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David. I have merged your latest post into an identical one you posted on May 18th last year. Have you even bothered to read the reply from Steve Q?

It is worth trying to negotiate with the owner directly, rather than through the middle man, if that is possible and legal in Singapore. You may not get any where, but if other possible buyers have looked at, and rejected, the car on the basis of the repair cost, he may be tempted to compromise.

There are other models too that are slightly more expensive. But I don’t mind walking away to get a better car. Yes that’s right. It’s a non-refundable deposit. But I saw the clause and its states that if I walk away from the deal, then I might need to pay double the deposit. It feels like a scam company to do this kind of agreement Yes. It’s around £1700 as deposit. 😞 Thats right. I’m buying it from a direct owner but there is a middle men, a consignment company, helping out in this deal. The consignment company is the one with a clause stating that if I walk away from the deal, I will need to pay double the deposit amount, also the $3000 is non refundable. anyways, the car is now at Audi service centre to look at the condition of the car and advise on the repair cost. It should be out tomorrow. Do you think i should ask the current owner to pay for the repair cost and I drive out the car or should I negotiate the price down?

Hello, hope someone can shed a bit of light on this for me, I have a Allroad A6 3.0tdi sport quattro with 96000:mile on it, my car make a noise like pinking ,the noise you get in petrol engines when fuel is wrong for example. I only does it when I accelerate i.e underload not so much in the mornings but only slight, this seems to be the only problem and it doesn't effect the cars performance, and no fault codes, any ideas anyone.

Update , 2 new tyre on front, so new tyres all around , still humming . So my only other thinking is a wheel bearing, on same side as the cv joint was changed on .

I'd definitely recommend speaking to the company that sold you it. Just in case they sold you the wrong parts to make it fit your dash.

If bought from a dealer within the first 30 days of sale then you're entitled to a full refund or for them to fix the car free of charge

Keep us posted on how you get on

Paul would you care to edit your last message. I think you omitted your own text as it contains nothing but quotations of the two previous messages.

Seen loads of these stories. If selling a car make sure you're not alone. Make sure they either come alone or with one other person. Anymore people refuse to see them.

Hello David, This thread originated 4 years ago, so could you start a new thread and clearly outline your symptoms -as you would if starting from scratch. Many thanks, Gareth

See blow post that I put on my F/B profile. I’m so annoyed and I now have to go to the expense & inconvenience of having my water system flushed out. Why O why do sleazebags do this to us! Grr

Hi all Wondering if anyone can help with the fitment of this screen, I purchased a 8.9 inch Android screen, the wiring and getting it working was a total breeze - Glove box removal, trim, feeding wires etc... Now here comes the most confusing part. My car is a RHD, UK model. The screen does not fit on the iron frame (something you need to screw in for the screen to sit on) and the plastic surrounding the frame seems to be getting in the way, it maybe a modification is needed i.e. by cutting some trim away See, if I remove the bottom right plastic (circled in pink) the screen screws fine on the frame but when I install the plastic frame housing the bezel of the screen shows OK to then have to shift the frame to the left?.... So if I remove the top right plastic (circled in pink) then the screen does not align with the iron frame? I thought this would just fit? Anyone else had to modify the plastic in order for it to fit or have I just bought the wrong item, seller confirmed this was correct but I guess they would do

You need to get a pry-bar on the suspension. Arms are usually good for around 80k miles. Upper arms possibly. An inspection of the engine and transmission mount would be worthwhile as suggested. If you are changing arms, Meyle HD or Lemforder only.

sweet as

Hi my Audi A6 C7 3.0tdi Allroad makes the same noise any ideas

The clusters can't be swapped out easily as they have the imobiliser built in.

That is impressive

Could it be an engine or gearbox mount?

Hey guys I have an A4 8.5 2013 SE Technik which has an odd noise for what appears to be coming from the drivers side front. When I accelerate in lower gears such as 1st gear from standstill, there is a clunk sound. When pulling out of junctions and turning left or right the noise also occurs. When driving the car the noise can sound like 1 clunk or 2 or 3 at the same time? Anyone recognise this sound? The drivers side lower forward arm and drop link has already been replaced. 20250613161925-007.WAV

Yes I have had a look here and on other places to could not find anything I think it something to do with the blend door vent thing as on drive side you can feel the air con slightly but passenger side just stay on what ever the temp is set to with no air con

Have you searched and read the forum posts associated with air conditioning?

Not that you can do anything about it with your current wheels, but large wheels = skinny profile tyres = horrible ride quality = harsh stresses on sidewalls, which usually results in a necessity to have XL tyres, which just compounds the ill effects of above!

Thank you for your reply Is the pressure sensor the same as the turbo pressure sensors or is it something different I will have a look into it love the car only owned it since last year love the drive just the odd little problem I am having Will defo get it checked as it getting hotter and I spend a lot of time on the motorways so defo need to be done The code that comes up I have looked around and all I can find is that code for a different system not the air con It a strange one and will update soon as it sorted I hope Thanks