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Hi all, Sorry I've tried to find if this topic has been discussed before but couldn't find it. My car isn't communicating with my phone app so I currently cannot remotely control the climate control, see my current battery charge etc... Below are the following steps I have tried to resolve it: Delete cache from app in my phone. Log out and back into the app on my phone. Uninstall and reinstall the app on my phone. Fault persists. All of the data is stuck on the same numbers despite completely reinstalling the app (like battery charge is stuck on 69% and hasn't updated for weeks). Reset the MMI by holding the volume button for 20 seconds. Tried to unlink my account from my MMI in the car (This failed giving me an error message on the MMI screen). I have logged the issue with Audi MMI Technical support. However, they simply just logged what I have tested. It has been with 3rd tier support for a few weeks now. Getting nowhere with it... With step 5 failing, this tells me it's an issue with the car and not with the app. It's as though the SIM card module isn't communicating or is frozen. I have looked into temporarily removing the fuse for the sim card module (in the hope this might reset it). However, the fuse numbers don't seem to match up to what is in the manual (or online) so I didn't do this step. Does anyone know if removing and reinserting the fuse for the SIM card module will resolve the issue? I've heard there's a backup battery for the SIM card module. Which fuse is it? I have a UK RHD vehicle. Or could it be something completely different? It's doing my head in!!! 😂😂 Any help will be massively appreciated. My car is a 2020 e-tron Technik 50 Quattro. Thanks!!!

No, not used it personally. According to LLL parts, it is a subframe bolt (item 4) in this diagram). However I see its used on suspension bolt too across VAG range. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/n90924103/bolt-hex-hd-with-pin-combi-n90924103 Anyway back to your dilemma. Have you tried https://spareto.com/products/volkswagen-ag-bolt/n90956803 Based in Estonia I think. Doesn't say they are out of stock so ypu might be in luck. Be aware you'll probably pay tax at post office, thanks to Brexit. Dealt with the same ordering BMW parts via Hubauer Shop (Germany).

Looking for recommendations for a cleaning product for Matt black exhaust pipes on a 2024 rs4 avant. Most products I see are for stainless steel exhausts. I asked in Halfords yesterday but the 2 staff had no idea as never been asked that question before. Thanks in advance!

Hi Richard, thanks for the suggestion. I do have ETKA and ElsaWin, but I can't work out which vehicle N90924103 originally belongs to or find the illustration for it. I found N90924103 on PartSouq, but it appears to be used elsewhere in the suspension rather than on the subframe. Have you personally used N90924103 as a replacement for N90956803 on a B6 A4 subframe, or are you suggesting it because the dimensions and thread match? My original N90956803 bolts are torqued to 110 Nm + 90° in ElsaWin, so I just want to make sure the replacement bolt has the same torque to yield characteristics before I cut 10 mm off it and use it. Thanks.

It went back to him twice, he thought it was a defective radar unit. So I had that checked by a local specialist that I know & trust, he confirmed it, so new one sourced, Swapped, coded & seperate re-aligned. Still doesn’t play full time. Audi retrofits only works Tues - Thurs most weeks & he’s 120 miles away from me, so a full day, early start & £50 return trip in fuel to get it to him! I am cross to say the least! he professes to fit the Adaptive cruise as a retrofit but it seems his skill & knowledge doesn’t extend to fault finding! But he’s messed this up completely. Went to him on a recommend too. I’m pretty certain the issue is in the wiring loom close to the RH unit, I’m just after any insights into any other connector in the engine bay that side for the radar unit. It’s only 3 cores, so once I get the air filter etc out the way & can get at the entire loom, I can just break into it & do a continuity check on the loom to the pins in the radar unit connector. I’m certain there’s a ‘stretch’ break in it somewhere close to the unit connector, where he disconnected it to remove the number, I just need to prove it then find it, replacing, repairing &/or extending those 3 cores is a simple job once I can get in there.

Is that torque to yield though Gareth? TTY fasteners are designed to stretch once torqued to final specification, whereas high tensile bolts can theoretically be reused. I know the frustration of searching for a part number and going down every route to source, but if the same characteristics of the bolt was used, I don’t foresee an issue. Your idea to add a nut is good, simply to clean the thread on removing once cut, then dispose.

Hi guys. New to the forum but have had VW/Audi for a few years now and have just bought a 2014 S3. Never had a 4wd/quattro before. Got it for reasonable money as there is a noise in the rear which I am pretty sure is the rear diff. Doesn’t seem to be a wheel bearing as noise doesn’t change with change of direction and it seems to get a bit louder when I let off throttle/coast. Again never diagnosed anything with a 4wd system so from reading forums that seems to equate to possibly rear diff. Question is will a rear diff from a same year A3 1.8 FSI Quattro fit? Part numbers are the same and letter at the end is. I intend to drain a little bit of diff oil and see if any metal in it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and looking forward to sharing any experiences or knowledge I have along the way.

So simply return it to them to correct. If you fiddle with it they can claim it’s your fault. Regards, Gareth.

Great and helpful find Richard. Buy an M12 x 1.5 nut and screw that on and leave it on, before cutting the bolt to size. Dress the cut end and remove the nut - that will aid thread cleaning. Regards, Gareth.

So the key information for this part is its M12 x 1.5 pitch x 120mm. Tough times call for tough measures. Could N90924103 be used instead? As far as I can see the only difference is it’s 130mm. It’s a subframe bolt, so will be torque to yield and have the strength characterises of the original bolt. Remove 10mm off end, clean thread, etc.

Thank you! I will try that!

It was done by Audi retrofits in Slough.

Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone can help because I'm completely stuck at this point. I have a 2002 Audi A4 B6 Avant 1.8T with the AVJ engine and an FPS gearbox, and I'm currently replacing the oil pan myself. Unfortunately, the job requires the front subframe to be lowered or removed, and according to Audi the front subframe stretch bolt N90956803 must be replaced. The problem is that I cannot find this bolt anywhere. I understand that N90956803 superseded the older part number N90956801, but neither part seems to be available. Over the last few days, I have contacted TPS, local Audi dealerships, Flying Spares and suppliers in both Europe and the United States, but nobody appears to have any stock. I even placed an order with ECS Tuning in America, but they would not accept my payment method and the order had to be cancelled. As this is a torque-to-yield stretch bolt, I understand that Audi recommends replacing it rather than reusing the old one, which is why I am reluctant to continue the job without finding the correct part. Has anybody here replaced the oil pan on an AVJ powered A4 B6 without completely removing the subframe? Is there another method to complete the job? Alternatively, does anybody know where genuine N90956803 bolts can still be purchased, whether in the UK, Europe or elsewhere? At this point, I genuinely don't know what to do next. The car is currently off the road, I can't complete the repair and the whole situation has become extremely stressful. Any help or advice would be hugely appreciated. Thank you.

If anyone with VCDS close to you, then that would be the next logical step. A Yuasa 9000 AGM is a decent battery, but for all you know there’s a parasitic drain, who knows. Any remedial work since then, such as dash-cam install? They should last minimum of 5 years. Bear in mind, visiting a main dealer to diagnose will be the same as renewing the battery. You can test battery with cheap multimeter. Should be around 12.4-12.6v with car not started, and running over 14v when alternator kicks in.

I doubt you will just find the bulb holder on its own, but just replace the rear light. Suspect original was made by Valeo or Hella. Get part number off the original. Now EBay will be full of dodgy parts, so look for genuine Audi OEM, not some LED retrofit made in China. With the part number you can search for the part.

Hello Dave, Did you do this conversion yourself, or did you get someone to do it for you? Regards, Gareth.

Yuasa 9000 AGM

Thanks Frank, OK, but I just wonder how you are going to rectify this issue, even if someone else has the same problem. Couple this with the dealer being suspicious of you having fiddled with it, and you could find that essential warranty has suddenly become invalid - so good luck with that. Naming and shaming your nearest dealerships is not something this forum encourages, since this forum is open to all - members and non members alike, and the dealerships you name and shame are not able to to reciprocate with their views. Your call, but if you want us to remove your comments then just ask us to do so. If you are not bothered to do so, then they can remain on the proviso that they are solely your comments, and have been discouraged by this forum. Ok, to get to a a dealer of your preference will lead to you being inconvenienced, but there is little the forum or its members can do about that Frank. Regards, Gareth.

Good afternoon all. My 2004 Audi A4 Avant is due for its MOT end of August. My mechanic can't find a right rear bulb holder. The existing one is on its last legs, rusted, with only the indicator bulb still working, brake light and rear light are not working, even with new bulbs. My mechanic has tried to find a new bulb holder, including at auto recycling places, but in vain. He says the car is too old. I love my car and find it ridiculous if I have to throw it away just because of a bulb holder. I would be grateful for any ideas!

Ahh, get back home in about 2 hours. Will have a look then. 👍🏻

Morning can I and if so how change from d2s to 3ds headlights audi a6 c6 4f allroad 2008 thanks

Hi Gareth I agree, it would be so much simpler to head off to a Main Dealer to sort it out. Two reasons I havent done so yet. Firstly, I thought someone here might have experienced the same sort of thing and had a quick fix. And secondly, it's a faff to organise an appointment with Audi and have to leave the car there for some hours. I'm not a fan of either of my 2 local dealers, one in Southampton which is about 12 miles away from where I live and the other at Poole, about 30 miles away. Not ever dealt with their Service Departments but if they are anything like ther Sales, I havent been too impressed over the last 20 years of owning Audis. Everything thing you fear about Car Sales.....and Car Salesmen....and they have the lot in spades ! Flash, too eager to make a deal and most with very little knowledge of the product they are trying to sell you ! So, for me, if I want to sort it I will need to go the the supplying Dealership, Audi at Bury St.Edmunds who are family owned and for me, very impressive. However its a bit of a slog from Hampshire at the moment,especially in this heat so I will leave it for now. Many thanks for the input. Frank

Hi folks, Need to pick yr brains on this one; I had my headlights upgraded to LEDs, but that meant removing the front bumper. That did something to the radar units &/or wiring. I’ve had to replace one radar unit, which now works but there is still an intermittent ent fault in that the adaptive cruise will just randomly switch & display the error message, ‘xxxx not available, no sensor vision’. Now, I’ve check to left hand unit & plug contacts, all good, the Right unit contacts should be as it’s been swapped, However, there’s zero slack in the cable run on the right, so I’m thinking that one of the wires or connections has been strained or partially broken. So, has anyone here had to delve into that wiring loom at all? I’m wondering if there’s another connector behind the bumper, or any advice on how to check the continuity on those cores? I haven’t dived in yet, we’re away for a week now then I need the car for the next week, so I’m hoping for some insight from you guys before I dive into it in August! Cheers folks!

Hello Frank, Surely you don’t have to worry about the reason or resolution, or indeed if anyone else has the same symptoms. All you have to do is to book it into your main dealer, and request they correct the issue. Having said that, it would be good to know what the resolution turns out to be. Regards, Gareth.

Make!?