Stevey Y

Hi you could try a diagnostic scan and see what that throws up, if nothing try reading the live data on injectors, EGT sensors, MAF sensor, EGR valve. Steve.

Hi believe me I had this on my Audi, they have been economising on part quality since 2014 and they dont care as it adds work to the dealers. Steve.

Hi if its fitted with the rubber pad under the boot lid its quite possible the switch pads inside are corroded and have failed, you should hear the latch mechanism click when you press it. Steve.

Hi you can probably get a repair connector with wires on line Just German Parts do a fair range on eBay, is all you have to do is marry up the wires and make soldered connections with regard to the second hand ECU just get one of the many repair places to check it out before fitting. Steve.

Hi drilled discs give quicker cooling but drilled and grooved will eat pads because of the grooves, best policy use standard Brembo or ATE Parts. Steve.

Hi no its just electric cars in general, I expect someone would do the ARB bushes as they are pretty run of the mill but be advised a lot of later VAG vehicles require you to buy the whole roll bar as the fixings with the bushes are welded so you can't just replace the rubber bit, just occurred to me the other thing to check would be the lower rear arm [Banana] arm as the are Hydro bushes, easy way to check these turn wheel from standing, then move forward very slowly and listen for the clonk, stop and repeat in reverse. Steve.

Hi thats a pretty comprehensive replacement list for a car thats only done 65k, the only other candidates would be drop links or ARB bushings, never worked on one of these before and none of the local garages I use will touch them, in fact they avoid them like Vampires avoid Holy Water in saying that I assume the suspension set ups are the same as their fossil fuelled brothers. Steve

Hi the thermostat housing is to the right hand side of the engine and has two smaller thermostats within it if it is a CN designated engine with the aluminium inlet manifold, its a sod to get to and normally requires the removal of the inlet manifold. Steve.

Hi the pictures not that clear, but a serious guess, its fuel filter cover and someones snapped/lost the fixings ad Heath Robinsoned the rest with cable ties. Steve.

Hi unfortunately these cars are high maintenance I found that out during my ownership, three EGR coolers three clutches, back in the good old days if you bought a pre Adblue model you were probably on to a good bargain, I can see the attraction of floating about in a solid piece of German engineering but I dont think anyone factors in repair costs or research known problems, there are a lot of owners on here that have had the same problems with newer/lower milage cars so dont think your problems are exclusive, I do a lot of plug ins for a local garage I use if they are offered the chance to buy an old high milage VAG vehicle, did a retired 2017 Skoda Octavia cab 270k it had a few faults but considering what they paid for it £500 after a DSG service and a DPF clean it made a 1st class pool car, my advice would be when buying any car to have it scanned first, if they decline WALK AWAY! if they accept you will at least know what problems are looming and make an educated decision . Steve.

Hi sorry multiple issues, the first code will need actual soot and ash loading figures to assess if the DPF is salvageable, the second code is probably the lift pump in the fuel tank, the left engine mount is in need of replacement, and then the dreaded P200 which is the low pressure EGR cooler which feeds gas from the main EGR back in to the system and clogs with gunge and Adblue crystals, the high beam assist you can live without and the rear wiper motor needs to be viewed working to see if any water actually comes out, if not the pipe that feeds the water has probably come off the motor or its all blocked with gunge. My guess is the vehicle has done some miles. Steve.

Hi you can bleed the fuel filter using the ignition, when you change the filter fill the new one as much as possible with fuel [messy] then once connected without starting the engine cycle the ignition on for at least ten second intervals twelve times, once its running leave for a minimum of five minutes to allow the HPFP to self bleed. Steve.

Hi I would asses from the excellent information supplied that it may well be a MAF and MAP sensor problem. the reason I say this is the MAF very rarely throws a code unless totally fried, easy test for MAFF start engine and disconnect it if it makes no difference to the running the MAF is on its way out along with the MAP which it correlates info very closely and if these are out on readings the boost control is getting mixed signals and wont work properly. Steve.

Hi the new sensor should not throw it out in theory, but I only suggested the reset in the event of it running out of true once fitted, the Audi light range module is a strange creature that is very easily disturbed, I had it on my a6 where the n/s light was settling in the gutter, turned out it was the levelling motor gear getting stuck but the control module had accepted that as normal so I hosed the adjuster screw down with silicon spray then adjusted it with the lights on engine running, if you mark the adjuster with Tipex and count the turns you stand a chance of getting it back in the right ball park, I do hope yours is as case of plug in and play once the offending bracket has been replaced, please let us know the outcome. Steve.

Hi it is probably the bracket driving the range control module nuts as it wont hold a steady reading, replace the sensor and bracket go in to the light range module and do a manual reset then log that as the new setting. Steve.

Hi Gareth/Clifford, the faulty temperature sensor would have a massive bearing on the oil level as the ECU thinks the actual temperature is seventy degrees therefore the ECU will increase the amount of fuel injected to try and bring the engine up to the optimum operating temperature, the engine is physically up to temperature therefore the over fuel will cause oil dilution thus raising the level, me personally I would be changing the oil again Pronto as diluted oil causes extra bearing wear as it has now become abrasive. Steve.

Hi I think the sports cats are about the best idea, the original exhausts would be designed to allow optimum pulse flow for the engine if you remove all built in restrictions it can cause problems with back pressure at certain rev ranges which can lead to fuelling issues where the ECU consistently tries to adjust for excessive gas flow, back pressure is a must as it wont allow total cylinder evacuation of exhaust gas which in turn keeps cylinder head temperatures within their designed strategy by cooling the charge. Steve.

Hi if you get on your hands and knees and look under the car the transfer box in the middle and the rear differential are always visible you would have to go some to fake that. Steve.

Hi I always find the Quattro badge on the front grille is always a bit of a clue when buying, Steve.

Hi zero ppm is impossible, if you get a reading on the first sensor its working ok, but you for example are getting say sixty on the first sensor it should translate to ten down stream and then reduce as the extra adblue kicks in but in any case it will never reach perfect zero that only ever happens on cars post 2020 that have a further adblue injector in the pipe way after the DPF and then registers zero at the end of the tail pipe, there are no average or normal readings as each engine and its operation are unique, its only Euro 6 engines that have two nox sensors Euro 5 only have one in most cases. Steve.

Hi if the garage did the leak back test that is conclusive proof of your problem, if the car has done a lot of miles the offending injectors need replacing, most injector problems on low milage vehicles a couple of years old are normally down to cheap/bad fuel, it wont just run on four cylinders as the ECU wont suffer that lack of firing balance. Also the p51d code probably means the starter is on its way out. Steve.

Hi its definitely the rear crank seal behind the ring gear, [common problem] and its engine oil not gear oil. Steve.

Hi one of the sensors is in the group of sensors pre cat the other sensor will be post DPF the idea being the first sensor reports nox level to the ECU which then starts Adblue injection, the secondary sensor reports that the nox levels are still to high so the ECU pushes up the level of Adblue to compensate, downstream sensors are slightly different from upstream in build as the sampling core is different to account for the Adblue in the stream, generally speaking the downstream fails first as it has a harder life, both sensors should have different coloured plugs/ part numbers which denote upstream/downstream but if as you say the part numbers are the same you should be ok. Steve

Hi you will find that around 100k a lot of these things start happening if you replace the MAF its always the MAP sensor that needs changing with it as both those correlate their information, its the same with EGT sensors if you change them change the DPF pressure sensor as well, also you will get random oil leaks, I ran my car to over 270k, therefore I had most of their brands disgusting habits, crank seals, driveshaft seals, throttle body, low pressure EGR cooler with valve, high pressure EGR, front rear wishbones, front top mount pads, front control arms, all very expensive even in aftermarket. Steve.

Hi its one of the many WORRY lights that the Audi brand has you probably could easily have driven a thousand miles past the light, its just aggravating, the charge you had was excessive, the filter trade is about £10.00 and the oil £30 all the rest as they say is gravy. Steve.