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I recently bought a 2015 S3 3dr, unmodified. 70k mls. For mpg, in Efficiency mode on the mway I can manage 34mpg @70 average. And 32mpg @ a higher average, going with the flow of traffic. Having said that it's pretty boring to do so but if it saves money on the commute then so be it!

I have just bought one with 85k on the clock. Drove so nice on the test drive and the history looked good. About a month after the purchase it has a few issues with it. I’d had the diffs and Haldex serviced due to lack of. Then my mechanic after the service told me it has a few problems with her. Not the diffs or Haldex may I add. The pcv valve being one issue which is possible causing maf problems as well. There is also an air leak which is not helping. Yet to locate that problem. Will keep trying to overcome these small issues as I absolutely love the car. Just not the small niggles she has.

Hi my bad with the confusion about oil changes vs cam belt, but I can't believe anyone in their right mind would take the advice of a dealership in good faith, they are just telling you what they think you want to hear especially with Audi who now build overpriced cars that frequently and expensively break just like the rest of the manufacturers, but people blindly follow the myth of bullet proof, what I am saying is if you do your research and take at least some of the advice given on forums like this you may well make your car last longer than most. Steve.

Hello David, Different symptoms now, which suggests a sub standard battery as being at least a contributor. I would recommend you get this checked before moving on. This car seems to have been built during Covid, and likely to have been sitting around for months - not good for batteries. Yes, charge it by all means ( using an ‘intelligent’ charger) and see if you have any reduction in symptoms. If so, it may be worthwhile getting the battery professionally tested - Halfords stores can do this. If it is eventually declared to be substandard then please come back to us if you have respect for your wallet, and we can give you some pointers for good deals. Regards, Gareth.

It'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Are there any other electrical gremlins? I ask because if there are this could be a low battery that's the cause.

Morning Kevin, I think it was understood that you were referring to oil changes, and yes technology has moved on. The days of changing oils every 3K miles are well remembered, along with reboring, crank regrindig etc. and yes part exchanging your car for a new one every year. Things have changed and ‘marketing’ has become the key word. Encouraging owners to buy servicing contracts with their PCP whereby the vehicle gets service at c18K or 18 months - whichever comes first, ensures dealers and fleet operators spend as little as possible on servicing and the ‘plan’ becomes lucrative. I could well be called old fashioned, but anyone who runs a modern diesel for c18K miles does not have the vehicle’s best interest in mind, when you consider stop/start systems and oil dilution. What surprises me is that potential buyers have undue respect for ‘full service history’ where the vehicle may spend half a day in a workshop every 18 months, and get abused for the rest of its time. For me, full service history means an oil and filter change at least at 8 to 10k mile intervals. Regards, Gareth.

Dpf was blocked, dpf off and cleaned 3 times then put back on. All power is back and no limp mode yet! Tedious job so if not mechanically inclined I’d definitely take it to a garage.

Absolutely seems that way sadly

What's with the rudeness? You don't like the answers use Google, Facebook etc. makes me question what research you did in the first place regarding these engines. Alternatively, take it to a garage for a proper diagnosis like every car owner who isn't mechanically minded has to do.