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Thanks!

No probs at all.

What engine does the car have?

No probs at all. I fully appreciate why you want to. Best way To do it is with a hairdryer/heat gun and fishing wire between the badge and boot once glue heated up.

Sorry. I have one on each side window boot area (avant) and one below the rear number plate

I see what you mean Steve thanks

Sorry I worded wrong I have the stickers where to place them on the car thanks

Can anyone tell me the part number for the above. My panel has come away from the body but I've found that it was like that when I bought the car 3mnths ago and it had been temp. Stuck in place. The bottom clips have broken on the painted part of the arch and Audi says it needs a replacement. As an alternative can the painted part be glued/ bonded to the part the fixed to the car body.

Good Evening All Last Year i wrote about my 2011 A4 with 58K miles on the clock that required a litre of all every few hundred miles. After having a quote from Audi for parts cost of £4K & Labour £4K i have decided to carry on. However just recently one of the cylinders is "coaking" up the spark plug every week or so and the engime is mis-firing. My mechanic has put new plugs and points for this cylinder but it keeps on happening. I think it will have to be sold but i need to keep it running for a few months to save up for an A3 Does anyone have any ideas for me and my mechanic to try I am really fed up ... I cant believe a car with so few miles is so problematic Thanks in advance of everyones help

Hi, no, I'm saying I got it FOC from a trusted source.

My 2018 RS5 as started displaying the sports differential fault. It doesn’t display whilst running in comfort mode but the warning appears when in dynamic. I have the car booked in for a diagnostic check next week. As anyone else had this same issue?

Thanks for the advice

Hi did you have this battery coded, if not the BEM will continue to charge at the same rate as the old battery which in record time will cook the new battery and kill it stone dead, seen a few like this in my time and its hard to convince people of the importance of battery coding, half an amp is not an unusual amount and if the battery is in good condition its sustainable, the batteries are massive, damage wise 10-11 volts will kill it. the Adblue control unit is b@ll@cks they either work or they don't as for powering down the whole car never does this as there are alarms, central locking. infotainment all in a low power sleep mode until you hit the unlocking button.

I do t think it does cliff as it'd just be a visual check.

They should be available in the shop.

It shouldn't devalue it, but some people see it as modified. I appreciate it isn't, but Jo public don't know that if you see what I mean

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Hi I've recently bought a S3 2011. So far so good just wanted to say hello 👋🏻

Hi Is there anyone un the Bristol area that can program Aux in my RNSE please. I believe VAGCOM is required ?

Thats fair enough but connectors, lights are clean dry, no evidence of overheating, corrosion etc. Mystery continues

Hi Steve, that is very interesting. The original battery, that came with the car suddenly drained (suspiciously a week after a Start/Stop system fault error appeared). I just thought this battery was at end of life after ~8 years. I jumped the car and went to a garage and had a Monbat 12V AGM fitted (but not coded). You are most likely correct on the brand and lack of coding here causing an issue. This battery was completely dead after the 2 week timeframe parked up. A battery shouldn't drain this fast! The car was dead so I had to replace the battery myself with a Ducellier 12V AGM. I got my mechanic to clear errors caused by disconnecting the battery and to code it in. When I keep driving the car daily I have no issues. Battery stays between 12V and 12.7V. When I'm not driving for a few days I am topping up with a trickle charger. This is not a solution long term so looking to change the adblu control unit to resolve the issue (if what the main dealers mechanic tells me is correct!). Your point though is interesting though. You said the power spike is a mechanism of self diagnostic for the car. If this spike is always there how does it not drain the battery if it is parked for a period of time? Do you know what voltage level the battery voltage can drop to before the battery is permanently damaged? Thanks

I had similar with my number plate lights, one side was working but dim and not the other, changed the bulbs and both didn't work. Checked the cable gland, no breaks. Defurred the brass contacts and still no light. Stripped the boot lid to remove the switch. Refitted the the lights with unit in hand. Stuck a 12v incandescent brake bulb onto the connector and it lit up when pedal was pushed. This tricked the bcm so it got full voltage to the switch, then refitted the switch and both lights were working. I still think it was green crustyness on the contacts.

Where is the best place for the audi owners club stickers thanks

It's the power speed triangle

Does it devalue the car thanks