Hello

Apologies if this is not allowed as i dont own an audi

just wondering what to expect on a Q7/Sq7 model from 2015-2019, id like one with around 50-80k miles (or whatever is average for age). is there any timing chains, gaskets etc which need changed soon. i would prefer an engine which has no critical plastic parts but it would be getting serviced appropriately with an oil change every 5k miles . i wouldnt be driving it daily as i have a work van. thought id ask actual drivers of the cars. Thanks for reading

Regards

Owen

Welcome Owen, and thanks for joining.

I’m sure a couple of owners will be along soon to guide you with your queries.

Regards,

Gareth.

hi gareth. thanks for getting back so quickly

no problem, any and all advice is appreciated, seen a few youtube vids and im hooked on the Q7 or even the SQ7 if its right. Just want to know what to expect on the “older” models Maintenance wise.

regards

Owen

Q7s from this era were primarily V6 TDi engines in 218PS and 272PS variants. SQ7 used V8 diesel. Think there was also 2.0TFSI model, but relatively rare and given it's thirst to shift the best part of 2 tonnes, it wouldn't be economical. Some also use plug in battery (E-tron), potentially gives you additional 30 miles. I know that can cause a bit of grief if it goes wrong.

All paired with Tiptronic 8-speed boxes. Like everything, the diesel models are all chain drive, and servicing is crucial. That means oil changes every 8-10k miles or less if previous owner was particularly fastidious. V6 engine is a solid workhorse.

I've never driven one, but have the 272PS engine in my A4 Allroad and would be the one I would choose. 600Nm of torque and will return 50mpg if driven sensibly, less in a Q7 though

I'd expect the Q7 to go through tyres and brakes, so factor that in. Can also pull impressive 2800kg if there's a towbar.

These engines don't tend to use oil. However as it's diesel, Euro 6, then you are into AdBlue, DPF, EGR, cats, etc. Better to have a car that's done regular annual mileage. These engines don't like short runs, or you're into emission territory and potential carbon build up.

Suspension - standard multi-link or adaptive air suspension from what I understand. 100k plus mileage, you're likely into replacing bushes if not already done.

Hi mate

some good info on there, thanks for the help

Im prepared for the maintenance costs.

on the diesel side with the DPF filter etc. do you have any advice on mileage should i be doing to avoid carbon build up. I wont be using the vehicle daily but im prepared to do a long trip at least once a month to prevent particle issues. What is a short run by a diesel engine standard?

once again thanks

Owen

19 minutes ago, Owenscot said:

on the diesel side with the DPF filter etc. do you have any advice on mileage should i be doing to avoid carbon build up. I wont be using the vehicle daily but im prepared to do a long trip at least once a month to prevent particle issues. What is a short run by a diesel engine standard?

It's about getting the engine to operating temperature and a decent run every so often. Short runs would be 10-15 miles. If this is for urban commuting, that's when you get into issues, start-stop, etc. At some point the EGR valve will clog - that's inevitable on diesels. In addition AdBlue is known to weak point, as it uses integral tank with pump and sender. I've started using Forte anti-crystal on every AdBlue top up. You can also use Forte fuel conditioner (for diesels) straight in the fuel tank on a quarter full and drive it like you stole it for 15-20 mins. The fuel filter needs changed, so do this every 20k miles. Helps clean injectors, etc. Also treat the car to premium diesel.

Older Euro 4 diesels could be used for short run journeys, but eventually intake manifolds get carbon build up, or sticky vanes on the turbo.

Euro 6 - the engine is regenerating anyway, which is where the engine heats up to effectively burn off soot via DPF.

These cars tend to be sensor heavy, so irrespective of whether you're spanner handy, I'd advocate getting VCDS (via Gendan), as the car will store logged faults. Main dealer will charge you £200 minimum for scan. In fact - it's worth even checking any perspective new purchase. Logged or stored faults will remain unless cleared. Usually referred to as DTCs. If you are spanner handy - then things like retracting rear electro-mechanic handbrake, priming fuel pump and relearning motors such as panoramic sunroof are useful to have.

Audi also use ODIS dealer level software. Controls programming features, security, etc. I know for example that even Golf Mk 8 - you can't service rear brakes without it. Sign of things to come I'm afraid.

As chains and tensioners are at the back of the engine - then it's an engine out job to replace, along with plastic guides. Should be good for the life of the engine, but where they get camshaft sprocket wear or chain slap is on cars that were on long-service regimes (up to 18k miles) between oil changes. Look carefully at the service history and avoid anything that's not been serviced at up to 10-12k mile intervals. No oil can maintain viscosity and lubricating qualities at that sort of mileage. Audi will tell you different, but this was brought in to satisfy fleet managers trying to reduce costs. Most of these cars were 3-4 years old on finance deals, so bill is normally picked up by next unsuspecting owner down the line.

Tiptronic boxes do have a ZF service kit - so if not done I would get this done at 60-80k miles for peace of mind. Front and rear diffs usually good up to 100k miles.