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Scumbags. I'd recommend looking for an auto electrican or someone who repairs modules. As abs pump ECUs etc can be repaired.

Hi UDS is a more aggressive scanning mode that is more suited to Canbus data software systems, with regard to unplugging things I can see why people don't do it as when my car had a new clutch master fitted we unplugged a fair few connectors on the GEM module above it to get the GEM out to give access to the clutch master cylinder, the car was dormant and had not been run for about eight hours but when I plugged in to see if there were any faults BINGO every service we had disconnected from the GEM had a one time lost contact code the ignition was never on but the only thing I can conclude is all systems are monitored around the clock even when not in use. Steve.

If you have an sline I'm sure 20" rims will look fine on it, they were an oe option, you will find the tyre size on the sticker on the car.

I understand and would hate anyone else to be in a similar position, but Gareth is right - I can't say anything that may prejudice a potential legal case. Either way, to speak only the facts this is a well known main dealer group, on a one year old car, with a 1,000 mile overrun on a 'recommended' service interval (due to being unable to get an earlier slot!) and a fault that occurred only 25 miles after work was carried out. They've taken an unbelievably hard line approach, refusing to even consider any 'goodwill' or 'customer support' action that is available to them. I'd also add it's NOT the dealership I bought the vehicle from - not that it should be an issue, but had I been able to return there I suspect I'd have been looked after a lot better. It's all about people at the end of the day, and I dare say the people at the root of this all would likely be the same whichever badge they wear - and that's something that Audi UK should really have taken more seriously in my opinion.

It's a beautiful day, with hardly a cloud in the sky, and already warm when I take the convertible out of the garage... Let's get all sweaty working under the bonnet, eh? 😆 Half an hour before commencing work, I'd given the wiper trim joint a fair spray of penetrating oil. I remove the battery cover, scuttle cover and pull the scuttle seal off. I then remove the two front screws on the ECU cover. Crouching down at the side of the car, I remove the trim clip and then try to see if the wiper trim has any 'give' in it. No joy. No matter. I remove the wipers and then gently l manually prise the wiper trim up to try to gain access to the rear driver's side screw. I have a wide selection of tools to try to do this, and it would have been easier if it had been a hex head bolt, as I could get good access at a slight angle. No good for a torx, alas. Eventually I pull the trim up as much as I dare and jam a small block of wood between it and the ECU cover... This gives me just enough room to get a tiny ratchet driver with a T30 bit square onto the screw. I can turn about 10 degrees at a time, but it's a fine tooth ratchet and makes short work of it. I then undo the other side and the slightly difficult back screws. So far this has taken me about an hour - but I'm taking my time trying not to damage anything. I juggle the cover about and get it off... ...to reveal the ECU, held in place not by bolts, but by a large spring clip. I'm pleased to see everything looks watertight and like new in this area. I undo the clip, carefully lift the ECU out of the way and there it is... ...relay 614. I pull it out (even access to do this is a challenge 🤦‍♂️) and have a look... As expected, it's the original fit in the car, and the contact blades are showing various degrees of corrosion. I spray a little contact cleaner into the sockets in the car. So, out with the old and in with the new. I wet the contacts on the new Herth relay with contact cleaner and wiggle it gently into place... Right - time to start reassembly. I replace the ECU and secure its spring clip, then clear all tools etc from under the bonnet, plug in my OBDeleven, open the App and start the engine. I do a full scan and find three faults: All three are Code 01304 - saying there's some problem communicating with the radio. I am expecting this, as I have an afterrmarket stereo fitted in the car. More importantly, it does NOT have a fault code 1314. The fix has worked. 😎👍 So - time to put it back together. Weirdly, it took very little time - the driver's side rear screw (which I'd put some rubber grease on, as it was a bit dry and rusty) went in finger tight until about a turn from set, the other screws also behaved themselves. I refitted the scuttle cover, seal and battery cover, then put a dab of copperslip on the wiper splines before refiittlng them. Time to take it out for a spin, I think... 😎

This is the VCDS that I have.