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Hi, its Alfie 6 again, and I now intend to inspect the front calipers. Before I do so I would be pleased if anybody could direct me to an explosive diagram of the caliper unit. Having worked on previous calipers, there appears to be a lack of support for the pads, having only the outside spring to stop rattle of the outer, and the cone one which goes into the piston? Please note that my car is an 2008, which is different from the later models, which has an over lapping external spring. Any help would be much appreciated.

Hello Mark, Wondered if you have now come out of this unfortunate situation with assurances that the highlighted issues have been resolved -and without damage to your wallet? Kind regards, Gareth.

Have you progressed this matter during the month Andy?

Any update for us Tom?

Are you going to return to the form Sam, to update on the questions posed?

Hello Ian, As far as I’m aware, there aren’t any ‘Workshop Manuals’ now being published- apart from what you might have found as downloads, or on subscription systems such as Autodata. Kind regards, Gareth.

I wasn’t referring to whether the noise differs hot or cold, but simply whether the car’s ability to start easily from cold or hot has changed-?

Ayoop folks, we took her out for a run (breakdown services unknowingly on standby!) and put her through her paces on comfort setting, so roundabouts, fast exits from junctions etc and all seems good......I kinda wonder what's going to sulk next, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. In the meantime, the fuel gauge isn't working and I sometimes can get it to work by folding down the offside rear passenger seat, or placing something heavy on the seat cushion. I wonder if this means a wiring fault as opposed to a failed(ing) sender unit. As I rarely use the performance, 600 miles between refills is what I go with, but the range data would be nice to have again.....thanks again everyone.

Hi guys can anyone suggest a part no. checking site I'm trying to confirm parts for a front brake upgrade on my b3 16vq I've got the twin pot calipers but have been told I also need the hubs from a 90q so got hold of 2 part no DE 895258 & 7 k just want to make sure they're correct before they're refurbed thanks

Unfortunately it hasn’t made any difference whether I start it cold or hot. I’m at ends meet. I was thinking the N80 valve.

Wowsers that's a big saving. Thanks for the write up Dave I'll pin your post so it'll be easier for other q7 owners to find

Think it takes a reading from the gearbox

Wife drove the car today when the alternator not charging message displayed on the dashboard and the steering got heavy. Crank shaft pulley rubber dampener had sheared off throwing the auxiliary belt off. Quite easy to replace it’s held on with 8 multi spine bolts but needs a pry bar and a gentle work on both sides to get the old one off. You need a slightly bigger multi spline socket for the auxiliary belt tensioner to pull it back to get the bolt on and can all be done from above. Quite a common thing to happen so hope this helps somebody in the future. Quite pricey if you try getting one off the internet as euro car parts list it at £339 but if you ring them for a price with a trade account it’s £96.

OK Charlie, Changing auxiliary belt and tensioner was unlikely to cure this issue unless they were at fault. Other possibility:- mixture too weak. Has the cold and/or hot starting varied at all since this noise has occurred? Regards, Gareth.

Didn’t work, changed auxiliary belt and tensioner too and that didn’t work

Ok that's doable cheers

A blast of compressed air should shift any crud/water/fuel in open-ended lines. If you don't have compressed air I don't know what to suggest.

Cheers for that seems straight forward enough to get the tank out, it's metal. Any suggestions on cleaning fuel lines & pipes.

Where have you tried so far? You could try eBay, or the old fashioned way and Google local breakers yards that might have a VAG group vehicle with the same engine.

It’s the fuel pipe quick release connector

What, in words, is this spare part or connection you need? We may be able to suggest a temporary fix until the real thing arrives.

If the fuel tank is steel there's the potential for a lot of rust to have formed in it during 12 years of inactivity. If it is possible, which I do not know, I would want to remove the tank and vigourously slosh a gallon of fuel around before pouring it from the filler neck, then repeat until no more rust is seen. The fuel guage will have to be removed so that is the ideal opportunity to test it. If the tank is plastic there will naturally be no rust, but there may well be condensed water which needs to be removed somehow. I doubt there is a drain plug so maybe a syphon pump down the filler neck would do the job.

Hi anyone got any recommendations on where to get spare parts quick? I need to get a part before next week and the part I need which is 04e133723dg will take 10-14 days to come I don’t actually need the whole of that part just the quick release connection but apparently that’s not something you can buy

It's only condensation and nothing to worry about. Water vapour is formed during combustion which then condenses in contact with cold steel. It will be worse in cold weather and will disappear when the exhaust system is hot.

Hi guys I own a 1991 B3 16v quattro that's not moved for about 12 years and I've decided it's time to get the old girl back on the road, my first point of call is the fuel system so new pump and filter but would like to clear the system of all the old stuff. What would be the best way to go about this before I start on the other fluids. Thanks