Tech

Is this a 1.9 or 2.0 TDI, if 2.0 TDI is it 140 ps or 170 ps? Engine code if possible please (found on the sticker in the boot or on the inside front cover of the service book). Tech

Looks like an Audi original to me, although its hard to tell due to the glare from the flash. Dash mounted ones were few and far between but they are exactly the same as the type fitted under the centre armrest and require a cradle specific to your phone model. Your local Audi centre will be able to let you know if it is or not, or if you can upload some better pics for me? You might have Bluetooth enabled as well. Have you tried searching for the car with your phone? You'll have to try as soon as you've switched the ignition on as the visibility period only lasts a few minuets. The default passcode is 1234 unless it has been changed.

All technical data produced by Audi is when using 98 RON (super unleaded) fuel, thought you might like to know...

Hmm, the 3.2 is normally a really strong engine and doesn't usually have many problems. There has been a few instances of bad connections at the throttle body caused by movement of the connector pins but usually this would bring the EPC light on straight away. I have seen cases of faulty fuel pumps (G6) which can occasionally leave one or two spiral shaped peices of swarf in the bottom of the tank (not on all cases), however this normally happens only when the car has about 1/4 of a tank of fuel or less left. Have you tried filling the tank with a decent quality fuel (i.e. BP/Shell etc rather than 'supermarket' fuel)? The fuel filter is fitted for life and does not have a recommended replacement interval, although if you do find traces of swarf, you might want to consider replacing it. I doubt however, that a blocked filter would cause these symptoms, it would more likely cause a sensation of hesitation under full throttle.

Have you got a little more detail on your TT Batman? (model year, engine code, S-tronic or manual, FWD or quattro, Coupe or Roadster etc). Cheers, Tech.

Mark has posted an SSP in the 'Audio/Video/electronics' section which details pretty much what I said above. Might be an interesting read for some people.

Yeah, unfortunately, they do not come pre-fitted with the required hardware as standard (unlike many A1's, Q3's and all the new A3's). Therefore, if it didm;t come from factory with it, it hasn't got it. The versions on the A6 which do not have nav have the smaller monochrome red screen and four function buttons on the MMI control instead of eight (it will have radio, media, tel, car but missing nav, directory, setup and info. They are also missing the navigation module in the boot. Personally I find a TomTom does just as good job but the updates cost a fraction of the price! It just doesn't have the 'built in' feel.

Hi all. Is the EPC light on G4VHD? It does indeed sound like an EPC fault (electronic power control, the fly by wire throttle pedal to throttle body arrangement). The throttle pedal with the sensor will be quite easy to remove and can be tested using a basic digital multimeter by carrying out a resistance test and pressing the pedal slowly to check the plausibility of the reading. Unfortunately I can not remember which pins you need to be checking (as you can probably appreciate, it is difficult to remember all the wiring diagrams for older cars off the top of my head). It may also be worth getting a cheap fault code reader or seeing if anybody near you has one (better still a VAGcom) and tell me what fault is stored in the ECU event memory (if any). If I remember rightly, sometimes the throttle body was fused separately on older 1.8T engines so it might be worth looking at the fuse list too. By the way, if you can find somebody with a VAG com, you could read the throttle pedal position through measured value blocks and save having to remove it to check with a multimeter. You could also carry out a basic setting on the throttle body to verify it is working properly. Hope this helps, Tech.

Thanks Glen, its nice to feel welcome. Hopefully I can be of some use with regards to technical advice to members on here too (hence the name ha)

Hi everyone, I'm new. I'm the proud owner of a new (8V chassis) A3 hatch. Cheers, Tech

Ha, no problem

Remove the plenum chamber cover and you will see the two rubber coolant hoses running up to the bulkhead. Use pliers to carefully move the spring hose clamp back on the upper hose and then pull the hose back but not all the way off. You should be able to pull it back enough to expose a small hole in the pipe the hose connects on to. Allow the air to bleed out of here (engine running and heaters on full). Once the air is expelled, push the hose back into place and fit the spring clamp back into position. Hope this helps

The navigation eject button is disabled. This is set from factory as an anti theft protection mode (to stop the expensive DVD going missing from leaving factory to arriving at the Audi dealership). It simply needs enabling by changing an adaption channel in the unit. A five minuet job for an Audi dealer. DO NOT STRIP THE UNIT!

It might be worth removing the fuse for the instrument cluster and leaving it out for half an hour (with the ignition off) then re-fitting it. I can't promise that will work, but its worth a try for nothing.

Sounds to me like the ECU is loosing either its terminal 30 or the terminal 50 feedback. I'd be checking all the feeds and earths and potential difference to/from the ECU before even considering replacing it.

Its not a fault with the timing chain, it is the chain tensioner, although if you was changing the tensioner it would be a more economical repair to have the chain and chain guide replaced at the same time. This used to be common with the ALT code engine with similar mileage to yours.

If your car had MMI high than it would have sat nav. Unfortunately retrofitting sat nav is not possible with the current hardware in the vehicle, as it does not have the nav control unit installed or the correct controller interface (the buttons in front of the gear leaver).

Factory specified wheel alignment settings for your vehicle will no longer apply, as it has been lowered.

Batteries need to be coded to the energy management ECU with regards to battery make, capacity and serial number. This is to ensure the energy management does not cut the current shut off stages in too early or late by not knowing the capacity and charge state of the battery. Therefore coding is vital otherwise you could find things like your electric opening tailgate etc stop working for no reason. This is the same with all modern Audi's

Good oil should help but it might be ideal to get the balancer shaft module replaced and converted to spur drive, as this will prevent you getting caught out and having to replace the turbo/vacuum pump etc if the unit did fail.

Hi Whoosh/Glen, all the lights on the A3, as with all modern Audis, are not fused. They are powered directly from the Central Electics Control unit J519. This control unit can detect current draw out of defined operating values and shut power off to the light as required. It alway tests for a short or open circuit when you switch on the ignition and logs a fault in its internal fault memory if a bulb is blown (open circuit). Only the cars with Xenon headlamps have fuses for the power control modules. Hope this helps.