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I don't have a multimeter, but the OH may have one I can steal borrow. Otherwise I can pick one up easily enough. Instructions state to select a fuse associated with a function which can only be used when the ignition is on - usually cig lighter/heated seats etc. Can't be more than a 20amp fuse. Already found the bottom 20amp fuse is for my cig lighter/12v socket, so that should be fine. Did try some other fuses though when it didn't work, but still no luck. Didn't have the spade (negative) connected to the bodywork every time though (was just holding it), but not sure if that is the reason it won't work - if I could work out where to feed it to out of the glovebox and what to screw it to then I could rule that out...

Update in regards to my situation. Replaced the sensor with part from AUDI, and not triggering error message anymore. No need for coding either.

amazing thanks all xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Hi guys, Haven't purchased yet, but in the market for an a4 estate b8. Something I'm wondering, this model is a little pre DAB+ radio. Is it easy to swap the stock radio for a DAB system? Any recommendations? Just saying hi and thanks in advance

I did but no confirmation received! God, what an unfriendly bunch you are!!

How many times does it need to be repeated? You have to do it yourself. We do not have the power to do it for you.

Just cancel it Please. 😁

Audi dealer Simon? Size? Can we take it you don’t have one as an example? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Carrie and thanks for joining. Do you have a multi-meter to check for voltage on permanently live, or ignition- fed live fuses - whichever is recommended by the manufacturer? Connecting spade connector to bodywork? This suggests it’s an earth connector, but again check with the instructions/ manufacturer. If it is an earth, then it’s strange that it has a spade connector rather than a connector with a hole in it which can be bolted to the bodywork via. an accessible small bolt. Regards, Garet.

As I see it Roger, you are not a ‘subscription paying’ member ( please correct me if I’m wrong on that), so you don’t need to cancel anything. The solution is simple:- just don’t visit the forum unless you feel you want to help fellow members, or call upon members to help you. Simples, as our little standy up friends would say! Regards, Gareth.

So it’s no longer ride quality that dissatisfies you, but road noise. What tyre brands and types do you currently have fitted? You may find that changing wheel sizes may not give you significantly less road noise, due to the the inherent likely-less insulation on the A1.

While I am sceptical of these fuel additives, I am open to persuasion by long term results. The treatment may solve a sticking pressure switch in the short term but I question if it can solve the more fundamental problem of the exhaust system being blocked by soot, which is what the DPF switch is telling you. If the treatment fails to work I understand it is possible to induce an exhaust regeneration with VCDS or similar equipment. Others here may be able to confirm this point.

Hi all, Not been here in a while, as the convertible is behaving itself... 😆 However, the other day, the DPF light came on, along with a beep. I dealt with it as I usually do, by taking the car up the three-mile bypass at 70 in fourth gear - an Italian tune-up. This has always worked in the past, but not now... 🤔 So, I bought a bottle of this stuff... ...which arrived this morning. I've put it in the tank, but haven't taken the car out yet. If it works - huzzah! - but what advice if it doesn't? 🤔 Cheers, Mike 😎

Yes, the new battery was replaced following AUDI/VW BATTERY CODING USING VCDS. This was done a few months ago now and car has been working perfectly since(even the Start/Stop system began to kick in again as it hadn't been with my ailing battery). Latest is that I booked the car in at Audi Guildford on Monday for a diagnostic appointment(£150) and included the fault code output I posted here. I took the car out for a brief road test earlier and even after driving it quite hard(>5000 rpm), there were NO further issues, NO EPC warning light etc., so all seemed good(I wasn't driving hard when the fault happened). My opinion is that the fault was triggered by the hot weather we had yesterday in the UK, that coupled with possibly some part of the fuel system that has degraded over the past 11 years. Hopefully, Audi(Lookers) can shed some light on whether anything needs replacing. My main concern was whether the car was still drivable after yesterday and all I can say is so far so good. I'll be wary the next time I'm on a long run though 😬. Any comments ? Thanks, Richard

To update everyone, After months of issues and nothing happening I today was told to report all faults to Audi Customer Relations. They were really helpful but like everyone else their hands are tied but the more people who report faults the more chance of issues being resolved. So please all 0800 699 888 and report the faults, the more they get the more pressure it puts on Audi. Should not be paying the large amounts of money we are all paying to have these issues.

Hey all Have an annoying issue , my mmi sound stops working from time to time , i have to turn off car and unplug the leads from the amplifier in the boot for around 10 min and then reconnect and it works again . Has anybody else has this issue , is there a better way to fix this without having to unplug everything ? turning mmi off and on doesn't work . Thanks

You'll have to go into your profile and do it that way I believe.

Thanks.How do I do it though?

I hid your one and only topic a couple of hours ago so that it is invisible to members. As far as I can see you are the only person who can cancel your membership.

Can a moderator please cancel my membership and confirm Roger (membership name Riger)

Was it coded to the car? It needs to be.

I've recently bought a 2015 TT, and am trying to fit my existing Nextbase dashcam. I've bought the hardwire kit but I'm having a mare in getting it to work!! 😫 I've tried mutiple fuses (F40-CigLighter, F28-MediaPort, F17 InstrumentCluster), but nothing is giving the cam any power at all. The tap fuse is in the right location, and I'm trying it with the igition on. Also can't seem to find a good place to connect the spade connector to the bodywork - is there a way to feed it out the back of the glovebox somewhere, either to the engine bay or out to the side to get to the bodywork? Will the cam work without this being connected? Any help/suggestions/advice would be most appreciated! 🙏

If the dipstick is showing ok then I'd say it's the oil.levdl sensor at fault. You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

Please keep us posted on how you get on

Cheers thanks I have went with the dip stick. The alarm is still on