Stevey Y

Hi sorry none of the suggestions worked out, I use my car as a cab and recently I see in my travels an increasing number of Golf Buggies attached to the back of rescue vehicles, mostly Jaecoos, I am just hoping to never have to buy one before I retire as the council want all cabbies to have electric vehicles which is why a lot of short timers like myself keep applying for extensions when the vehicles life has allegedly expired, one guy has just got another year on his fourteen plate Mondeo which gives me hope. Steve.

Hi clean the screen and the front grille, wait until it gets cooler then try it. Steve.

Hi the B6s although a different price are far and away better regarding durability and longevity as they use a monotone system rather than twin tube which as they get older will suffer with oil foaming under stress, example B4s are very good but on the Mondeo they clapped out after 70k, B6s lasted 120k and that was hard milage, got B4s on the Passat and they seem to be lasting well but I put that down to the Passat being very much lighter. Steve.

Hi most of what you have there are sensor faults probably due to the weather and the camera system above the mirror, in 30 degrees today my Passat started all that with road sign recognition, adaptive cruise control, speed warning, lane assist all unavailable, only difference is the car still drives and does what it should because its a conventional diesel and the drive train is not connected to any of that crap, your problem is the software dictates that if you get more than one problem it affects the steering module which then shats itself and the message appears. Steve.

Hi only ever suggest parts I have used to good effect and trust, the Kilen springs I have used on a few vehicles and never had a wrong un, its the same as when I had to buy a oil level sensor for the A6, Audi wanted over £160 but guess what I bought a Febi unit for £60 all in and found the casting numbers were the same as the oe unit and someone had ground the VAG logo off, upon checking it turns out Febi made them for Audi oe, therefore Kilen probably make springs for Sachs who badge engineer the packaging and charge more, its the way of the world, to remove any doubt your existing suspension was developed at full load and was designed to exceed that loading by at least 40%, the equation is if you use the same spec components with slightly stiffer shocks all will be perfect, believe me your area has not got a monopoly on holes and speed bumps. Steve.

Hi yes you don't need stiffer springs as the B6s will effectively cope by making the spring compression much smoother and more progressive, you can use the sport springs with good effect as factory lowered is just under 25mm try Kilen springs as these are cold manufactured and very robust and won't break the bank. brakes the bigger the better is not quite true for the rears as they only even in emergency conditions receive a lower amount of pressure than the fronts which you may want to use bigger everything but I can't see the point when good quality standard discs and pads do the job, example, I was watching a police documentary with a car chase over thirty odd miles at speeds of over seventy miles per hour through country roads, eventually the officer had to pull over as his o/s front pads were smoking but his car still stopped, then ask yourself the question am I going to be doing that a lot?, good quality fluid pads and discs will do the job. Steve.

Hi tried deleting the associated code run it for a while and re scan to see what returns

Hi just use standard springs and the B6 shocks the outcome will be the same better handling without ground clearance issues, with regard to the brakes why bigger?, if you use standard discs that are high carbon ATE, MEYLE, they will be more than adequate especially if you use Comma ESP4 fluid and Delphi or Brembo pads, I use the same on my cab and believe me with the milage I do they stop every time and with regular fluid changes I get loads of miles out of my brakes, it works, your braking system was designed to meet every possible contingency of highway driving unless you decide to track day the car, I went through this with my Titanium X Sport Mondeo Estate and what I have described works, as soon as you start introducing spacing hardware you create different geometry problems and with regard to the bolts see if you can get stainless replacements all problems solved. Steve.

Hi clan the axle and use a good quality marine grade black, the bolts are stretch and new is recommended, the B6 if you read the write up is suitable for standard or factory lowered set ups because the rebound cushion is built into the bottom of the unit, to quote Sparticus Lemforder are OE, Steve.

Hi the starting could be glow plugs, if you go through the site archive there are loads of threads on the pitfalls of dubious remaps, also you could try replacing the fuel regulator valve on the end of the rail these often play around when old and are cheap and easy to fit. Steve.

Hi nothing will throw up stop/start problems more than a bad battery also the stop start won't work if you have the aircon on, a bad battery will cause all sorts of weird problems as these vehicles rely heavily on voltage continuity, sluggish is the last gasp before you start getting Can gateway problems, bet if you plugged it in there would be a few low voltage faults, don't know what milage you have but I never replaced my starter in over 200,000 miles, mind you I never used the stop/start as it knackers you r flywheel and ring gear. Steve.

Hi paint the subframe as powder coating won't stick properly to any pits in the metal most rust proof paints are flexible and don't mind the odd rough patch, regard to the void rustproofing buy some nylon bungs around 6mm and drill holes where you can't get in and a good rust proofing kit for sills etc have a plastic hose with a spray end, push that into the hole as far as you can and spray whilst gently pulling the hose out, most inner void sprays work on capillary action and the mist from the spray coats pretty much everything, I know people don't like Waxoyl but used properly it is brilliant and once the plastic bungs are pushed home in the pilot holes its all moisture proof. Steve.

High beam assist works from a camera in the screen under the mirror. Steve.

Hi anything that is either second hand or a pattern part, try Nirro on line for second hand. Steve.

If you think replacing the DPF is expensive wait until at a later date the problems start, thats really expensive, try buying a second hand unit and having it professionally cleaned then fitted its a hell of a lot cheaper. Steve.

Hi the B6 is about the best compromise as they work with either conventional ride hight or factory lowered just remember to release the piston from its transport strap and push it all the way down and let it return at least six times to prime the monotube system as these work differently from twin tube, yes the rear sub frame has voids but you can get around this by using a product called Bilt Hamber, they do a range of rust removal and rust proofing, it ain't cheap but its top notch, my friend did his 1981 Porsche 911 with it a few years ago and it definitely works, with regard to the bushes poly is easier to fit but gives more road resonance when fitted and will take at least two years to calm down and bed in to an acceptable level, a very wise engineer I met that looked after racing cars at Snetterton once told me if you want good handling on a road car use standard heavy duty springs and stiffer shocks and a good branded rubber bush, if you get a new frame just change the bushes for peace of mind and bare in mind how long the originals last, use Meyle or Lemforder, if your mate is bringing power tools for the brakes tell him to not use them until you have the bolt moving which requires a blowtorch and plenty of plus gas anti seize and patience as these threads will ring out given half a chance, if you consider the amount of heat a calliper works with you can't realistically overheat them, once off I would replace the units anyway in view of the fact that 90% of callipers are refurbished even the dealer units. and bolt wise invest in a Sealy Wall Drive sockets as that system will never round the the bolts off as it grips the flat sided bit of the bolt. Steve.

Hi Steve B6 shocks as B8s are far to stiff and allied to the poly bushed subframe will be like driving over a permanent cattle grid, never mind dish washing the header tank just buy a new one you will be amazed how far plastic technology has come on since the early two thousands, just bought a new tank for my daughters GLA, dealer price over £80 partsinmotion £35, look at the casting numbers and they are the same. Steve.

Hi if the DPF is gutted its been remapped as well most likely, this is the source of the smoke and most probably the EGT sensors are well out of sync the whole system was designed around lowering gas temperature to eliminate Nox1 emissions so its a fine balance, I ran my car to three times your milage by addressing each problem as it cropped up and sticking to design as factory, its not a good system as standard but due to the complexity of the engine software tampering with said software long term is like throwing a time bomb into a dinner party, unfortunately you only have two choices revert what's been done and have the ECU taken back to standard program which won't be cheap, or sell the car as is, removal of the DPF core causes higher exhaust temps downstream and robs the turbo of the back pressure it requires to maintain boost pressure therefore promoting overrun, in short it causes the engine to become FUBAR. Steve.

Hi try any/all of previous suggestions but at that milage I would check the DPF loadings ash/soot as a blocked DPF could cause some of these problems does the car regenerate regularly. Steve.

Hi Gareth, not cheap enough with that sort of comprehensive service history, its an old car yes but probably worth the money when you consider its unmolested and one of the last of the reliable [ROBUST] builds, stick to the price, cheaper means like most of them we get on here with bits missing no history and a dash display that would put Blackpool to shame. Steve.

Hi no the insertion tang breaks off when the insertion tool bottoms out so you end up with what looks very much like the old thread but is actually stronger, the idea of the torque setting is that the copper washer is a crush gasket so has no finite crush levels which is why they are domed but after use come out flat. Steve.

Hi did you do an adaptation on the MAFF, you did not mention the knocking before as this could be a whole other level as a worn crank or big ends would cause piston shudder which unsettles the oil control rings thus it starts burning its own oil, are you losing oil, just a question you haven't had any emissions equipment deleted?. Only other thing it could be is the PCV valve could have gone try disconnecting it from the intake and see if it still does the smoking. Steve

Hi used helicoil for years and never had a problem as they are a high tensile material which won't corrode and is ideal for that type of application, normally used after someone has gone barmy tightening the thing up thats the reason for low NM torque wrenches, if it was tight coming out use a liberal amount of Plus gas wait an hour the heat gently with a blow torch and they fly out. Steve.

Hi running way to rich, change the MAP and MAFF sensor as those two will cause over fuelling and smoke especially at idle, also check DPF soot and ash loadings, check air filter and housing for blockage, my bet is its MAP/MAFF related. Steve.

Hi go on YouTube if its a V engine absolutely loads about this its mostly to do with the timing chains and cam gears. Steve.