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Where have you tried so far? You could try eBay, or the old fashioned way and Google local breakers yards that might have a VAG group vehicle with the same engine.

It’s the fuel pipe quick release connector

What, in words, is this spare part or connection you need? We may be able to suggest a temporary fix until the real thing arrives.

If the fuel tank is steel there's the potential for a lot of rust to have formed in it during 12 years of inactivity. If it is possible, which I do not know, I would want to remove the tank and vigourously slosh a gallon of fuel around before pouring it from the filler neck, then repeat until no more rust is seen. The fuel guage will have to be removed so that is the ideal opportunity to test it. If the tank is plastic there will naturally be no rust, but there may well be condensed water which needs to be removed somehow. I doubt there is a drain plug so maybe a syphon pump down the filler neck would do the job.

Hi anyone got any recommendations on where to get spare parts quick? I need to get a part before next week and the part I need which is 04e133723dg will take 10-14 days to come I don’t actually need the whole of that part just the quick release connection but apparently that’s not something you can buy

It's only condensation and nothing to worry about. Water vapour is formed during combustion which then condenses in contact with cold steel. It will be worse in cold weather and will disappear when the exhaust system is hot.

Hi guys I own a 1991 B3 16v quattro that's not moved for about 12 years and I've decided it's time to get the old girl back on the road, my first point of call is the fuel system so new pump and filter but would like to clear the system of all the old stuff. What would be the best way to go about this before I start on the other fluids. Thanks

Hi all, I've been noticing a really odd water drip when we reverse the A3 onto the drive, its just leaves a small trail. It did it again at the weekend and I go underneath an noticed water leaking from the exhaust, but there was nothing leaking above it and the exhaust isnt rusty or blowing, so no wear/tear holes. I did a quick google search and it transpires this is quite common, however is this normal? I've never seen this before so I am "baffled", pardon the exhaust pun. Have you guys also got this? Is it normal? Should I be concerned or remediate some way? Thanks.

SET OF 4, AUDI A6 S-LINE 18" INCH ALLOY WHEELS & GOOD TYRES. MANUFACTURE PART CODE: 4K0601025D CAME OFF A AN AUDI A6 C8, MAYBE THE ALLROAD QUATTRO ALSO. CODES OFF THE BACK OF THE WHEELS: - E 8Jx18H2. - ET39 - 4K0601025D - DOT - 008868/2013 - AlSi7M - AUSTRIA - AA3 - AU191 K4 WHEELS ARE IN PRETTY NICE CONDITION. ONE WHEEL HAS A MINOR GRAZE ON THE EDGE OF THE SPOKE AND EDGE OF RIM, WHICH HAS BEEN TOUCHED UP SO YOU CAN HARDLY TELL. THERE ARE A COUPLE OF VERY MINOR MARKS ON A COUPLE OF OTHER WHEELS. COME WITH 225/55/18 TYRES. - TWO TYRES HAVE AROUND 5-6 MM TREAD REMAINING - ACCELERA IOTA ST68. - ONE TYRE HAS AROUND 3 MM REMAINING BUT HAS SOME MINOR EDGE WEAR - TOYO PROXES. - ONE TYRES HAS AROUND 3-4 MM TREAD REMAINING - MICHELIN PRIMACY 4 ALL TYRES HOLDING AIR PERFECTLY. ALL WHEELS COME WITH ORIGINAL CENTRE CAPS. NO CRACKS, CANNOT SEE ANY FLATSPOTS OT BUCKLES. CANNOT SEE ANY PREVIOUS WELDS. BOUGHT THESE TO USE AS A WINTER SET ON MY A3 BUT THEY ARE THE WRONG TYRE SIZE. WOULD CONSIDER A PART EX WITH A SET OF 18" A3/S3/S-LINE WHEELS - LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE. LOCATION, BIRMINGHAM. £295 ono .

No i haven't, i did replaced belt tensioner too

Is this the vacuum operated locking system? I recall a similar forum question a year or two ago to which there was no resolution sadly.

Tony. If the water pump was not replaced at the same time as the belt as it should have been, that could be the source of the noise. As Steve said, get the car to a garage ASAP, because a belt failure is usually sudden and the consequent engine damage can be catastrophic. Opinions on belt duration, even from Audi, have changed over the years. I would stick with the older 70000 miles recommendation for peace of mind. It's an expensive job at £700 but a lot cheaper than a new engine.

Get yourself a cheap multimeter and test whether: [1] power is getting to the motor, [2] the resistor is working, [3] the switch is working, [4] the motor earth connection is not broken.

Is there a belt tensioner that you bypassed with the short belt?

It's good to know even lurkers can benefit from the forum.

Hi Guys, my Speedo is fluctuating, it always goes down and back up again but sometimes sticks at zero. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? Oh, and where does the Speedo get its feed from? TIA John

I think it was from a 2015 model. The Mileage would be unknown that’s the only thing. The bushes are showing signs of wear and I’m not sure how much play they should have. I’ll compare with mine when removed. Iv ordered bushes and I’ll experiment with my old subframe when removed. I think the threaded bar and cup would work well and I did find an Audi tool but it was near £1000. Plenty of cup and bar tools for other manufactures for £40-50 so I’ll take measurements and see if I can find one that works.

Thank you Nigel, We now understand your request, since you have explained it far more clearly than you did in your opening post. If you had done that, the actual situation - which only you knew - would have been less confusing. For the rest of the membership, this is as I see it:- Your particular car was originally fitted with a beige carpet, but someone - at some time - has replaced this with a black carpet. You now want to replace this black carpet with an original example of a beige one. As I see it, the particular colour code of this carpet is not really necessary, since wherever you intend getting it from, ( where would that be?) there will only be one beige variant for your model year. Hopefully this qualifies the situation. Regards, Gareth.

Looks good. Do you know the age of the car the rear subframe came off? I know it's belt and braces to renew the bushes. No idea how to replace, either pushed out with a press or drawn out with threaded bar and cup. You find more details on erWIN (pay to view).

hi juuso,this is a common problem with these models,i got an autoelectrician to disconnect my immobiliser and the i disconnected the central locking pump myself,no problems since but it means all doors need to be opened and locked manually,i hope this helps.Greg

Looks great so far please keep us updated with your progress 🙂

Glad you got sorted and the forum helped you 🙂

Ayoop Kev, just looked out the window and looks like she's still level so no leaks yet. I'll call it a win......but she is a high maintenance side chick so I'm wondering what the NEXT sulk is gonna be about.....if I WILL date these outta my league expensive birds....🤣 anyway, thanks again everyone for thoughts, ideas and support....as Arnie says..... I'll be back.

Think you need to get this into a garage as soon as you can.

Is it worth having a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up?