Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and to Audi ownership. My regular driving recently changed to involve plenty of quiet, twisty B-roads, so I looked around for something that would be fun on those roads! (Limited budget as I'm still paying off Covid debts.) I ended up with a 2006 2.0 T A3. I had it checked over (all seemingly good), serviced and a set of good new tyres. Then I thought about stage 1 Revo remap and went to my local place to have a chat. The chap said there was a possibility that the clutch might not handle the extra power as the car is old (it has 148K on the clock). This made me cautious of course! But I feel that the engine is stifled (or underpowered) at higher revs and want to see if it can be improved. Any advice on this, or general advice on other things I might do, would be hugely appreciated. It's very nearly what I want, but just feels somehow limited at higher revs..... I'd like to make it perfect for me!

Hi! Also new to the group.

The mechanic is correct in saying the clutch may not handle it well, the engine will be perfectly fine, but, you may find the clutch slip or just fail outright which i have seen happen with one of my friends. if you really want to tune it, id consider an uprated clutch if you want to spend the money on one, or maybe not a full stage 1 map? like an eco type? but id either recommend not tuning it and keeping your clutch alive or tune it and deal with the clutch later. or 3rd, maybe get a car that can fully handle a tune better (not meaning to be rude)

Welcome Jonathan,

Apologies for saying it as I see it:- 

I feel for you if you still have outstanding debts.

You have (what you believe and hope) to be a reliable 20 year old workhorse, which if you treat it respectfully, will hopefully satisfy reasonable needs, but you now want to attempt to run the guts out of it and treat it as a race horse. The two things are incongruous. 
 

I’m trying to get my head around why anyone who is already in debt, would think it’s reasonable to put themselves in further debt, for the reason you are doing so. 
The old adage of cutting your coat to suit your cloth certainly applies here. 
Please keep your credit cards in a draw and your hands in your pocket, otherwise I see a significantly increased likelihood of impending problems.

Regards,

Gareth. 

Jonathan.

As an owner of the same model I don't understand why you want to uprate the car. I can assure you it can already be driven dangerously fast on "quiet, twisty B-roads". Why do you want to terrorise other motorists and create mayhem in narrow country lanes?

Thanks for the input, everyone. I was after technical suggestions rather than life advice! But thanks for clutch help. (Might I gently point out that having a fast car doesn't mean you are going to drive like an idiot.... as an aside, way the most dangerous drivers in our village tend to be forty-something mums in SUVs!)

30 minutes ago, Podshole said:

Thanks for the input, everyone. I was after technical suggestions rather than life advice! But thanks for clutch help. (Might I gently point out that having a fast car doesn't mean you are going to drive like an idiot.... as an aside, way the most dangerous drivers in our village tend to be forty-something mums in SUVs!)

Have you considered a tuning box , so you can have some output adjustments and not simply all or nothing from a remap .  Some are even controlled via your phone nowadays ..  just a thought .  Btw if your clutch is the original it'll soon be killed off by the extra torque . Also spare a thought for the brakes and think about how your stopping ..    

32 minutes ago, Audisq524 said:

Have you considered a tuning box , so you can have some output adjustments and not simply all or nothing from a remap .  Some are even controlled via your phone nowadays ..  just a thought .  Btw if your clutch is the original it'll soon be killed off by the extra torque . Also spare a thought for the brakes and think about how your stopping ..    

Hi Billy dont go within a hundred miles of a tuning box, I have TDI tuning up the road from me and even they admit how they work, they fit in between the fuel rail temperature sensor and its plug, their function is to tell the ECU that the engine temperature is still low therefore the ECU will keep the fuelling high to achieve operating temperature, yes it goes better with the extra fuel but the bit they dont want to tell is that physically when the engine is fully warmed the excess fuel is not all burnt and will hang around the sides of the swirl bowl on the piston, these larger droplets are dragged down the bore and in to your oil causing dilution and worse case scenario bore wash with added piston slap, thats why they recommend 5k oil changes but that wont stop the end result.

Steve.