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If you have emptied the system you will need to do a pressure bleed and cycle the ABS pump with VCDS. that is the only way you can remove all theair. I purchased a pressure bkeader from Eba and it workes the charm bleeding brakes. Start the bleed with the cylender farthest away from the master ctlender., LR, RR, LF, RF and dont forhet your clutch slave cylender if it has a manual transmission.

I would try disconnecting the blue wire plug and using a small length of wire with the ends stripped off or a unfolded paper clip to make a jumper wire for the plug on the tailgate loom and see how you get on, clear the faults and see if they come back

hydrogen it seems is the only way forward....but whatever happens we will always be conned by goverment think tanks

Hi if they do it under warranty for you its a simple fix, if you were paying for it thats a different matter, its horrific as you have to remove the front of the car to get the cat and DPF out, I had mine done twice , the parts are expensive, I dont think the garage that sold you the car have a clue about what's involved I did a fairly extensive description of it on the C7 part of the forum and all other members who own vehicles with the ULTRA system have had the same problems, A5,A6,Q5 etc, its a lousy design and if the fault is left the cooler ruptures and feeds adblue crystals in to the water system, thats fun, to be totally honest if I won another A6 in a competition I would have it up on Autotrader the next day the C7-C8 are money pits, what with the EGR coolers, stratospherically high parts prices for clutch parts and a dash light for every occasion I would definitely pass on another one. Steve.

The car itself has detected a leak so if definitely say it's the bag. If non were working then that'd be more likely the compressor but thankfully not in this case.

That just about sums it up really, including the fact that batteries are guaranteed for 8 years, this would surely mean that buying an EV of that age would need a replacement battery and that is unfortunately where the problem lies. Would you buy an 8 year old ICE car and then expect to replace the engine. Call me an old dinosaur but when I put my foot on the load pedal I like the feeling I get from the noise it makes as much as the acceleration. As said above we should have a choice and not be forced into EVs by an over zealous government.

Problem is now solved FWiW! I decided to flush the heater core (only) to see if there was any blockage - theory being that as some heat could be felt on the passenger side but none on the drivers side, suggested to me a partially blocked heater core. It's not a single capillary path in the core but a classic radiator style matrix. Method: I disconnected the hoses to the heater core in the scuttle area between the fire wall and bulkhead. It was a PITA but I got the hoses off. I connected some garden hose (softened to get it to expand from the 1/2" bore to the c.25mm pipes of the heater core). I hooked it up to mains water and ran water through the core in both directions (i.e. reversed the flow). There was what can best be described as sand-like sediment but not a lot. Reconnected the hoses, topped up the coolant, and ran the engine for c.15 mins, with the heat and blower at maximum. Heat was now coming through all vents. When the weather improves (or the fault returns!) I will do a full additive-based system flush then refill with the recommended coolant.

Yes, happy days. As the government pushes even harder towards EV ownership and buyers learn more about the cons of ownership, hopefully there will be a push towards alternative fuels, ie synthetic petrol. But first the government needs to understand that the vast majority can't charge at home and or can't afford the cost of buying an EV as opposed to a reliable second hand ICE car.

The 1.4 litre petrol engine was notorious for a few years for its enormous oil consumption. I don't recall which years were affected so it would be worth researching to determine if yours is one of them. Whatever the result, take it back to the dealer.

Definitely get it back for repair. Feel free to get an independent diagnosis for peace of mind.

How long have you had it and did you buy it from a dealer? If bought from a dealer in the last 30 days it's their responsibility to repair it free of charge as you can return the car for a full refund In that time.

The old interval was 5 years or 120k miles which ever comes first I believe. However Audi changed this to no time frame. I wouldn't risk it over 5 years with a belt in my opinion.