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Actually Steve, meant to ask if you could recommend a half decent antenna? I'm not sure where to start.... Cheers

Cheers, a couple places to start looking.. . The person I bought it off said it was always cutting out when she had it so I think it's likely a fault rather than bad signal. I'll update if I get any results. 👍

Legend mate thanks for taking the time to tell me this. It Gives me a heads up about the reality of buying 2016-17-18 models. Just going to apply everything you’ve said if i get a Q7 or similar with the 3.0 Tdi

Hello, my A3 gives no sound at all from rear speakers. I think it has an original factory subwoofer/amp in the back inside left wall. The amp clicks when turning radio on and off but gives no bass. What can I do to fix these problems? 1997 Audi A3 1.8T 8L Edit: after tweaking with fader button the subwoofer actually seems to give some bass

A Google search should come up with more. Hope the forum is being of help to you Peter. Regards, Gareth.

It's about getting the engine to operating temperature and a decent run every so often. Short runs would be 10-15 miles. If this is for urban commuting, that's when you get into issues, start-stop, etc. At some point the EGR valve will clog - that's inevitable on diesels. In addition AdBlue is known to weak point, as it uses integral tank with pump and sender. I've started using Forte anti-crystal on every AdBlue top up. You can also use Forte fuel conditioner (for diesels) straight in the fuel tank on a quarter full and drive it like you stole it for 15-20 mins. The fuel filter needs changed, so do this every 20k miles. Helps clean injectors, etc. Also treat the car to premium diesel. Older Euro 4 diesels could be used for short run journeys, but eventually intake manifolds get carbon build up, or sticky vanes on the turbo. Euro 6 - the engine is regenerating anyway, which is where the engine heats up to effectively burn off soot via DPF. These cars tend to be sensor heavy, so irrespective of whether you're spanner handy, I'd advocate getting VCDS (via Gendan), as the car will store logged faults. Main dealer will charge you £200 minimum for scan. In fact - it's worth even checking any perspective new purchase. Logged or stored faults will remain unless cleared. Usually referred to as DTCs. If you are spanner handy - then things like retracting rear electro-mechanic handbrake, priming fuel pump and relearning motors such as panoramic sunroof are useful to have. Audi also use ODIS dealer level software. Controls programming features, security, etc. I know for example that even Golf Mk 8 - you can't service rear brakes without it. Sign of things to come I'm afraid. As chains and tensioners are at the back of the engine - then it's an engine out job to replace, along with plastic guides. Should be good for the life of the engine, but where they get camshaft sprocket wear or chain slap is on cars that were on long-service regimes (up to 18k miles) between oil changes. Look carefully at the service history and avoid anything that's not been serviced at up to 10-12k mile intervals. No oil can maintain viscosity and lubricating qualities at that sort of mileage. Audi will tell you different, but this was brought in to satisfy fleet managers trying to reduce costs. Most of these cars were 3-4 years old on finance deals, so bill is normally picked up by next unsuspecting owner down the line. Tiptronic boxes do have a ZF service kit - so if not done I would get this done at 60-80k miles for peace of mind. Front and rear diffs usually good up to 100k miles.

Just a small update, while waiting for the ecu to arrive, nearly all wiring that is not required has been removed. The ecu will go behind the glovebox as thats where the engine wiring will come through. The column switches will probably be removed, as the new switches will be on the new steering wheel.

Hi Kyle, I just filled it up to the max line, started the car and let it run for few minutes, then topped it up a bit more. Took it for a 5 mile drive and checked the level after, let it cool down and topped it up again. (keep monitoring for a few days after) Hope this helps

Hi mate some good info on there, thanks for the help Im prepared for the maintenance costs. on the diesel side with the DPF filter etc. do you have any advice on mileage should i be doing to avoid carbon build up. I wont be using the vehicle daily but im prepared to do a long trip at least once a month to prevent particle issues. What is a short run by a diesel engine standard? once again thanks Owen

Hi fit a new DAB antenna, loads on line that are better than the oe but first check the antenna on the roof as they often suffer with corrosion and don't work properly, my car was the same and I replaced all of the usual suspects with only a little improvement so I had convinced myself it must be my area, but the Passat I have's a similar set up but the only time it cuts out is when I get an electric bus along side me. Steve.

Do your neighbours have similar FM radio problems? If so it is likely the matter is just poor signal strength which you can do nothing about. DAB is widely variable across the whole country, which is why FM has been retained long after it was supposed to be dropped.

Oh the joys of a failing battery … even that isn’t simple anymore 🤔😂

Sorry, not sure. I do not think the engine shape has changed so the earlier top cover may fit. If you know some one with the earlier model it is worth trying to see.

ooof! £200 is wild for what it actually is. I did purchase the part linked and have been running it for a few months now with no issue. It just stings when you see the alternate part for the later versions of this engine going for £25 - £30 for well known aftermarket manufacturers. Either way I hope it helps with OP!

Hi the part you have found is incredibly cheap for a genuine part, try Audi at about £200 and thats if you can get one from them. Steve.

Hi Cliff P2002 is like the tax man it won't go away unless you pay for it, just discovered Jimmy O Riley's latest Ultra posting whereby the code is present and can't be cleared due to some Clown trying to delete Low/High pressure DPF software so even after cleaning the code won't go and the DPF won't regenerate, he apparently now has the facility to re flash the ECU with the standard software and that seems to work but only after cleaning, he also states that the problem will always return because of the design, believe me it always came back on my car and that had practically every emissions part renewed at some point, they are just money pits. Steve.

Hi, checked Ebay and FB marketplace. I cannot see anything in reasonable condition/price ratio. Posted a request to Parts Gateway, still no response. Any other parts breaker sites you can recommend?

Thank you..

Where have you looked so far then Peter? Have you also registered your ‘want’ on some of the online car breaker link sites?

Many thanks for joining Eric. You are very welcome. Regards, Gareth.

Hi everyone, just joined and wanted to say hello. I've been around forums for a while but finally decided to sign up here to learn more, share experiences, and be part of the discussions. Looking forward to connecting with everyone. Thanks for having me.

Q7s from this era were primarily V6 TDi engines in 218PS and 272PS variants. SQ7 used V8 diesel. Think there was also 2.0TFSI model, but relatively rare and given it's thirst to shift the best part of 2 tonnes, it wouldn't be economical. Some also use plug in battery (E-tron), potentially gives you additional 30 miles. I know that can cause a bit of grief if it goes wrong. All paired with Tiptronic 8-speed boxes. Like everything, the diesel models are all chain drive, and servicing is crucial. That means oil changes every 8-10k miles or less if previous owner was particularly fastidious. V6 engine is a solid workhorse. I've never driven one, but have the 272PS engine in my A4 Allroad and would be the one I would choose. 600Nm of torque and will return 50mpg if driven sensibly, less in a Q7 though I'd expect the Q7 to go through tyres and brakes, so factor that in. Can also pull impressive 2800kg if there's a towbar. These engines don't tend to use oil. However as it's diesel, Euro 6, then you are into AdBlue, DPF, EGR, cats, etc. Better to have a car that's done regular annual mileage. These engines don't like short runs, or you're into emission territory and potential carbon build up. Suspension - standard multi-link or adaptive air suspension from what I understand. 100k plus mileage, you're likely into replacing bushes if not already done.

Full piece for a rs4 b8 front passenger with shocker spring knuckle connector and drc pipe with the shocker just the pipe is £300 I’m looking for £200 for the full thing bargain for someone

Gents, I am looking for second hand rear support frame - 4F0505235AJ (as per LLL Parts) - in good condition - any links to a reasonable cheap one?

DAB radio.