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Hi Gareth Sorry but I have been busy searching u tube etc as recommended, but in answer to the questions Yes I have the tools and the skills , I have been working on my own cars and family cars for years, rebuilt some engines and fully restored motorcycles in the past. I have the locking tools and bought a Gates belt kit already however I am not familiar with this Audi engine hence the request for a guide to the correct procedure and I thought it maybe something that another member had done a write up on that’s all , maybe something i could do if i decide to do the job. thanks again John

Best price i could find from an Audi mechanic who does a few private jobs was £350 labour only, my car is a 2011 B8 and best price for a clutch and dmf flywheel kit is £450, they seem to be a lot more expensive for the B8.

Hi I had four master cylinders over the 270 k I covered in the car so I am fully aware of what you describe, if they replace the cylinder and the fault recurs technically under the law of consumer rights they have not repaired it if the replacement was within the thirty days, I dont know what the milage is on your car but the slave failure on C7 models is rare but not unknown, I would stipulate that the system be flushed and refilled with Comma ESP4 as I found through experience that cheap Dot4 causes premature wear on the seals, from memory there was a thread on here where a guy had replaced his clutch assembly and had the same problem so I suggested he used Comma and it cured the problem, it turns out the Audi brake fluid had been upgraded to accommodate the new type of seals they are using and ESP4 is as near as you will get to genuine fluid without bankruptcy, the problem is the cylinder seals when at rest allow air in so at the beginning the pedal stays up a while when used as it sort of self bleeds in to the brake master cylinder, this will only persist for a while until the volume of air exceeds its capacity to self bleed, think about it, air bubbles rise in any viscous fluid. Steve.

Got an air hammer, but my budget doesn't quite extend to induction heater! Saw you've had it diagnosed as lower arms. These could be hydra-bushes, so OE as before such as Lemforder.

back from the local garage, they put the car up on the ramp and had a look around. They reckon that the pinch bolt was fine and there was no rattle or movement. They showed me the lower front suspension arms and the bushings appeared to be perished - you could see daylight around them, so it seems like 2 new lower front arms are needed ( £477 parts and labour incl VAT ) They checked the callipers and rotors and springs while they and I was there and nothing else seemed to rattle...

I won't be buying another Audi either. Mine is going in for the issue to be investigated on the 20th of Nov, but given what everyone else is saying, I'm not hopeful of a positive outcome. If that's the case, I will request an escalation, and if all else fails, I'm seriously considering contacting WatchDog, as I consider this a serious safety issue. I'll update the thread after the investigation. John.

Hello, So new N/S door loom fitted seems to have resolved the nproblem which is good news. Inspected the old one and no visible sign of damage so whatever the issue it must be cocealed working the loom covering tape. Cost? Well genuine Audi part was £175…. Apparently this is quite a common issue? Best regards, David👍

So finally got to the bottom of this! The new genuine pressure sensor (from Audi) was faulty - simple as! changed it for another oe sensor, hey presto, got my AC back! As for the 'missing' air quality sensor....wasn't missing - it doesn't have one. My car came out of the factory with 'basic' AC climate control which doesn't utilise an air quality sensor........it seems that pre my ownership of the car, someone changed the climate control unit for the 'convenience' version, which does utilise an air quality sensor!

Hi guys just a wee update. The high pressure fuel pump and the cam follower has been replaced and the car runs sweet as a nut. The follower was badly worn and we believe this for causing the majority of the issues but as a precaution we replaced the hpfp aswell. Hope this is of use to someone. Thanks for your help

Hi there is no way of testing the master cylinder but from the description of your problem I would say 100% that is your problem, the cylinder seals are allowing air in to the system, but in saying that I have come across the situation on higher milage vehicles where the clutch master has failed so the cylinder was replaced then the fault reappeared a couple of weeks later, it turns out the slave cylinder is doing the same thing, so ended up replacing both, this is not unusual on Audis because of their obsession with using plastic rubbish in major wear items. Steve.

Kwikfit not umdertaking top arms on a multilink suspension vehicle says it all. This is bread and butter stuff. If its top arms, which can be diagnosed with worn bushes is straight forward for a well equipped garage. It's a steel bolt on an alloy strut. Heat first with induction ring. Obviously clean area first. The pinch bolt as its know can be a pain. Air hammer too as aluminium oxide corrosion siezes it solid. Klann make a specific tool, or even Laser have a cheap option. Lemforder or Meyle HD for arms, don't be fobbed off with anything else. Get tracking alignment afterwards.

Kwik Fit. Good luck with that David!

Broken wires in the rubber bellows between door and frame are a common cause of this problem.