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Yes.

Hi it could well be an earthing fault or most likely a starter motor fault which is why it starts with a boost a knackered starter loves a bit of extra voltage, that's why it sucks all power from everything else on the car. Steve.

Look on LLL parts and get a part number based on year, engine code, etc and go from there. I take it - it's a non-quattro? It's Also known as front subframe cross-member. They are just powder-coated steel, so yes, they eventually succumb. Treat with Lanoguard or similar once fitted.

Thanks Tim, We spend thousands of £s to buy even a secondhand car, then we spend valuable time shopping around trying to save relatively small amounts of money to maintain it. One thing is for certain, marketing folks are paid good money to entice us to spend our hand earned on their employer’s products and service, and price matching is one of the older gimmicks. They are also good at coming up with get out clauses - that good, that they would get under a snakes belly with a top hat on! Regards, Gareth.

Remove the existing switch and take a closer look. You need to quote the Audi part number. There will be one, trust me, somewhere. Back to sunroofs - there are notorious for leaking at the drains or the actual tray cassette, so check the switch for corrosion on contacts. The motor or micro-switch can also fail. The fact it's still working means there's 12v current, so likely to be a contact issue rather than a failed motor. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/201/9/959/959000 In my experience if you remove the motor - you many need to go through a relearn sequence as there's probably pinch-protection on the roof. The actual switch is part 4A on the LLL parts diagram. I checked parts for a year 2000 model and they are exactly the same, apart from colour code of interior. New one to me - called a Potentiometer (sounds like it should be used in the film Back to the Future!) If it's standard grey - this work? https://www.newmiltonautoparts.com/4b0959613b--a-genuine-audi-a3-4-a6-a8-sunshine-roof-sunroof-switch-13549-p.asp

Andrew. Thanks for an unusually clear explanation. Yes, the driver's door lock is the master that controls the others, so that should be the first thing to sort out. Damaged wires between door and frame are a common problem. Most often the fault affects the driver's door as that one gets the most use, but it will be necessary to examine all the doors and boot wiring as they all suffer insulation cracking. It is possible that speaker wires are also damaged as run through the same rubber bellows as the door and window controls.

OK I'll see if I source one somewhere Thanks

Yes, and on that note I ordered and its arrived! Looks good, just need to fit it, maybe go to my local garage so I don't get it in the way of any wires that are possibly behind the blank panel. Will update when fitted.

I've had good feedback on here for Carly - but at the same time watch out in case you consider them - they have a really, really shabby sales practice, and as part of the check-out process you immediately lose any right to return the scanner or cancel subscription! ( this is even after I had contacted their customer service to ask about what features were included - and they suggested I could buy it to see if it was what we needed - obviously knowing full well that if it wasn't suitable for us we'd be stuffed and have to keep it! )

Gareth - hi - yes, repairer has said on my A6 ( C7 2.0 manual ) the Slave cylinder is external, hence the £250 quote. I'm trying to leave things to the experts to diagnose. My dilemma is the other advice out there, in particular the advice / personal experience of SteveyY and master cylinders......🤔 I've tried to get it agreed that while the repairing garage have quoted to replace only the Slave cylinder, they are doing that as they think that is the most likely solution. But, it's being done on the basis they are not guaranteeing that a new Slave Cyl. is a certain solution, and so further work ( i.e. master cylinder ) may be necessary. Appreciate that should always be buyer's right anyway ( if the 1st fix hasn't worked ) , but, seemed worthwhile getting it down on paper - don't suppose it will hurt🤔, and might make it bit harder for seller / warranty to try and wriggle if further work is actually needed. Cliff - hi - yes mindful of time passing. The 'repair train' ( - aka the diagnosis & repair process ) - is already moving along - just a bit slowly. Quote has already been submitted to the selling garage for agreement; Selling garage had acknowledged, & said they'd consult warranty firm and revert this morning; No reply this a.m., so I 'nudged' seller, saying I'd expected seller to cover costs himself ( rather than looking to get a warranty firm to pay ) so as not to hold things up ( and separate matter if he wants to seek getting the money back from the warranty firm - that shouldn't affect me/getting car fixed ); Seller agreed😀, and has sent funds to me - so I can pay repairing garage once slave fitted; Repair garage given go-ahead to proceed 🙂, and! they'd had a booking cancelled, so they might get to my car tomorrow 🙂🙂 so 'good day' today!

I did look into it myself but just fitted the reverse camera as by far the most usefull

I'd have thought getting a price match is a physical impossibility. Typical marketing ploy. Once you factor in genuine Audi parts, then their labour rate of £190 an hour, you're on a hiding to nothing. You can still use genuine Audi parts (most are produced by other manufacturers) with Audi stamped on it, such as Mann for air, fuel and oil filters), TRW or ATE for brakes, etc.

I believe that a new module is required for front camera as it’s part of the 360 system that would add mirror cameras also, never came across a Audi with the wiring in place for this that doesn’t have cameras factory fitted, rear camera can be installed without any new module though