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Hello Ants, Apologies for the delay in responding. Personally, I don’t like warranties, particularly those sold by salesmen on a ‘only £x a month’ basis. Possibly pessimistic, but I wouldn’t enter into any contract without copy of the warranty to be able to judge the all important exclusions - of which there are likely to be many. If you are happy with those, then fine. Service plans:- if it were mine, I would just put that money away per month, and get the car serviced at a trusted independent. Main dealer service plans can result in say ‘ your brake pads and discs need renewing’ and that will cost you £x hundreds of pounds’ and you could well be tied into it. What is your anticipated annual mileage Ants? Regards, Gareth.

Mark, You are now resorting to being abusive because no one to date agrees with your views. Totally unacceptable and immature behaviour. I will just dip out of making further responses to your posts. Repeated good luck with it. Regards, Gareth.

Could this be a wiring/earthing issue? Might be worth asking an auto electrician to take a look

This could be caused by the battery if it's old and not operating properly. Might be worth having it checked first.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Update on this - problem has finally been fixed. Turned out to be an issue with the transfer case after all. Took it to a transmission specialist who's had a few in with the same problem. It was an expensive fix. Anyway, just relieved that it's sorted, noise/thumping is gone and can finally enjoy driving it again! Thanks for all the help

Steering wheel symbol illuminated, ESP symbol illuminated. MOT man won’t test it, I had a garage connect their diagnostic equipment - “needs coding, not something we do unfortunately”. I bought it with a faulty OSF window/door - intermittent power, I replaced a broken window regulator and a corroded a-pillar harness socket. I reconnect the battery and the warning lights appear. Any advice whatsoever very much appreciated.

OBDeleven_Log.txt

Ermm not really… the B6 engine is well known for timing problems… not many B6 engines out there that haven’t had timing issues… Ridiculous that people come here looking for advice and get not one but two dumb !Removed! moderators running there stuff down.

Because the timing chain/valve problem is the result of plain and simple neglect, so you can be sure it will not be the only bit of maintenance that has been neglected. The chances are that the rest of the engine is worn out. The car may look immaculate but it is is actually a broken down wreck.

You're welcome 🙂 please keep us posted on how you get on

Really no need to shout Mark - we don’t do that on here. Your car, your decision, your logic. Look at it like this Mark, you know the full facts, and if you only share that information with us as you see fit, then it makes it very difficult for anyone to offer you logical advice. Good luck with it.

If you remove the part, there will be an Audi part or VAG number on it. To be honest after market undertrays are cheap plastic. Search on EBay for genuine part, or a breakers years. One word of warning if you find anything on breakersyard.com, utter charlatans.

Thanks probably best to remove first then have a look cheers for your time take care

You're most welcome. You need to make sure you get one from the same engine and gearbox as yours as the undertrays can vary depending on the engine or gearbox due to there differing in size etc.

Right… Audi s4 4.2 v8, 78k genuine miles with full Audi service history. Just under 11 months MOT. Why would this be worth more scrap when it could literally be just a case of replacing valves? Money isn’t an issue for me as I’ve already stated… FOR ME ITS LEARNING or did you miss that part?

I got both the hubs and bearing kit from ebay with the bearing kit £17.50 ea included both bolts from carpartsinmotion they had good feedback and the hubs purely on price 2 front for £50 from brillbuyuk although they have good feedback

Probably worth more for scrap/ breaking than the cost to rectify the issue. If you are not thinking that far ahead, then you certainly aren’t thinking about the whole issue from a logical point of view

So where did you buy your Febi parts from Tony? Ferodo? that’s why I asked him how old his mechanic was. In Mk 3 Cortina days - when you couldn’t give them away, unlike now, when they aren’t affordable! - The two makes of brake shoes and pads to buy were Ferodo and Mintex. Now?? Like Cortinas , things have moved on. Wouldn’t any longer be my choice, but…

Not sure not even thought that far ahead? Would probably keep it for myself

OK Mark, but repeating :- What value would you put on the car when it’s up and running properly? Take it it has a sensibly long current MOT.

Yes I guess magnet. For me it’s all about learning, I’m getting into the mechanics side of things and these are great ways for me to learn! So far the car owes me less than £400! The car is in immaculate condition!

So it’s head off then, and replace at least 2 valves - they don’t stick if they aren’t slightly bent. New timing chain and associated components. Refit everything and keep fingers crossed that the work and expense has resulted in some sort of rectification. How do you value this 20 year old car Mark, when you have it back in reasonable working order?

I have the knob in the boot on the right, the light goes from red to green etc, however when turning and holding I can’t release the tow bar, that means I can’t deploy is there anywhere I can spray or check the solenoid

Hi all help is needed here please i I bought my c6 Allroad about 12 months ago, the seller said the backup camera needed calibration I’ve looked around etc as I was told it should work but a blank screen through mmi 2g high is more likely a hardware fault. i have changed the switch box on the right hand side, I have fitted a 3rd party camera. Then I found the Audi only works on a 5v system so with 3rd party camera I boosted the v to 12v and bingo I have a picture. i have now bought an original camera and back to a blank screen so boosted to 12v and it works. i was then told it’s the mmi screen so I have updated to an android radio and again blank 12v and it works how do I increase the power to the camera or is there something wrong else where? many thanks