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I’ve noticed recently that I’m getting a whirring noise between about 2-4 rpm when the cars up to temp. The warmer it gets the more noticeable it is. I thought it might be something to do with the drive train etc but when it’s happening, if I disengage the clutch and the engine drops to idle the noise goes away. Bring the clutch pedal back up again, noise returns? Sounds abit like a wheel bearing

Hi thats chain driven therefore you have the possibility of chain stretch or guide wear which can only be corrected by replacement. Steve.

Hi Steve, Sorry, I have the CRTD engine A7 2017.

Hi Gareth/Cliff, this was always coming the Germans tried it back in the late 70s with type approval on car parts within Europe, you were obliged to use manufacturer parts, that went out of the window when everybody and their dog worked out that the manufacturers had changed their practise and were not making the parts anymore but buying from people like Bosch Febi LUK Hella, the list is endless, therefore what was the difference between a Bosch part direct and a Bosch part with a VAG Logo, nothing except the Bosch direct part was about half price, this will not be as easy as they have a more than valid point, I love my cars but am realistic enough to take on board that Nox 1 is deadly and has to be reduced as it has been by the manufacturer, I agree in principle to what they propose as it drives me mad with the remap brigade who will happily try and belittle those who don't have their vehicles mapped as being dull and stupid, think of all the extra power you could have, then I have to smile when they end up on this forum bleating for help with problems of their own making which no one can help with because the vehicles been modified or as they put it improved, what price improvement, prime example being the poster with the A1 that had low compression and running problems because of a melted piston, after wheedling out of him you begin to wonder why anyone in their right mind would remap an engine that has a supercharger and inline turbo fitted and a history of melting pistons on its own without the aid of a remap, we have to get past a basic ignorance of what this process does to your car long term. Steve.

Have a look at it, tell us what make it is, and whether it looks well used or newish.

Ha ha .... Found the data label in the boot !!! So it's a 130kw 2.0 tdi (CGLC) and a bunch of other codes.

Hi all, Recently bought a 2012 62 plate Q5 S Line + TDI Quattro and thought I'd decode the VIN to work out it's details. But, 4th, 5th and 6th digits are all Zs, so not able to work out Series and Engine. Couple of on line decoders can't work it out and the WSM Spec guide doesn't have Zs. WAUZZZ8R1DA00xxxx This the same on the reg doc, label on the bulkhead and dash and in the service book. Reg doc lists Variant as XCGLCQ1 and Version as QM6B2023R8R7C7MGEM1 and Engine number as CGLC188xxx Any ideas ?

could be just an o2 sensor or a could be a vacuum leak but check with a scanner

Many thanks

If this https://bridgeclassiccars.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/07/Regulating-environmental-impact-of-in-use-emissions-of-road-vehicles-GOV.UK_-1.pdf is the proposal you refer to Gareth, then pages 3 and 8 will require old vehicles to be maintained and operated to the same emissions standards as existed at the time of manufacture. In other words any modifications that increase emissions will be illegal, as will natural wear and tear. That's going to be quite a blow to many drivers.

That’s a good question. I can phone up the dealership and ask them as I guess there would be no other way of knowing ?

As I understand it, a proposal document was issued on 6th July, aimed at better respecting emission requirements for used vehicles. Please don’t take the following as gospel, but a brief scan suggests, cat backs, DPF, Adblue deletes will be taken as unacceptable since the vehicle has been modified from the manufacturer’s construction. It is likely that any mapping of ECUs will fall under the same umbrella. If passed, this could be implemented as early as mid/late 2027. Anyone, who has had such modifications carried out, would be advised to study the document carefully, and tender your objections - by September? Regards, Gareth.

Perhaps a daft question Abeer, but was the battery renewed shortly before you bought it? I ask since if that new battery wasn’t coded to the car, then the alternator is likely to keep overcharging the new battery, eventually cooking it, but meanwhile resulting in it having an increased voltage over approx. 14.5V - at which point the EPS would become too assisted. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks all!

After I purchased the car, I noticed the cars alignment was out so went back to Audi to get it fixed. They confirmed it was slightly out of alignment and they had fixed it. Other than that no other work has been done to the car. Only got it about 5/6 weeks ago

The change to steering alignment would have been felt immediately at the steering wheel. That the feel changed some weeks later means something else is causing the problem. Power steering should always reduce as the speed rises in order to retain the "feel" or resistance to steering input. It sounds to me as if that reduction is not happening, so unless you can correlate some other alteration to the car to time of the light steering as Gareth suggests, I suspect a control fault that needs electronic diagnosis. I don't know if OBDeleven would do the job. VCDS is the usual recommendation for a fully functional code reader amongst those who know about these things. As a side note can I ask why you changed the alignment? It is normally only done after a tyre change, new suspension parts, or a crash.

Thanks Karl for that useful information. It is worth noting that modern cars are extremely sensitive to the electrical power supply which needs to be stable under all load conditions. Dying batteries can often start the engine normally yet cause a variety of electronic faults such as loss of automatic stop/start function, and false warning messages on the dashboard, amongst others. Even top quality batteries can need to be replaced after five years.

That sounds like the old Windows solution to all problems: turn it off, then turn it on again and hope for the best. Fingers crossed it works in your case.

Hello I am not asking for help, but I thought I would share what resolved an issue on my A6 2015 2L TDI Ultra. 2 years ago, I first got this same issue. My local garage couldn't find any error codes with their ODB reader, a Snapon one I think, so they recommended that I take it to Audi! Audi told me it was the Adblue pump and after just under £1500 spondoolies later I was back on the road, feeling skint. Roll on 2 years, I am driving home from Heathrow, wiped out from Jet lag, and 3 miles from home, boom, the same alert pops up. Audi are booked out for 5 weeks, so I started googling, and decided to go for a VCDS connector from RossTech, which I bought from Gendan Ltd, great service from them. Connected it up and ran a scan, but nothing specific came up for Adblue issues. It did say that my battery was low on power and failing! Googled a bit more and found low battery voltage can cause these types of no start errors, as the sensors and pump are very voltage sensitive. It also said it can cause other minor issues. I also had a problem where the automatic handbrake wouldn't come one and other niggly things, which I just put down to bugs in Audi software. So I bought a new battery, used VCDS to code it to the car so BEM would reset, cleared the remaining error codes, reset Adblue modules and took it for a drive. After an hour, the alert was still on the dash. Feeling despondent, I started heading home and 5 mins later, the warning had gone, fault clear and I am good to go. It just needed an extra long drive for the ECU to clear the fault. So just a heads up, its not always a £700 part to replace, beware of failing batteries, £180 for a new one, phew! Going to use the VCDS to tweak a few things now like disabling the stop start always on pain in the !Removed! feature.

Thanks Abeer, Before we get into more complex paths of modules etc. what else has been renewed on the car in recent times - however insignificant or unconnected it might seem? Regards, Gareth.

I think part number is 8W8827851E. Personally I’d avoid EBay and order something from Autodoc. Makes including Bugiad (Germany), and Stabilus which I think is OE. They are £250 per strut. You will probably have to go to relearn mode once fitted and sync them.

Normally the ‘o’ ring. The mating surface on the sump needs to be clean. I’ve seen this job done before with a vacuum without draining the oil. Lightly lube new oil sensor seal with fresh oil, and nip up bolts. Don’t quote me, but think only 10Nm.

Makes a bit more sense now Abeer. 22 inch on an S3!

The door on a B9 is different to a B9.5: B9: B9.5: