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which battery for my stop/start


Go to solution Solved by Magnet,

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Posted

can someone help me decide which battery would best suit my audi a4 avant estate 2.otdi stop /start as its now showing a few faults,and suspect its the battery.or should i just use halfords and let them decide.thanks stephen


Posted

there is one on eBay and he says it does not need coding item no 335930276319 ive heard on here it does.who is right please.regards stephen

Posted

Avoid going to Halfords, I mean that genuinely. For some things, especially batteries then the main dealer is more reasonable than you think. Likely an AGM battery, and it needs coded to the car. On a B8 model, I’d say it still needs coded to the car. This can be done if you know someone with VCDS.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

thanks richard.a bit tight with money at the mo. i will call audi,as i dont know anyone with vcds.thanks stephen.

Edited by alpha omega
  • Like 1
Posted

just rang audi....just for the battery alone its £390 "gulp" he could not get through to fitting.....but he did say it needs coding.....so thank you richard

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  • Solution
Posted

Hello Stephen,

Yes, best to avoid Halfords if you have respect for your wallet - also main dealers.

Of possible help:- 

I now avoid Varta/Bosch due to recent dissatisfactions.

I currently favour Exide ( their Premium grade for  those without stop/start.

Have a look at Tayna Batteries website and tap in your registration number, and that should point you to the correct battery - beware, Tayna will likely to point you towards their own brand ( sorry cannot recall the brand name at the moment) but I would simply stick with Exide.

Also have a look at Parts in Motion website - they now do Exide.

For both these companies, look on eBay before committing since they are generally listed as free shipping on there. 
Double check your current battery spec. for Ah and CCA figures and ensure the recommended replacement meets/exceeds these figure. Also check dimensions, but do not ( in caps)use a metal tape for fear of touching terminals! 
New battery will need coding.

Regards,

Gareth. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

audi had quoted 582 fitted........update and solution AA said its not the battery its a sensor on the back brake caliper,causing three yellow lights and two warnings when ignition on.."phew" thats a relief thanks all

Edited by alpha omega
Posted

So you have the ABS and traction control lights showing Stephen-? 
If it were mine, I would be getting confirmation of the fault via. and independent. 
It wont be a sensor on the rear caliper, but the ABS sensor monitoring the rear hub. It could also be a weak ‘sender’ built into the rear hub, necessitating a new hub and bearing assembly.

I’ve used Febi parts for these to good effect. 
Please let us know what you find out.

Kind regards,

Gareth.

p.s. Did you get ‘for comparison’ battery quotes from the suggested suppliers? 

Posted (edited)

hi,gareth thanks for your imput will upload pics soon of faults

20250527_213241.jpg

20250527_213248.jpg

Edited by alpha omega
Posted (edited)

i had the rear calipers changed by the garage 3 months ago at a cost of around £500.i tried ringing the garage i know they are quite busy they have been good to me so i will try them first and let you know.....i tried clearing the faults ,but come straight back on...AA gave me a quote online at 285 fitted.....but left that for now until i know what the garage comes up with....but strangely enough the cd player showing its faulty too.....hence i thought battery....i mentioned about the battery a while ago but never come back to you all as everything was going ok....so sorry. regards stephen

Edited by alpha omega
Posted
2 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

Nevertheless if it is the original battery it is long overdue to be changed irrespective of any sensor fault.

had the battery changed a few months back,and halfords said it never needed coding.but it was a halfords battery i bought from eBay.they said it was new and i trusted eBay and halfords lol

Posted

Often a battery on its way out will trigger faults. Don’t put yourself in the position by trying to kick it down the line, it will let you down. If money is tight, then any AGM battery, VARTA, Yuasa, etc, same cold cranking amps as the original. In terms of coding VCDS if you know someone or OBDeleven.

Fitting is straight forward. If you have scan software, then don’t bother hooking up battery trickle charge to points in engine, just take it out, importantly remembering to photograph the code and connect the vent tube.

Code it in and forget out it.

  • Like 1
Posted

update this is what a scanner is saying should i still go down the route of a battery cannot get into a garage some i wont touch

20250527_115633.jpg

Posted

update again here is a read out for now on the battery until i can find somewhere to have it fully checked over

20250528_084444.jpg

Posted

update.... garage managed to squeeze me in was worth the wait....it was the offside rear speed sensor,but he had to remove the wheel hub to get to the sensor.(circled in the picture)....it was seized so knocked out what he could then used the air gun with a grinder on the end to get the rest out.let that be a warning to anyone.(garage job).here is a picture with the wheel hub removed.no more warning signs and 2 bleeps everytime i turned the ignition on.thanks everyone for your thoughts.

20250528_113810.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Stephen,

I think I would have also changed the hub ( which normally houses the sender) at the same time - for the cost of the hub- with- bearing.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Magnet said:

Thanks Stephen,

I think I would have also changed the hub ( which normally houses the sender) at the same time - for the cost of the hub- with- bearing.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

you make sense gareth....unfortunately i am on a budget(yorkshire man)lol

Posted (edited)

who knows why the machine says wiltshire clifford.also the dates wrong,as i had it checked today lol 

Edited by alpha omega

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