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A good result with the car James, though I can't help wondering why the fault was not picked on the PDI. Cars aren't normally supplied with spare wheels nowadays, hence no tools.

Hello Dan, Does the noise persist when you hold it at 3k revs and depress the clutch? Try to use alternative words where ‘Removed ‘ appears.

No spare wheel, no tool kit James - goo and a compressor. Regards, Gareth.

Picked the SQ5 up yesterday. The drive home was amazing and NO warning lights so I’m happy. Going through the boot checking everything is there and no tool kit. My last Q5 had one, jack, wheel bolt wrench and wheel alignment pin. The toeing eye is there and stuff for a flat tyre. So do they still come with a tool kit or not? Also they are going to give me £250 as a good will gesture which I thought wasn’t bad. I did push for a two year service plan but they wouldn’t go for that. Anyway hopefully happy motoring from now on. Any thoughts on the tool kit guys?

Hi Gareth! I have just done this and the noise is still there, I think it might be the alternator, it’s hard to tell as it’s so !Removed! tight in the engine bay!

If interested - you should be able to request a copy of the build record from the VIN, from Audi or one of their dealers.

From my quick scan, I think they are serious about this, and have a September deadline for comment, and it will then go forward towards possible legislation during next year. I think anyone with modified vehicles will need to take notice of this, rather than perhaps take a view of ‘oh yeah’. Will trendy pop-pop exhaust notes come under the same umbrella? Quite possible. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, I guess your description is taken as an in-motion symptom. What happens if you get the car up to operating temperature preferably after say a 5+ mile run, then at standstill, increase the revs and hold to a steady 3k and check the existence of any noises with clutch pedal not-depressed and depressed? Regards, Gareth.

I’ve noticed recently that I’m getting a whirring noise between about 2-4 rpm when the cars up to temp. The warmer it gets the more noticeable it is. I thought it might be something to do with the drive train etc but when it’s happening, if I disengage the clutch and the engine drops to idle the noise goes away. Bring the clutch pedal back up again, noise returns? Sounds abit like a wheel bearing

Hi thats chain driven therefore you have the possibility of chain stretch or guide wear which can only be corrected by replacement. Steve.

Hi Steve, Sorry, I have the CRTD engine A7 2017.

Hi Gareth/Cliff, this was always coming the Germans tried it back in the late 70s with type approval on car parts within Europe, you were obliged to use manufacturer parts, that went out of the window when everybody and their dog worked out that the manufacturers had changed their practise and were not making the parts anymore but buying from people like Bosch Febi LUK Hella, the list is endless, therefore what was the difference between a Bosch part direct and a Bosch part with a VAG Logo, nothing except the Bosch direct part was about half price, this will not be as easy as they have a more than valid point, I love my cars but am realistic enough to take on board that Nox 1 is deadly and has to be reduced as it has been by the manufacturer, I agree in principle to what they propose as it drives me mad with the remap brigade who will happily try and belittle those who don't have their vehicles mapped as being dull and stupid, think of all the extra power you could have, then I have to smile when they end up on this forum bleating for help with problems of their own making which no one can help with because the vehicles been modified or as they put it improved, what price improvement, prime example being the poster with the A1 that had low compression and running problems because of a melted piston, after wheedling out of him you begin to wonder why anyone in their right mind would remap an engine that has a supercharger and inline turbo fitted and a history of melting pistons on its own without the aid of a remap, we have to get past a basic ignorance of what this process does to your car long term. Steve.

Have a look at it, tell us what make it is, and whether it looks well used or newish.

Ha ha .... Found the data label in the boot !!! So it's a 130kw 2.0 tdi (CGLC) and a bunch of other codes.

Hi all, Recently bought a 2012 62 plate Q5 S Line + TDI Quattro and thought I'd decode the VIN to work out it's details. But, 4th, 5th and 6th digits are all Zs, so not able to work out Series and Engine. Couple of on line decoders can't work it out and the WSM Spec guide doesn't have Zs. WAUZZZ8R1DA00xxxx This the same on the reg doc, label on the bulkhead and dash and in the service book. Reg doc lists Variant as XCGLCQ1 and Version as QM6B2023R8R7C7MGEM1 and Engine number as CGLC188xxx Any ideas ?

could be just an o2 sensor or a could be a vacuum leak but check with a scanner

Many thanks

If this https://bridgeclassiccars.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/07/Regulating-environmental-impact-of-in-use-emissions-of-road-vehicles-GOV.UK_-1.pdf is the proposal you refer to Gareth, then pages 3 and 8 will require old vehicles to be maintained and operated to the same emissions standards as existed at the time of manufacture. In other words any modifications that increase emissions will be illegal, as will natural wear and tear. That's going to be quite a blow to many drivers.

That’s a good question. I can phone up the dealership and ask them as I guess there would be no other way of knowing ?

As I understand it, a proposal document was issued on 6th July, aimed at better respecting emission requirements for used vehicles. Please don’t take the following as gospel, but a brief scan suggests, cat backs, DPF, Adblue deletes will be taken as unacceptable since the vehicle has been modified from the manufacturer’s construction. It is likely that any mapping of ECUs will fall under the same umbrella. If passed, this could be implemented as early as mid/late 2027. Anyone, who has had such modifications carried out, would be advised to study the document carefully, and tender your objections - by September? Regards, Gareth.

Perhaps a daft question Abeer, but was the battery renewed shortly before you bought it? I ask since if that new battery wasn’t coded to the car, then the alternator is likely to keep overcharging the new battery, eventually cooking it, but meanwhile resulting in it having an increased voltage over approx. 14.5V - at which point the EPS would become too assisted. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks all!

After I purchased the car, I noticed the cars alignment was out so went back to Audi to get it fixed. They confirmed it was slightly out of alignment and they had fixed it. Other than that no other work has been done to the car. Only got it about 5/6 weeks ago

The change to steering alignment would have been felt immediately at the steering wheel. That the feel changed some weeks later means something else is causing the problem. Power steering should always reduce as the speed rises in order to retain the "feel" or resistance to steering input. It sounds to me as if that reduction is not happening, so unless you can correlate some other alteration to the car to time of the light steering as Gareth suggests, I suspect a control fault that needs electronic diagnosis. I don't know if OBDeleven would do the job. VCDS is the usual recommendation for a fully functional code reader amongst those who know about these things. As a side note can I ask why you changed the alignment? It is normally only done after a tyre change, new suspension parts, or a crash.