Leaderboard

So mudguards fitted. I think they look good. Was easy enough and managed to do it without removing wheels. However a couple of points to note. 1: when fitting the front guards, you first have to “pop” a couple of rivets on each side (keep the top rivet in situ). This is done by pushing the centre of the rivet through with a very small screwdriver. Thanks to @Das for his help on this. However the holes left behind in the bodywork were actually too big for the screws supplied with my mudguards. Luckily I had a (very) old pack of U Clips from Halfords in my toolbox and was able to use these to make the holes more useable and the mudguards very secure. Had to drill a small hole to secure the bottom of the mudguard (small enough so the supplied screws would fit) but did this once I had fitted and secured the guards using the two screws and U Clips to the side. Turning front wheel full lock will allow enough space, at least it did with my 20inch alloys. I’m sure 21’s will also be fine. 2: Rears, whilst being able to utilise the torx screws already in place, had a lot less room to work with. I ended up using an adjustable wrench and the correct torx bit. Was a bit fiddly, but got the job done. Anyway I’m very happy with the results. May not be for everyone, but I’m happy with the less shouty “dad wagon” vibe that I’m trying achieve and the mudguards add to that I think.

Clutch wear does not happen suddenly so it's most likely air in the hydraulic system. Top up the fluid if it is low and it might restore enough action to get you home. If extra fluid makes no difference it would risk gearbox damage to drive it.

Sounds like you’ve got nothing to lose regards headlight restoration. Plugging in non OE units is likely to throw up can bus errors. Assuming the headlight lens are plastic, then try wet sanding with a Sealey kit, all you will need is a variable speed drill. Usually sandpaper disc ranges from 600-3000 grit, wet lubed as you work. The kits usually have a cutting compound once sanding is done which will be something like Menzerna, then coat with a UV protectant. I’d remove the headlights and work on a bed of old towels. Masking bodywork will end in tears otherwise. Blank the headlight backs with a suitable rubber tape to stop water ingress.

Hi because they are fixed callipers on the front probably six pot and there is no movement in the calliper to let any trapped debris free floating units are far more forgiving, AUDI obviously thought it was a good idea to put track car callipers on a normal car, yes the braking is more progressive but you can loose that advantage after the first 30k as most people never change their fluid which especially on fixed callipers has a dramatic effect on pad/disc wear. Steve.

I am confused. In the same sentence you say it wouldn't start and it does start. Please clarify.

WOW thanks Steve that is some knowledge! I will contact my mechanic, I know he would not do fix but he has a specialist. Thanks everyone, I will prob wait till the new year to do this however so will report back!

Hi unfortunately you will always get the odd hangers on I had it with my car you have to get to the mindset of ignoring the codes that do not affect the running and scan once a month to clear any irrelevant codes, Audi thought they were really clever designing a software that registered a code for everything, but its not clever it just gives the uneducated something to pay for and worry about every time it went to the dealers for a service. Steve.

Quick update - Martin at Bolton Car Interiors did a fantastic job, communicated really well and was reasonably priced for what was a unique job which no other garage could do. So indirectly he saved me 000's of pounds. Great place if you ever need any work doing.