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@Magnet No Gareth. £695.00 for the two years cover - paid upfront OR a 24 monthly payments. No interest. You've added the upfront payment to the 24x monthly ones and so paying twice for everything! 🙂 Give me credit Gareth! My fairly 'local' garage that i know, deal mainly with 4x4s. They'd be wanting in excess of £695 to match the equivalent of what the Audi garage will do and give. The £695 also includes 2 MOTs I’m happy to put my trust in a garage with qualified Audi engineers.

Refurburbishing alloys is a thankless task, and to be honest it’s one of these things best left to the professionals and powder coating, rebalance, etc. That’s different if it was just a scuff, but this is a full strip-down. The time, cost of materials, including zinc etch primer, base coat primer, colour coat and a few coats of lacquer soon mounts up. If you’re determined to do it, then the alloys need to be spotless. Paint wise, then Würth silver metallic is as close to Audi OE as you’ll get.

Hi all. Thanks for the advice about the fault. Back from Audi garage. Fault found with replacement switch I bought. They’ve done a diagnostic check and fitted new one. All OK now.

Could be a heat shield rattling on the exhaust. Or an issue with the suspension arms when underload.

Hey Guys, First time on this forum! I bought an A6 C8 in August 2024, everything seemed well until I noticed a huge puddle behind the drivers seat footwell a few weeks ago. It appears its the same/similar problem everyone is also experiencing, took it to Audi Manchester a few days ago for a check - £145 an hour! they said they needed another 8-10 hours to remove the seats and carpet to identify the leak!! Decided not to pay the £1400 minimum and took the car home. My issue is exactly the same as Mandeep. Will be taking it to an independant garage for a diagnosis (cheaper labour rate) In the meantime drafted a letter to send to Audi head office, I will paste it below in case anyone else needs to use the draft etc Going off all the posts above i'm sure Audi are aware of the issue, whether they will honour the repair remains to be seen, but not holding my breath. I will report back once I have had a response from head office. Dear Audi Customer Services, I hope this message finds you well. My name is ******* *****, and I am reaching out to formally raise an issue with my Audi A6 C8, which I believe stems from a known design flaw. I have been experiencing water pooling under the carpet in the rear footwell, specifically behind the driver’s seat. After conducting some research, I discovered that this is a common problem among Audi A6 C8 owners, and Audi has issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) outlining the issue as a design fault. You can view the TSB here: TSB - Audi A6 C8 Water Leak Additionally, I came across this thread on the Audi Owners Club, where other owners have reported the same issue: Discussion Thread - Audi Owners Club This issue is one that Audi is already aware of, and it has even led to a class action lawsuit against the company, specifically related to the water leaks in the Audi A6 C8. This highlights the extent of the problem and reinforces that it is not an isolated issue, but a design flaw that has affected many owners. Despite this being a known problem, I recently paid £152 for a diagnostic check at Manchester Audi, yet they were unable to identify the source of the leak. However, based on my online findings, the TSB issued by Audi, and the class action lawsuit, it is clear that this is not an isolated incident and is related to a design issue, rather than something I have caused or neglected. I am aware that Audi has previously honoured this issue and, on occasion, has fixed the problem free of charge for affected customers. Given that this is a design flaw and not an error on my part, I kindly request that Audi UK address the issue in a similar manner, as a goodwill gesture. I trust that Audi UK will stand by the quality of its vehicles and rectify this issue without further delay. I would appreciate a swift resolution and look forward to your prompt response. Thank you for your attention to this matter. I hope this letter helps someone who may need it.

Welcome Mahmood. Would anyone be able to help with a recommendation for Mahmood? Regards, Gareth.

Is your fuel gauge working ok? Gauge needs to show at least 1/4 tank or DPF wont trigger. My gauge had an intermittant fault resulting in no DPF regen and car going into limp mode. I replaced the fuel gauge sensor and DPF immediately started.

Fingers crossed.

i think your right spartacus, im out right now but i’m pretty sure i do remember seeing that audi symbol. that’s definitely a bonus then. to be honest gareth, that was what i first had in mind, sanding some scratches, filling them, sanding again and then painting… but for some reason i tried to paint too much over and it caused the primer to split. and yes, definitely. at least i’ve now realised how challenging a task it is and that it’s not worth all the effort. but your right, i do love to DIY and you get that sense of achievement and another thing to add to the resume😂 - not this time though of course thanks frank.

The new part arrived and wow what a difference! No matter how much I tinkered with the old one, I'd never be able to get it as good as the part so decided to go ahead and fit it. Having just done a road test, the difference is night and day. The new part is really rigid and doesn't creak at all, where as the old one was really flexible. For anyone else experiencing this issue, particularly with a 2-3 year old car, I can't recommend changing the part enough, the improvement is huge. It cost me £319 direct from Audi and arrived the following day and was very easy to fit.

Hello Frank, I completely understand the logic of why you wanted to DIY this - job satisfaction is indeed rewarding. The problem here is, you won’t be completely happy with the end result. If it was just a question of rubbing down some scratches, priming, and a couple of light coats of colour - just to make them look a bit better - then fine. Take some positives from it Frank, although it’s possible, you have found it’s not worth while. Regards, Gareth.

They look genuine, thought I saw the Audi rings near the wheel bolts, turn them over, usually a part number on the rear.

Good on you for trying Frank, but if you had asked for advice as to whether it was a worthwhile DIY job, then I think most responses would have been as Richard says. Whether you now continue or get them done is a big question, but perhaps pessimistic, there will likely be areas of some that you won’t be happy with - as thorough as you are. Regards, Gareth.

cheers for the advice spartacus. absolutely it’s been a long few weeks of trial and error and a lot of redoing/undoing. even though i cant yet get my head around spending nearly £300 to refurbish a set of alloys i bought for £160 isn’t easy😂, it may be getting close to that, i have bought the materials such as primer, paint, lacquer, paint stripper, filler and a couple other bits to help me i may have got a bit deep into it. also heard about a hosepipe ban which will be some issue considering my pressure washer is my main source of actual paint removal at the minute. as i said aswell i gave the painting an attempt but they turned out in a looking pretty botched… as much as i’d love to stick them, your probably right in best leaving it to the pros. and regarding the advice cliff gave me, i didn’t have much luck with the cellulose thinner as it just seemed to do the same as the paint stripper had, though it did losen it up to be able to remove some bits.

Thanks that’s good advice

My reply to your statement is above, just forgot to mention you in it

You are worrying unnecessarily. 12 mm is plenty and should last months or even years, depending how harsh you are on the brakes and how rusty the discs become.

I'd recommend a second opinion as the main dealer often has a habit of wanting to change parts early for upsale of work.

The sticky flakey layer is a form of lacquer which is likely why paint stripper is not shifting it. Try wiping with cellulose thinners or lacquer thinners.

Hi all. Yes. It’s chain. Air filter was changed at my request when I bought it. Only done 15,000 since then. Brake fluid due to be changed at service in May 2026. I’m getting a freebe but cost is normally £90. Local garage quoted same.

I think this is a common problem. Don't people usually remove them?

Done.

So, gearbox oil and filter changed, shifts seem smother. Also do a launch and all ok. I will leave it as is for next couple of weeks and if all ok get it back to stage one with the r600 air intake back in. If no more issues then that will be the topic resolved and if not il update again. Thanks for all the info/advise

Hope this link to online ETKA helps 😄 Online etka https://ifinterface.com/prog/car/cp2/inprog.php Welcome >> Free services >> Carprog2

Unused: Professionally Refurbished 10 spoke Audi 18” alloy wheel with new Bridgestone Turanza tyre Colour: Titanium Grey with Diamond Cut Size: 7.5J x 18, ET 51, PCD 5 x 112.0 Audi Part Number: 8V0601025AM Purchased from Full Moon Wheels Ltd, Preston – Lots of 5 star reviews and they have an excellent reputation. Genuine Audi wheel. Professionally refurbished, powder coated in high quality original Audi matt grey, diamond cut and powder lacquered. No cracks and no buckle. Wheel was checked on balancing machine. Fitted with brand new Bridgestone Turanza T005 225 x 40R18 92Y AO tyre. Includes brand new Audi centre cap and wheel cover. The wheel and tyre have never been fitted to a car as I changed my car a couple of months after buying this as a spare for my previous 2020 Audi A3, and is no longer needed. For sale for £250 for wheel, tyre, centre cap and cover – I do not want to split. I would prefer collection from Whitchurch, Cardiff but willing to travel up to 50 miles to meet up after payment of £50 non-refundable deposit.

Instrument cluster failure is well known on the 8p. If you've bought it from a dealer then get it back to them asap.

So, update on the gearbox issues. It’s been very intermittent. Done it on Thursday and has been fine since. At mechanics here. Said it could be the gearbox oil needs changed as it’s approaching 70k miles. I told him I changed the oil at 65k but just got it at the motor factors. He said that may not have been the right oil and always goto Audi. Got a long wait as the won’t give me a courtesy car 😢

Thanks Spartacus, it was something like that! The tag on the underside of the connector has to be pulled outwards, it simply bends a bit and detaches a tiny latch inside. Awkward little blighter but all done now, contacts sprayed (they looked a bit green) and problem has gone away.

Tons of them on Fleabay & Amazon, all pretty cheap.

Sounds like it's that then.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Looks lovely 🙂

Update- I seem to have fixed this issue by resetting the MMI- so far so good.

Hi Magnet. Yes - that's right After the all in one policy I had for two years, following the original two year warranty ran out, I've now taken out a 2 year service plan . Compared the cost of that with a local 4x4 garage , partners used for some time for a 4x4. . Main Audi came in cheaper. Nothing in it and I get to borrow a car for the day. Local garage don't offer that. 44000 mileage to date on my Audi and I now only do 3000 a year.

Thanks Doug, I have emailed the letter directly to Audi UK, but as you went through your local dealer and they honoured it I think i'll also send them one for good measure. Thanks

Thanks Cliff, There are a lot of factors to consider. There are pros too. I'll do some more research.

There seem to be a lot of unknown factors in this conversion Steve, any one of which could bring the project to a dead stop. It is not something I would have taken on even 40 years ago when I was willing and able to get my hands dirty, unless there was certainty about the result.

Ah apologies

No probs please keep us posted on how you get on

Does sound like a megatronics unit unfortunately

Quick update on the gearbox issue. Mechanic told me to disconnect battery. Reconnected after half hour and to be fair the gearbox shifted seamlessly then went back into fault from 1-2. I’ve just got the stage 1 remap removed today and no issues at all so far. I’m wondering if the ecu map has caused this as I didn’t get the tcu done. It’s now booked in on the 7th to get looked at anyway. It’s so slow tho.

Hi the part number is on the hose, alternatively go on line there must be the worlds supply of silicone replacements.

Hi everyone Ive just retro fitted cruise control & DIS (driver information system) stalk to my 2006 B7 also did another lads from work last week. Its was fairly easy to do and for the £40 I paid for a second hand squib / levers , well worth the money! Ive put this video together on how to fit the stalks and run through the coding using a snap on scanner (in expert mode) Ive not gone into great detail explaining how I found the exact codes I needed to input but have put links to the rosstech site where the codes are explained a lot better , its fairly easy to get your head round once you have a quick read.. ive also put a link in the video description to a google drive file which again explains the procedures quite well. along as you can work out your correct codes you can follow my coding procedure but just entering the codes which suit your vehicle 🙂