Stevey Y

Hi can't beat Charles Trent, my daughters Mercedes bonnet arrived today and absolutely mint in the right colour, never had a problem with anything from them, shame the other guy didn't explain what was wrong with his original units as there are a couple of places that repair them. Steve.

Hi the letter is a build year denomination, if its the same part with a different letter it probably was manufactured a few years later. Steve.

Hi go on line and try just German parts they sell all the connector blocks. Steve.

Hi this is a classic case for buying a decent scanner as that will allow you to go through the live data as well as tell you codes if you work out how much you have spent over 5/6 times you could have bought OBDEleven and done your own diagnosing. Steve.

Hi get the car diagnostically scanned, at the moment you are throwing money at it hoping to hit the sweet spot, codes will tell you everything you need to know, could be anything from a crank sensor to low fuel pressure on a car that age. Steve

Hi if you remove the hoses there is more than likely a silicon hose company that will replicate them for you provided you are not using them for fuel, try ASH on line. Steve

Hi can't see the code in the picture its to small or I auto old, please publish the code, it might just be the regulator on the rai playing up. Steve.

Hi best find out what the lights about first, sometimes depending who did the map they can't back track so you could be buying a host of expensive crap, not sure why people do this the car is plenty fast enough standard and chances are its an over fuelling issue. Steve.

Hi if you want to buy a proper scanner software buy VCDS its pretty cheap at the moment and with life time updates its worth a look. Steve.

Hi you could start by taking off the intake pipes to the turbos and check the intake impeller for float and movement side to side, anything up to a millimetre is not to bad, floppy definitely is not. If you have no excessive movement try a can of spray down the intake turbo cleaner. Steve.

Hi you said you dont agree with the myth of discs warping, its not a myth if its happening, you cannot deny the laws of physics and metallurgy, discs expansion/contraction rates are worked out before they are made to accommodate the various states of tune for each vehicle, performance vehicles generally have a higher grade of carbon steel to cope with the extra thermal stress and I have found that these very rarely warp even when subjected to a binding calliper it usually cooks the brake pads to the point where they crumble instead, most of these problems are caused by old brake fluid that has a high water content which settles around the pistons and rots part of the piston chrome covering then causes primary seal failure. Steve.

Hi anything 14 on won't do it on VCDS, I now have a 2021 Passat and thats the same, the swirl flap issue will always throw the mixture out in your case they were probably partially closed which would account for the over rich fuelling which in turn will block the DPF the only solution to that one is buy a delete kit which keeps the flaps wide open, on the later diesel Audis the swirl system is fixed in the throttle body as part of the casting where it attaches to the intake manifold. Steve.

Hi you can't do a static regen on a car that year because the DPF is mounted within the engine bay right next to the CAT, VCDS won't do it it will only allow regen whilst driving, believe me I tried loads of times with my one, I contacted Ross Tech and they agreed it won't happen as there is a high probability of setting the car alight due to where the DPF is mounted and having no airflow. Steve.

Hi brake disc warp is a fact I have done loads of them, I usually run a dial gauge on the disc, some of the worst running out about forty thou usually caused by sticky calliper slides or pad runner surfaces which cause the discs to run way above their heat range therefore when they cool they don't revert back to a uniform shape, another culprit for this anomaly is sitting at a junction with your foot on the brake as the brake pads act as a heat sink so absorb heat and help dissipate the heat so if they are being held against the disc they transfer heat back in to the disc this is termed as localised hot spots which will warp a vented disc. Steve.

Hi use brake calliper paint, clean off the rust and use the paint brush type of paint, use a light coat first, allow to dry and then apply a second coat, alternatively use the spray type and mask the disc. Steve.

Hi thank you for the codes, basically the EGR is toast, your boost pressure solenoid is on its way out, this is a replaceable item but the underlying issues range from a sticking valve in the turbo body to something as simple as a vacuum leak in the pipe to the solenoid, 0652 is probably the MAF sensor knackered, which I would advise changing the MAP sensor as well as these rely heavily on information correlation, the boost sensor sounds like its alternating between overboost and under boost the overboost will cause the knocking noise, if a new solenoid won't cure it I am afraid the turbo will need replacing. Steve.

Hi if the manifold flaps are stuck that won't help as that is what causes the air vortex in to the cylinders thus mixing your fuel/air ratios, my guess with the EGR is that no not blocked but stuck shut/open either way that will put you in limp, if you can scan the car again codes are always helpful also check soot/ash loadings in the DPF as blocking can cause excessive back pressure, hence the fumes in the engine bay, I also think your engine mounts may be past their usable life. Steve.

Hi the service items are fairly cheap aftermarket FEBI,BOSCH etc, the TPMS is on there somewhere as far as I am aware you can't delete it as its a law based requirement, as for serving that can be either 9k-15k, personally I would opt for 9k otherwise you can have problems and always use VAG rated 05-30 504/507, the DPF SYSTEM IS GARBAGE so I would get myself some VCDS so you can keep an eye on the soot and especially the ash levels, cam belts and clutches are expensive and worth replacing if you have no history, and yes the diff will need servicing otherwise the viscous couplings self destruct they don't like old oil. Steve.

Hi yes they went over to aluminium bodies and then back to plastic when they found out how much the metal was costing, premium cars, my opinion, they are no better than any other manufacturer they will cut corners wherever they can and charge fortunes for plastic parts. Steve.

Hi its the aux pump if you run them dry they spin round and damage the impeller motor, thats the mechanical bit, they are a plastic piece of crap, it won't overheat as the aux pump only works at the end of the journey if its a high ambient temp and also works if you are working on the coolant system and with the ignition off if you open a door it starts cycling and pumps your coolant all over the floor, work that out. Steve.

Hi sorry for the late reply, you either have a cloned version or your version needs reloading, where did you get it from, Steve.

Hi probably the twice as thick aftermarket spring and the oversize wheels which won't allow a lot of movement when going over bumps, therefore it pulls the lower arm bushings and takes it out on the tyres. Steve.

Hi is it a cloned version of VCDS ?, to get to live data you should go to select click on engine then go to advanced measuring and then scroll through live data options, you might have to do the security access first but it gives you the code to get into the engine anyway. Steve.

Hi that sounds about right, hopefully its one of the three. Steve.

Hi its the swirl flaps sticking, there may be a delete kit for it but either way the manifold will have to come off and be cleaned, the code means the flaps can't move within the specified range, you may get lucky at this stage and get away with just cleaning it and getting it moving. Steve