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Audi A6 C7 No Power & Wont Drive


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Hi Ryan, will deffo have a look at the video as when I watched my belt being changed it was from at least five feet away so I could not observe any fine detail and had to get a bit further back when the swearing started when a ratchet broke.

Now have THE RIGHT and only part numbers for both sensors should you or I need them, believe me when I tell you one of the cars he showed me which they had just started on the belt even though still tensioned you could move it about 10mm up and down, I rang him today and he is of the same opinion as I am that there will be no detrimental effect on the engine😁.

Steve.

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That's great news, thank you...

So, the garage have sent me a couple videos now and my belt had failed due to the crank seal failing and the belt being covered in oil. 
 

I have uploaded two videos to my google drive for you or anyone else to view. Please note these might not play immediately due to still processing. I have also had to cut the videos down to hide my registration and to localise to the immediate issue (as they done a full car inspection via video)

Video 1 is when it first arrived at the garage

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uX70gIGqmE8P1npxSmqayAnmLh9zAup8/view?usp=sharing

 

Video 2 is after stripping the required area down

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uYw1irhYg2WdgOrm2SH8DHOdvejRDZqV/view?usp=sharing

 

The quoted cost of repair is:

Cam belt £625 VAT Inc. - With this they also change the water pump, the coolant fluids & give a lifetime warranty on the cam belt. When it needs changing again its free.

Crank seal £95 Vat Inc.

So far that's £864 😞. But if it gets my baby better then so be it lol.

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Hi Ryan, thanks for letting us know the final outcome and posting the videos, good skills, at least anyone like myself can whip the cam cover off just to get a quick visual, to be fair I think I would end up giving it to a garage as removing the timing belt pullys is no simple task and you need an upgraded pin kit to lock the cams and crank back into position, the lifetime warranty is a real deal as you won't have to worry about it ever again, price wise take some consolation from thinking about what Audi would have charged to do the job at least you escaped that, take care and good luck.

Steve.

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Just to give an update, cam belt and water pump changed, car started up, was running for 5 minutes, sounded perfect with no knocking noises from the engine which is a positive..... But then it cut out 😭. They are in the process of stripping it back down to ensure they have done everything correct. I have told them to check the DPF as when I was running the test before it stopped running it was stating there was 30.9g of soot measured.

Is 30.9g of soot high? And can this cause the vehicle to stop running?

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Ive just spoken to a dpf specialist and they have said 26g is the equivalent to 80% blocked. 32.5% is 100% blocked so looks like the bill just got higher as it can't be regenerated at that level. 🙈🙈🙈🙈

 

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in my 3.0 tdi from 2007 the regeneration starts when it is 36 grams, if your car has passed update from dieselgeit it should be bigger than 36 g, acquaintances say that the regeneration is done at longer intervals. look at the differential pressure sensor, it is a consumable and although it does not measure exactly the car does not show an error

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8 hours ago, BigTownz said:

Ive just spoken to a dpf specialist and they have said 26g is the equivalent to 80% blocked. 32.5% is 100% blocked so looks like the bill just got higher as it can't be regenerated at that level. 🙈🙈🙈🙈

 

Hi Ryan, I don't think the Dpf ash level is your problem, as why would the car have run at all if the DPF is totally blocked, think about it Ross Tech reckon the max loading is around 45% when it should kick off its own regeneration, as I said the workings of the Audi are fairly new to me but I have in the past had plenty of problems with the last Ford I owned not regenerating because the vaporiser unit had failed and     due to readings on Forscan I once had a loading of 220% which I got round by doing a twenty five minute forced regen whilst driving up the A12, if the car is static Wurth do a wonderful cleaning kit you can squirt through temp sensor hole, leave it overnight and then run the car to get rid of any residue, reset the DPF learned values and off you go. 

On cheaper cars the DPF core or cake is made of cordierite this is a very good filter but has a lower melting point when compared with the more expensive cars silicon carbide core, the advantage of this is that the manufacturers of these offer refurbished units at half the price of new and the only refurbishing they will have done is sonic cleaning.

Audi diesels have no vaporiser units as they are post injection regenerated engines, this  means that when the ECU receives readings from the DPF pressure sensor telling it that the soot levels are high it retards the timing slightly and over injects diesel into the bores this won't burn very efficiently but the heavily vaporised fuel is flung into the exhaust where it meets the primary chamber at the front of the DPF, this then combusts and burns the soot particles turning them to ash, during the regeneration cycle the the EGR valve is shut and I would guess Adblue injection is suspended as either of these elements would pollute the extra fuel which would in turn reduce the efficiency of the regeneration.

Steve.

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Sorry for the delay, just to give you an update, my car is still poorly and it is currently with a DPF specialist. They have checked the DPF and it was full of soot and ash. They have also checked the EGR valve which was also full of soot. After sorting these there is still the apparent issue that theres no power and it sounds rough when running. They have performed compression tests on both sides of the manifold, one side seems clear and the other seems blocked. So they believe the manifold is blocked and needs clearing.

Now im no expert on this sort of thing, is this actually an issue that can cause my symptoms? 

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6 hours ago, BigTownz said:

Sorry for the delay, just to give you an update, my car is still poorly and it is currently with a DPF specialist. They have checked the DPF and it was full of soot and ash. They have also checked the EGR valve which was also full of soot. After sorting these there is still the apparent issue that theres no power and it sounds rough when running. They have performed compression tests on both sides of the manifold, one side seems clear and the other seems blocked. So they believe the manifold is blocked and needs clearing.

Now im no expert on this sort of thing, is this actually an issue that can cause my symptoms? 

Hi Ryan,

I am guessing that they are talking about the inlet manifold and an educated guess would be that the swirl flap mechanism has failed, these monstrosities are a brilliant idea in principle, but being as on our engines they are cheaply made they tend to give problems as plastic limiters are fitted to stop the flaps from over running.

It could of course be just good old fashioned gummed up manifold as this item has to deal with EGR gas as well as oil vapour scavenged from the crankcase ventilation system, I had this with my last cab which did not have swirl flaps but at 270,000 I had the inlet manifold off to clean it out the inlet ports were actually only using about a third of the port to breath the rest was black tar , the tar is caused where the EGR gas meets the cooler crankcase gas which has a lot of engine oil vapour in it which is hard to burn so it contents itself by forming tar.

Ask them if they can run a scan on the car and see if it throws up any codes relating to the swirl flap mechanism, keep on with the updates as its all good info.

Regards Steve.

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Hi Steve, I went to the garage today and had diagnostic tests ran on the car, but it doesn't bring up a single error???? The car ran fine but sounds deep when you try to rev it. The only way I can explain the sound it when you get a boy racer that drills holes in his airbox or puts a K&N on to make it sound beefy. Any further thoughts?

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6 hours ago, BigTownz said:

Hi Steve, I went to the garage today and had diagnostic tests ran on the car, but it doesn't bring up a single error???? The car ran fine but sounds deep when you try to rev it. The only way I can explain the sound it when you get a boy racer that drills holes in his airbox or puts a K&N on to make it sound beefy. Any further thoughts?

Hi Ryan, bored again today so I spent a bit of time looking around the engine on my car, the inlet manifold is unlike anything I have ever seen its an all aluminium work of art with the Throttle valve at the bulkhead end and behind the throttle is the EGR valve this seems to enter the manifold further down from the throttle so it doesn't seem to go in on the fresh air side of the turbo pipe.

I did a bit of research on the inlet manifold it would appear there are no swirl flaps in the manifold just a rather complex little intercooler system for the EGR every thing on the manifold is water cooled and looks like hours of FUN to strip out.

With regard to the throaty induction roar it sounds like the induction pipe that runs from the other side of the MAF sensor is getting extra air from somewhere have a look at the polythene pipe where it attaches to the MAF sensor then inspect the pipe as far down towards the rear of the engine as you can, I have had this before where there is a rubber joint between the turbo intake and the polythene pipe, the rubber union had split and the car sounded deeper as you say when revved, but the easiest place to start is where the polythene pipe joins the air box as I have had problems when I disconnect the pipe to get the air filter out, the problem is that the pipe is so flimsy  when you push it back on that the lower edge folds under and leaves a gap one side.

The problem is the MAF won't spot the extra air coming in as it won't register a fault because it considers it doesn't exist, the only thing that bought the problem to light was the induction roar and the fact that the car was regenerating the DPF about five times in every hundred miles as the ECU picks up the extra air via the MAP sensor readings and adjusts the fueling to compensate so the thing over fuels and blocks the DPF quicker.

Regards Steve.

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