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Insufficient tyre inflation? One or more? Surely the car would think it was too low and would pump up the bag(s) rather than allow it to 'sag'? The corroded level sensor doesn't make sense either. They are flimsy looking articulated things connecting the suspension leg to the frame and it would be impossible for them to seize without breaking. Also, they don't appear to be prone to corrosion on my nearly 20yr old Audi. I would have thought if one was u/s it would have thrown up a code of some sort.

That’s interesting. My dad, who is now a retired HGV mechanic also suggested the self levelling sensor and we asked the garage today is they have assessed and eliminated this sensor? Unfortunately, the person at the dealership was unable to confirm as they are were not the master technician who was working on my car. I am paying them £216 per hour just for them to say ‘I think it might be’ so I’ve asked them for a detailed report of their findings. the bill is growing significantly, with technicians are effectively dismantling the car without producing any definitive answers. At what point do I say enough is enough and the cause of the issue remains unidentified. This pattern of inconclusive results raises serious concerns about a potential manufacturing fault, rather than wear-and-tear or owner-related issues.

Hello to all! So... finally, I made it! I bought it yesterday. So, now let's set some " Year Zero". The car itself is very good but it has some flaws. The owner told me, as I wrote before, that the last oil change was 3 years ago... but the last checked oil change was SIX years ago... We got it running flawlessy and I made 140Km to get to my mechanic and start some troubleshooting. I don't think, in fact, that is an AKE, because I saw written in the "pink slip" that the engine code is "BDH". We drained all the old (very old) oil and we put: Some shell 5W-30 Audi Specific All new Mann filters Apart from that, the car last belts change was over 8 years ago ( and over 100.000Km ago) so next week we will do this works: Water pump and belts (auxiliary and main) EGR blanking Swirls blanking (got some error codes) ZF Oil, pan and filter for the Tiptronic A bluetooth dongle to install in the RNS-D Right now, my mechanic's advice is to "loose" all the old oils and liquids of the car for one week of daily use and then drain all and put all totally new. Just one strange things tends to happen sometime: at cold, the car first time cranks but not starts. Then I put again the key, crank again and it starts ( we change also the fuel filter and the battery) Here's with my beloved "Old Lady" Cheers!

Good luck with that Andy.

Just joined hoping someone would like to buy my wifes cherished dark blue A4 Cabriolet. 2 lady owners, 54000 miles, FSH and always garaged. She is looking for around £3000, having been offered £2400 by an unpleasant dealer who test drove it.thanks Bob

Hello I just bought a 2010 Audi A3 and it had a problem with the Mechatronic Transmission and I fixed it. After fixing it, I did an OBD test and it showed that there is a problem with the code 06408. What do you think the problem could be?

hi i have a 18" space saver wheel pcd 5x100 (new) i would like to swap it for a 16" space saver one pcd 5x100 any one out there that will do so please give me a message or if you have a 16" one to sell please contact me cheers

Hello First I want say everybody I am new on this forum and I don't know if my topic will be validate ( because of new) but this is what was happened: I have a 2008 Audi A6, last year in August I did something stupid, I gave it power and reversed the terminals, I burned the alternator, I changed 4 fuses for the MMI, and more, after which it started, something star drain my battery (bought new in May 2024), last week I tried to find the consumer by removing all the fuses one by one to see which consumer I have, before I put a meter and it shows around 3.44 amps, all the fuses are ok, I took pictures before I took them out to know where I need to put them back, after which I also removed the positive terminal to measure there too, I don't know what gave me the positive terminal, the important thing is that now comes the beautiful part: it doesn't start anymore (I put the key in and I turn to start , is doing like vruuum 2 sec and that's it the engine stop) the dashboard clocks don't turn on anymore, there is no power to the OBD socket so I can put VCDS on it. If anyone have a clue about my problem please let me know asap. Thank you

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

I'm signing out of this forum but I thought you might like to learn that Audi in America advocate a long-soak method of oil flushing before oil change to try to solve this very common problem. It sounds very severe to me - 45 minutes at 3000 rpm after adding the substance - so I'd have reservations. But you can't buy it retail anyway, only through Audi dealers.

Has anyone had problems with the wiring to the rear camera causing interference with the DAB aerial? I haven't fitted my rear camera yet to my '22 A4 but had real problems with the interference in my Skoda Kodiaq. I fitted a lot of ferous cores along the cable but it had little to no effect. I believe the DAB aerial for the A4 is on the rear screen which could be a problem. I would expect to route it along the passenger side roof lining and over the B and C pillars. Any suggestions or experiences of this?

The light comes on as soon as I press the brake peddle for the tailgate brake light. I'm in process of taking it out to inspect it but have come to a halt and hope someone here might be able to help me - Google is not being helpful. I've stripped the inside of the tailgate, thinking there might be bolts that release the spoiler to access the light. There were two 10mm bolts, which I have removed. However, the spoiler is still held fast. Is it also bonded on or am I going about this wrong? Thanks, Guy

I have joined, as I have owned a B7 Avant 2.0TDI S-Line Special Edition for about four years. I bought it as a mile muncher to commute to and from London and as a general work horse. It is now a hack for local and long distance journeys due to the wretched ULEZ. Confession - I have an illness where i do up all my cars to a standard that is not financially viable, but it means the cars look and drive fantastically. This car has had a massive amount of parts replaced to make it mechanically tip top. The only last thing it needs is a set of front arms, which I plan to replace in the next month or so. It's a 140 bhp with a stage 1 map, added cruise control and centre armrest. I sold the twin spoke Special Edition wheels and replaced them with the Ronals in the photo and they are wrapped in Cross Climate 2 rubber. I might pop in occasionally to ask a question and have a browse. Guy

Best place would be eBay including international sellers. I know what it's like though, I've been looking for a glovebox for my A6 C5 for 3 years.

Nonsense. You asked a vague question about oil additives. "I'd appreciate any advice out there about oil treatments" were your precise words. That's not a technical question, nor is it framed in the precise terms one would expect from a supposed engineer. And when the replies failed to match your hopes of a magic solution you resorted to accusations of unhelpfulness and ignorance. An old adage comes to mind here: "You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink." For an alternative argument consider the matter in a logical manner. If the snake oils you are investigating really worked, do you think Audi would have spent hundreds of thousands of pounds on an engineered solution if a few bottles of thixotropic viscosity modifiers such as polyisobutylene were sufficient?

Hi Ian When I had my A6 it was on a tag with the spare keys.

Apologies Andrew - misinterpreted this to mean you couldn’t source a replacement! My mistake. Hopefully someone will be along to help you out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi, I have a A8 D2 3.7 quattro 2000 since last June, I need some parts or accessories for repair, and the part that I want it is the down grill of loudspeaker in right door. (I added picture). Its reference OEM is 4D00354051RS, but I can’t find it anywhere. Somebody can help me? Thank you so much. Melqui Bautista.

Hi I have an Audi a6 C7 with VIN WAUZZZ4G4CN056441 For the passenger side (UK) drive shaft would it be part 4g0407271a or will 4g0407271f also fit? Brand: A VIN: WAUZZZ4G4CN056441 Model year: 2012 Description: A6 Sal. TDI3.0 V6150 A8M Sales type: 4G20NH Delivery date: 25.10.2011 Production date: 30.09.2011 Engine code: CLAB Gearbox code: NKP

Okay just new , still finding my way around, thx

Interesting John, and fix. Just been listening to someone on YouTube with a Q7. They had sagging suspension overnight and replaced airbag suspension up front and the fault continued. According to them this was traced to insufficient tyre inflation. Now this got me thinking, hold on, this is a Q7, TMPS has been in place since 2012, so surely a incorrectly inflated tyre would have flagged an issue? Apparently there was an update to the story and it was in fact one of the self levelling sensors that was corroded. Would be worth checking them out that there’s no corrosion or damage before condemning the airbag.

Jason. I have merged your two identical topics. Please do not create duplicates. You won't get any extra attention by doing so.

I thought I'd reply to this as apart from being hopefully amusing it might help someone with a similar air suspension problem. Although it's about my 'forever car' I think one Audi air suspension strut and compressor system is much the same as another. A few years ago my 2005 D3 SWB W12 at 70,000miles started to sag at the front when left overnight. The compressor would restore the height and the orange and green lights would go off. But the tiny leak got worse and the compressor sometimes needed two goes at it, presumably because the thermal protection switch would cut in after much noisy pumping. Lots of air was lost from the system when the clever car tried to keep itself level by transferring air from the high pressured accumulator to the lower pressure leaky strut (see Audi SSP 292, P31). If overworked, the compressor or its relay will eventually fail. To locate the leaky strut, I put it in ‘jack mode’ to prevent level equalisation. Next day only the front driver’s side had bottomed out. I removed the under bonnet trim to expose the strut's upper mounting, slid the large dust cap back along the black wire, and did the same with the smaller dust cap underneath it. With jack mode off to restore pressure in the strut, I sprayed soapy water around the strut and poured about 15mls into the top of the mounting, not filling it above where the black wire goes in. No sign of leak from the strut air bag behind the wheel but foam appeared on top of the strut mounting. Diagnosis – the tiny top ‘O’ ring has failed, impossible to replace without major work and the garage rejoicing in a big bill for a new strut. I suspect this is the most common failure rather than the larger bottom ‘O’ ring or the tough air bag itself. I replaced the foam with about 20 mls of clear water. With a magnifying glass I saw a tiny stream of bubbles appearing from below the 18mm locking nut. So I put jack mode back on and waited a couple of days till the bubbles stopped when the pressureless strut had bottomed out. Then I sucked out the water and left it to dry thoroughly. Then I injected a layer of some tough ‘CT1’ sealant. After a day to harden, I added another layer….then another. Then, jack mode off to restore pressure in the strut. Sadly, it didn’t completely cure the leak, but it took around three days to sink rather than just overnight. But a little later the WABCO compressor finally failed, rattling away uselessly. Although access is via the wheel arch for most A8 cars, it is impossible for the W12. The front bumper has to expensively come off. So I bounced it along to my capable indy to do this and the compressor, reconditioned with my repair kit from ‘bagpiping andy’, is now silent. I could live with the leaky strut, remembering to put a bespoke 30cm x 12 x 6 wooden block under the jacking point with ‘jack mode’ on if unused for a few days. It’s important to leave the car in ‘jack mode’ so the compressor doesn’t have to replenish the whole system every time the car is used. Amazingly, a few weeks ago (at 76000 miles) I noticed the car no longer sank onto the block, even after well over a week. Somehow the amazing CT1 sealant (incidentally good for repairing trainer soles!) seems to have almost sealed this top end leak! I hope this story helps someone with a similar problem as I don’t believe I’m the only one with O ring failure which a garage would probably resolve with a new strut and a hefty four figure bill.

Hi thanks for your reply. I will have a look

Hi Gareth, I have searched under the bonnet. I have had A3s before but the Quattro is different. I have been looking for the housing with a 32mm nut holding the oil filter housing, but it isn’t under the bonnet. I haven’t taken the under tray off yet.