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Report! got a little bit better. Driving “nomaly” like my wife etc don’t feel anything but I can still get it to vibrate in certain speeds and applying brake lightly, I force it to feel it. will do the same procedure on front brake in a couple of weeks and see otherwise change everything because I cannot have the slightest vibration or I go crazy 🤪😂

Hi I'm want to quickly test that fuel is not only reaching each injector but they don't leak and the spray pattern is ok. I did this some years ago but old age and lost info has left me needing my memory jogged 🙄 so after popping each injector and resting them in seperate jars I know I have to pull the relay and use the bridging tool then after raising the flap on the metering head I can time and measure but which relay and what position to put the bridge is where I've gone blank. Cheers

To be honest, I didn't get around to doing this. I had new tyres fitted and it did seem a bit better afterwards so don't know if the old ones were out of balance. But the problem was still there. However, recently it seems to have improved. I've been on some long journeys and do, if it's safe, try and brake hard once in a while as I read somewhere that some deposits can build up so it can help clean up the surfaces. Might be worth giving that a go one evening or early bank holiday morning. I find it hard to believe that cleaning up that surface is going to make a difference, especially given how the symptoms for me aren't always consistent with speed/braking power.

So did it today on rear brakes a lot of corrosion and rust especially on left side. Pictures from right side feels a bit better but not 100% Should I do this on front brakes aswell?

Hi, if you talk about the ones mounted on the radiator then yes, they are not swtiching off...also, they always spin when AC is ON. are you saying this is not normal behavior?

George. I suspect the electric cooling fans are not switching off when the engine temperature drops.

Hi all Thanks for the feedback I bought it privately from a Facebook market place post. Was a good general post said he put an MOT for a no show and then reposted it he didn’t mention in the advert about the mileage being 999.999 on the 2017 MOT but said was a typo. I didn’t pay the world for it and runs ok to be fair hasn’t overheated since but havnt drove it hard and gonna work through the jobs to get it running better. I’m going to pop it to a garage up the road for a once over but unsure whether I’m better finding someone who more clued up on Audi TT rather than a standard mechanic. Could do with someone checking the MAF sensor and a few other bits to rule out a faulty sensor or pipe. Also gonna look at replacing the clocks whether that be a reverb or new and recoded. I have also read that the diverters are problematic am I worth changing that out for a dump valve or something a bit more reliable Thanks again Geraint

David. It might help if you gave a more detailed explanation of what you mean by lumpy power delivery, along with conditions at which it happens. Conditions like engine speed, hot or cold, load, service history, state of tyres, etc.

Gary. I have no doubt there is an electronic fault of some kind and therefore the error messages are all meaningless. I suggest you find an auto electrician.

Hello, my 2013 Audi A4 2.0TDI 163PS has this weird issue. It takes around 3-5km for the engine to reach 90celsius, if i drive outside city few km then i go back into driving 1-2-3gear (city conditions) engine temperature drops slightly (to 85-88), if i Idle in neutral 5mins after engine ran constantly at 90celsius, the engine temperature drops to 80celsius, also if i drive on highway (150kmph) then is a portion of highway with 80speed limit it does the same...is this normal for this engine or i have to look into it? weather conditions: 12-15 celsius i recently changed the thermostat and the coolant (thought that might solve the issue). thank you.

Welcome Adam, The light could be as a result of numerous components, so it’s simply a guessing game prior to a diagnostic assessment. Re. Outstanding recall:- If it were mine, I would not (in caps) pursue this. It is possible that it was as a result of emission recalls, and this forum has been dotted with horror stories in the past, following actioning these recalls. Your car, but a definite DON’T DO IT from me. Please let us know how you get on with the diagnostic check. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Did you buy this from a dealer? If so, you should have redress, but I would notify them by e-mail, otherwise they may wriggle out of it, on the basis that you have been fiddling with it without reference to them.

Hi can anyone recommend where to purchase a genuine front passenger door actuator or good after market one. So it still works with the remote central locking. The last one I purchased has just failed aftermarket unit whic did not register/flash when locked on the wing mirror. Thanks

Hi. I'm a new owner of an Audi A6 quattro 2010. I've had it for a week now. After 200miles the CEL came on, stayed on for 3days and went off again, now it's back on. I've cleaned the fuel cap sealing area. I'm waiting to hear back from a garage for diagnostic service on Wednesday, but are there any other reasons it may light. It's nearly at 125000miles. And the dvla website notifies me of an outstanding recall, which I'll arrange to have done, but I don't what it is. I'll introduce myself in the newbie section. thanks in advance, - I expect this question has been asked before. 😁

i think a visit to an auto electrician would be a good move at this stage.Greg

very nice car andy,best of luck with it.

Damn. Was not the connector.

I feel another wheel post photo is in order. I’ve also now removed the ring decals

Looking at any advice on slightly lumpy power delivery under power, not sure if it is the tyres, fuel pump, any ideas or checks i could do to maybe fix this? its not bad just a little annoying sometimes.

Hello Neil Our alternator stopped completely so battery didbt work. Rescue service guy charged the battery but it only lasted about 10 minutes at the very most. We only turned engine only to help park in drive way, which again the car only drove for 5 mins, by that time the battery had drained. The alternator wasnt doing anything. Hope that helps. Hardip

AUDI A3 / S3 / 2018 Sportback Quattro AWD Current Mileage 18,000 I’m new to the forum, and are looking for any advice on an issue I’m having with my car. The car randomly cuts out while driving. And brings up numerous dash cluster messages. I’ll attach pictures to show these. The car will let u start it sometimes, after cutting out. And sometimes will let you carry on your journey faultless. Sometimes it will turn off a few times. Loose power and power steering control. Sometimes the car won’t let u take it out of, Park Mode. Pop up radio randomly goes up and down with out touching a button. Scanned the car myself, and it was giving me the below codes. C111204 / Haldex clutch pump defective / I’ve replaced this with a new pump and oil and primed. Just in case this might have been the issue. I’ve had the, ECU sent off for tests, and came back with no reported faults. U112100 / Can signal Terminal 15 / No messages / Data Bus Know messages. U112300 / Data Bus Signal Reception Things ive changed 1. Battery & re-coded it with, OBELEVEN 2. All Relays & fuses 3. Haldex clutch pump, oil & re-primed 4. ECU been checked. id appreciate any help or input on resolving this problem. its been in the, Audi garage for diagnostic, but wouldn’t fault on them. Either on the test drive. They would prefer it to come in to them has a complete no starter. Which it’s not doing. They want £ 144 Per Hour to try different tests to see if they can find the problem. With the answer not being very convincing. Saying they could do 8 x Hrs on the car, and not find out. They say it’s possibly a, CamBus communication problem. or wire harness problem. But can’t be completely sure. Many Thanks, Gary

When this happened to me it lasted about 20 miles but that was having the aircon on etc

Hi All 🙂, My 2021 Audi A3 has recently developed an annoying knocking sound which seems to be coming from around the area circled in the attached photo. It's definitely coming from above the timing belts, and pulleys etc. Performance isn't affected, but obviously something isn't right. Has anyone any idea what this could be?. VID_20250524_135636.mp4

Hi, Just purchased my first Audi 2.0 TDI Black Edition in Daytona Grey (with Tech Pack and Comfort Sound Pack) 33k miles (picking up next week) So if anyone has some hints and tips, what to look out for and things on the entertainment system i need to look at, I'm more than welcome for pointers. Obviously, when you join a car forum all you see is a list of "How to fix" or "New issues with" as the main post's which always makes nervous reading when you have just put some hard cash down. Is there any main things i should look out for in the first month? and if anyone has a standard service cost at audi or 3rd party garage prices that would be useful to note. My wife thinks its a bit old man car, is it really?, I love the look!! Anyway i will be reading through lots of old posts to see what I have I got myself into..

Hello Geraint, The forum is here to help you in any way it can. Please keep in touch with us. Regards, Gareth.

Thank you Gareth, I will try and repair myself 🙂👍