Stevey Y

Hi a couple of six inch lengths of 4x2 wood between the axle stand and the cross member the stands dig in to the wood thats good for movement protection the other side spreads the load across the member.

Hi a fan inside, thats a new one, what a load of Scallops, there is no such thing its just wrong and thats it.

Hi yes normally O2 sensors need changing every 80k or five years if yours is the original I think you can safely say its had its fun. Steve.

Hi I very much doubt it has spacers as they are not factory fitted and my colleague who trades used cars informs me that when they buy from the auction site near me after purchase the wheels are stripped off and the brakes inspected/replaced within the guidelines of the motor trade sale of goods requirements, any spacers are discarded as they were not factory fitted and at most are 4mm and mostly found on aftermarket wheels, the spacers are to correct the wheel offset back to factory tolerances either way they use the existing bolts as these are within spec for the manufacturers 7mm requirement, I think you must be confusing the VAG globalisation policy as you mentioned Triumph Stags which were British Leyland who had different wheel bolts for every model and wheel, this outmoded practice has been scrapped by VAG as every model using the same 17mm bolt is the same, hence globalisation, one part fits ALL.

Hi can't work out your thinking, you were right about the bolts going into the disc but it will only be going in to the hub boss and no where near the friction surface, the hub flange has to be at least two inches from the bearing housing so worse ways the bolts would only go in an extra 5mm, with the advent of space savers in Europe type approval dictated you could use the same bolts within a 7mm tolerance to accommodate the tin wheel, allied to the fact that most alloy wheels have recessed holes to counter the bite distance between the wheel and flange there fore an extra 5mm of thread wont foul anything.

Hi I removed the two heater connections at the bulkhead and let it have it both ways with a jet wash through the metal tubes that run to the matrix, if its a tight fit find a suitable piece of rubber hose and connect that, alternatively disconnect one side from the matrix and the the header tank cap off then flush it from the disconnected hose, jet wash is better as it blasts the cr@p out, I really would recommend changing the thermostat as mine was about 2mm open and stuck so most of the hot water was going out of the bypass system and not through the matrix.

Hi had the same problem with my A6 but the principles are the same, had to change the thermostat and back flush the heater matrix because the silica bag in the header tank had burst and the crystals were blocking one side of the heater matrix. Steve.

Hi hope he is OK not nice but my guess is its the cylinder let go and squirted brake fluid on to something hot or electrical live, brake fluid only has a flash point of 7c.

Thats fine by me

Hi most likely culprit is the clutch master cylinder this has a clutch position sensor on top of it and is part of the master cylinder, as the cylinder wears it measures the amount of fluid going past it and if its not within range it plays up, best policy is get the car scanned and see which faults come up.

Hi the bulbs are easy to change, the condensation occurs for the following reasons, the vent tube on the side of the unit has either blocked or fallen off, the bulb cover seal has lost its elasticity and failed, the cover is accessible by the inspection port in the wheel arch liner, take it off then with the cover removed on the unit use the hairdryer, clear all debris from the mating surface between the bulb housing and cover finally give the rubber seal a good coating of silicone grease. Steve.

Hi if you could be bothered to do the leg work the information you require is already there I cite the case of jdragon who posted a copies amount of information about his DPF, A5 Q5 A6 A4 all use the same engine but with different engine designations,CNHA DETA etc but the common denominator is they all run the same SCR system that is prone to blocking the low pressure EGR cooler, even if you had googled it that would have produced multiple pages on the subject, p2002 DPF trap 1 above threshold, this job is expensive around a grand, when you buy a second hand Audi it should be observed that this anomaly will occur at some point during your ownership due to Adblue crystals blocking it the only preventative maintenance is use good quality Adblue/fuel and a proprietary fuel additive, with reference to the views how are people find out what you require without looking at the post, maybe they looked and didn't have any experience of the problems and moved on without posting something stupid in reply, what annoys me most is people posting on a subject without the most basic research pertaining to problems they may encounter, they then expect a spoon fed reply, mostly because its FREE their sense of entitlement is breathtaking, it comes under the sub heading of educating yourself, even if you had posted P2002 might that happen to the car I am about to purchase that would maybe get a response, this is a good forum where people will only either post based on experience or at least give an educated guess, I personally have learned from this forum and can concur with the theory that why spend time and effort telling you about a problem that may never occur during your ownership if its got no real milage and you are likely to do not a great deal more during your ownership.

Hi as I said a scan will throw up a definitive answer, a code is the clue to fixing this.

Hi jason, the means of priming the new filter is once fitted turn the the ignition on without starting the car and leave for 20 seconds then turn off repeat this procedure at least ten times then it will start, the lift pump fills the filter, as for purging the HPFP this has not been necessary since 2004 when all manufacturers converted over to the self bleeding HPFP which dissipates any air in the unit via the return circuit on the pump which sends air bubbles back to the tank. Steve.

Hi the only way you will find out what this is will be to get the vehicle scanned preferably with VCDS as this will tell you the why and what the offending part is, might be something as simple as readapting it or a software update.

Hi if you want to see what a blocked PCV will do look at the late Ford Transit, my fellow cab driver has a 20 plate and in short was suffering the same symptoms as you he even murdered the DPF and EGR Valve and multiple crankshaft seals before they narrowed it down to the PCV which is integrated in the rocker cover and had been changed 40k ago, any bore wear will cause excess crankcase pressure which would normally escape through the PCV, Positive Crankcase Ventilation system, if it can't escape the gas will take the path of least resistance, seals, back up the bores and ultimately destroy the Turbo as it will cause oil feed fluctuations to that unit, gone are the days when a tube venting into the world and filled with wire wool to stop the oil getting out will do. Steve.

Hi you will have to establish what type of headlight bulb you have, my guess is D3s but yours was the changeover year and could be D5s which have the ballast built in to the bulb casing, the D3s has a separate ballast bolted to the bottom of the light, you don't have to remove the headlight unit as you can get to the back of it via a removable plate on the wheel arch liner this gives access to the bulb housing via unscrewing the cap on the back of the unit, its fairly straight forward if the back of the bulb has D3s stamped on it replace the ballast and bulb, if its D5s you just replace the bulb, personally I have always replaced both sides as the other old bulb wont be far behind the one replaced, I have actually posted a while ago my refitting D5s bulbs on my 2016 A6 its probably in that archive somewhere, but establish which type of bulb you have first. Steve.

Hi what on earth are you asking for, torsion bar ratings, Audi don't use them, not on about TORQUE ratings are we thats easily solved as its on the internet, the only way realtime to get exactly what your car is producing is give it a run on a dynamometer.

Hi OBD Eleven is a good shout and not expensive.

Hi Phil, no deeper reason I have seen a lot of this type of things mostly Ford headlights one of which took me two hours to cut and shut 30 wires and solder them, the earth wires on the plug side normally rot back under the plastic coating you can tell that because the wire underneath is brown and not bright copper, this is caused by moisture ingress and the only real way to stop it is put a hefty coat of silicone grease around the outside of the plug when refitting. Steve.

Hi have you tried heating the unit with a blowtorch this often loosens up any corrosion.

Hi if the car has been service regularly there is no need to change the chain unless it is noisy, what is the lifetime of the car, how long is a piece of string!.

Hi thats an earth connection gone bad and heated up you wont get anywhere with that one I would also check the reciprocating terminal on the plug as it often burns that as well, only way round it if you don't want to buy a new unit and harness plug is if you can get into the back of the bit in the picture take the pin out replace the wire on that pin as far back as possible then either replace the pin or drill through the back of the grey part just above the plug, run the new wire through that'd join it at the back of the plug wiring, correct cable for that terminal, if you put in a pull free connector on your new bit of wiring you can disconnect it any time you like. Steve.

Hi the auto boxes have two clutches one wet one dry and yes they are a fortune to replace because the shimming out of the wet clutch is labour intensive.