichever previous owner removed it didn't pass along the dead one so someone could try to fix it. We'll have to track one down. We'll check out that erwin link too. Ref to wiring and the tailgate microswitch/"boot signalling permanently open" problem and possible link to the main battery being run down: had it been that abysmal auto engineering practice of passing wiring through door and tailgate/boot edges I'd have been on it like a starving dog on a bone as I've seen fractured wiring in those so many times. Perhaps I wasn't clear as to the car type/model. This car is an Audi TT Mk1 coupe soft top. The tailgate lock is mounted on the rear apron of the boot not on the lid. The lid just has the hasp. So no lock wiring goes into/out of the lid. It all runs along the rear apron of the boot and disappears behind the linings and off into the innards of the car. I'm trying to locate where the twin lead from the microswitch routes to without stripping out half the car and inevitably breaking the odd fastener or few. Anybody know the location of whatever electronics box of tricks it feeds into? The Haynes diagram (not probably the best source) indicates it ends up at the central locking unit. Where is that located and are there any other plugs/sockets it goes through to get there? I've attached a pic (not the actual car but one from the net) showing the lock placement on the rear apron.

Here are the pics of my fuses, could someone please tell me if anything looks amiss with them ??

So I have had the cluster sent to cartonix, they said it was fired up on their bench, sent it back to me, put it in and still dead!!!Someone did say to me that I will end up sending it backa nd forth to them to get it sorted!!! As anyone had this done and had to send it back and forth to get it right??

After using VCDS to remove the telephone from the list of installed components, the battery meter is now showing 100% in the morning, before it would range from 10 to 50%. I know it's unreliable, but it is a change. I rebuilt the mmi mechanism yesterday with the new bronze gears, what a struggle that was, so I'm going to try to fit it to my car today, I have no idea how my current screen is attached to the car, it looks like it's glued in. One thing I noticed is my alarm doesn't chirp when I lock the car, yet the alarm has gone off a few times when the battery is low. Can that be coded out with vcds? I should check the alarm batteries.

Yes, checking the wiring within the flexible harness section twixt tailgate/boot and body, is always worth the effort.

My MMI screen is blank, I have had the fuses checked and the cable is delivering power, so it would appear I need to replace the screen, I have found the part number (4G2.919.601.T or J or Q??) but these parts seem to be for the regular A6. Does anybody know if the screen from a regular A6 is compatable with the Allroad model as Allroad has the air suspension adjustment screen?? Any help gratefully received. Thanks

I have a 2008 Audi TT 2.0 FSI Base Model Coupe and I want to upgrade my turbocharger to a K04 F23T Turbocharger. Can someone please tell me ALL the additional parts I will need, if a software update is needed and any other information that would be helpful? If anyone has done this...can you please share your experience. Thanks!!!

Just re installed the old head unit. Unfortunately no change.

Not aware of specific OBD readers that will clear what is a very specific fault. VCDS will see it and you can clear the DTC. Side note, how old is the battery? These cars are sensitive to battery degradation, and wouldn’t put it past Audi not to have checked. A cheap multimeter is handy. Get AGM and code it to the car if it’s in any way suspect. For VCDS, you can get a 3-VIN package from Gendan for £222. Personally, get one with a case. What does that get you? Access to Rosstech software updates for life, update to OBD dongle on occasion. You just need a cheap laptop to run it on. Worth its weight in gold. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23NC.html

Most wiring for hatchback/coupe boot lids will enter the car near the hinge. Usually a rubber grommet, and not unheard of to have a break or some other anomaly there, so worth investigating. Regards the alarm horn, I’ll bet it had a failed rechargeable Ni-Cd battery in it and the previous owner stripped it out. More details here. https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-mk1-alarm-siren-fix.73315/ Getting the car connected to VCDS would help. If you’re chasing wiring diagrams, consider subscribing to ErWIN. You can buy access for a day and download or print what you need. https://audi.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do

UPDATE… So. Having tried to zip in the replacement plastic window a few times I have concluded that the canvass of the soft top has contracted over time and so the zip of the replacement will never be long enough to mate to it properly. There’s not much in it, but enough to make me think I’ll have to abandon the idea The remaining low cost option would be to forget about the zip then glue and pin the plastic in place before sewing it in myself after the glue dried. Failing that, it’ll be off to the pros to replace the whole hood. I guess it is 26 years old!

Hi Gareth, Apologies for the longish break from comms but life etc got in the way. The Jaguar(s): 2 x Series 3 V12 Sovereigns...one 1985 and the other 1988. 1988 is undergoing one of those ongoing renovations we all get into eventually that is turning into a long job. Hence just acquired the 1985 as a "light restoration" (to quote the advert) with a severe misfire to get back into "Jaguars on the road" a bit sooner. Meantime back to my friend's Audi TT. We got nowhere with the request to DVLA for info. Apparently wanting to rebuild your car's history isn't a good enough reason anymore. When he can he's still driving it around and it's running well (so it pains him to know he will be selling it soon). We're now back on ironing out remaining problems and one of which is it has a bad habit of flattening its battery if left standing for a couple of days. Some background: We have measured the parasitic current drain with the car standing idle and it is around 0.7 Amps continuous. That 0.7 Amp is flowing down the first red wire (the one next to the black wire) running from the battery distribution buss bar. On locking the car with the plip the alarm sequence does not complete: the doors lock but the sidelights do not flash and the red LED lights in the doors do not become active. We have discovered that some previous owner has removed the alarm sounder. The instrument display shows the bootlid as continuously open, even though it is locked. Could that be why the alarm cannot complete its cycle and hence the electrics never go "quiescent" so the heavy parasitic drain remains to draw down the battery? We have checked out the bootlock microswitch after spending an inordinate amount of time trying to find it and its associated cable. Thanks Audi for a superb way of hiding the switch behind the lock and between it and the car body plus making test access to it almost impossible without demounting the lock first. The microswitch changes state when the locking solenoid is operated. This produces no change on the instrument panel, it still shows bootlid open all the time. Removing the cable so the switch is effectively open circuit produces no change in the display. Linking together the pins on the cable end , so it thinks the switch is closed, produces no change in the display! We are now into unknown territory as it looks like the cable is defective somewhere between the end we can see and wherever it goes. Does anyone have any info on the routing of this cable and where it ends up? This flattening the battery problem is giving my friend a lot of grief (something he doesn't need right now) and spoiling an otherwise nice car. Can anyone offer any help/ideas?

Hi all, I’ve got a 2015 Audi A5 with a recurring issue related to the power steering control module (J500). The fault is U140A00 – Terminal 30 open circuit, and it disables the power steering when it happens. It's happened twice now under very specific circumstances where I've rode the clutch for maybe a second longer than I should have, before selecting third gear. The engine cuts outs mimicking a stall, and then the power steering is gone until a garage resets the fault. Audi performed an initial repair for £900, replacing some of the wiring. They reset the fault using their diagnostic tool (probably ODIS), and the steering worked fine afterwards — but the fault returned a week later, and they now want £3,500 to replace the steering rack, which I’m not convinced is necessary. If the steering functions perfectly once the fault is cleared, that suggests the issue is superficial — possibly a false positive or transient electrical glitch rather than mechanical failure. They've reset the fault again, and all is currently working, but it will fail again. My goal is to buy a reliable OBD2 device that can clear this fault when it arises, ideally one that can access the J500 module directly and possibly run some diagnostics too. Has anyone successfully used a consumer-level tool (OBD11, VCDS, Carista, etc.) to clear this specific fault? Would love to know: Which device you used If it could access the J500 module / steering assist If it actually cleared the U140A fault (and didn’t just read it) Thanks in advance! For anyone interested, this is Audi's diagnostics report: SYS01_x_1_0715_21_GW_Info_00000 Functional checks (2) Function test 3: SYS_8T_45_____1_0618_21_J500_FSP_00021 Time required (TU): 0.3 Result: X Time required (TU): 0.3 ( 2025-04-30 07:54:32 - 2025-04-30 07:54:41 ) Mouse clicks: 2 Keyboard entries: 0 Test step: Preparation steps Test step: Read fault memory Action: Message In the ABS control unit -J104 fault 01309 Power steering control unit / Read fault memory is stored. Test step: Read fault memory Action: Message Faults are entered in the fault memory of the Power steering control unit -J500. For further fault treatment work through the test plan. Test step: Caster Action: Message End of test. Function test 4: SPG_8K_48_____1_0511_SPGSVERSORGUNG_KL_30_A4_A5_00021 Time required (TU): 3.1 Result: OK Time required (TU): 3.1 ( 2025-04-30 07:54:51 - 2025-04-30 07:56:24 ) Mouse clicks: 14 Keyboard entries: 0 Test step: Preparation steps Test step: Brief description of test Action: Message Using this test program, you can check the following component/system: Terminal 30 Required test equipment: Possibly VAG 1594/13 CLAMP ON TEST PROBES from VAG 1594 A Connector Test Kit. Road test if necessary Test step: DTC memory Action: Message The DTC memory of the Power Steering Control Module -J500- stores the malfunction U140A00 Terminal 30 open circuit . Function call: jxxx_xx_1_0416_21_DTCs_pruefen_00000 Test step: DTC memory Test step: Check fuse Action: Selection Was the fuse for terminal 30 faulty and was it replaced? Input: No Test step: Check harness connector/wire 1 Action: Message - Check harness connector of Power Steering Control Module -J500-. - Check the connector for: Correct seating/loose contact; Bent and pushed-in pins; Widened connector terminals; Water entry, contact corrosion; Crushing, kinking and abrasion of the connected wiring. Action: Selection Is there a malfunction? Input: No Action: Selection - Check Ground (GND) connections of steering according to wiring diagram. - Check wiring for short circuit to ground. Is the wiring OK? Input: Yes Action: Message The wiring and harness connectors are OK. Control unit communication (UDS) Control unit: Power steering (LL_SteerAssisUDS) Job status: OKAY Service: SinglJob_ChangDiagnSessi Request parameters: Response parameters: Function call: j500_8R_48_____3_0111_21_fsp_loeschen_00021 Test step: Mode change Control unit communication (UDS) Control unit: Power steering (LL_SteerAssisUDS) Job status: OKAY Service: SinglJob_ChangDiagnSessi Request parameters: Response parameters: Test step: Read DTC memory Action: Message Next, the DTC memory of the Power Steering Control Module -J500- will be checked again. Action: Message DTC memory is being checked. Please wait Control unit communication (UDS) Control unit: Power steering (LL_SteerAssisUDS) Job status: OKAY Service: SinglJob_ReadAllDTCFreezFrame Request parameters: Response parameters: Control unit communication (UDS) Control unit: Power steering (LL_SteerAssisUDS) Job status: OKAY Service: SinglJob_ReadAllDTCFreezFrame Request parameters: Response parameters: Action: Message The DTC U140A00 Terminal 30, open circuit is not stored in the DTC memory of the Power Steering Control Module -J500-. Test step: Road test Action: Message To check the function, perform a road test while observing the following instructions. - Drive off-road if possible.

The only thing I have had similar was that the cooling system was blocked on a 2017 passat, it ended up being the silika bag in the coolant bottle had burst, it blocked the matrix and the cooling system.

Untill the new wheels arrive, I have put the old ones back on. I am undecided on the color, but the new wheels are bronze so the black calipers may look OK.

I think I’ve fixed it! I noticed that the option to deactivate the digital key in the MMI settings was greyed out (I guess because there was no digital key setup). So I re-added the digital key to my phone and was then able to deactivate it in the MMI. So now, whilst I now have the digital key in my iPhone’s wallet, it doesn’t work by me just walking up to the car and opening the door. And also, once in the car, I am no longer getting the message to set up a digital key.