Stevey Y

Hi the part number will be stamped on the original part at the back then try the breakers [junk yard]. Steve.

Hi just Google in drive shaft repairs in your area should come up with a fair list, ring round for prices. Steve.

Hi cheapest route is probably to get your existing unit rebuilt. Steve.

Hi if you get the car scanned it will probably show the faults as one time faults so get them cleared and see if they come back, the TPMS fault you can try getting all the tyres pumped to pressure then store the new value on the MMI. Steve.

Hi was the new battery coded to the car?. Steve.

Hi they will tell you its normal as I believe its something to do with the emergency brake assist software, I am like you I love that feeling when you press the pedal and its there, my Passat has a similar system but it only starts braking for you when it senses something solid about three feet from either front or rear bumper, other than that it behaves like a normal braking system, the stopping is commensurate with pedal pressure. Steve.

Hi when you put in service mode make sure you release the handbrake on the button first or it wont work. Steve.

Hi have you checked the lift pump in the tank, if you monitor its volume at idle and its around 5-600 the pump may well be on its way out. Steve.

Hi if you read some of the replies to that video you will note its a laser head lamp from a Range Rover circa 2018, this particular design was so successful they stopped making them after two years, because A the failure rate was astounding and B the replacement cost was also astounding, the LED lights on nearly all new Vag vehicles are designed with an alloy body which contains the control board which also stuffed full of silicon, so maybe that acts as a heatsink the same as the paste on chips in an ECU, Definitely no fans as I have had one apart on my Passat to repair a DRL, I was just trying to point out that for the O.Ps point of view any LED retrofit bulb with a fan unit attached was not a good idea. Steve.

Hi I think we are at crossed purpose what I need is the engine designation code, I.E. mine is CNHA that dictates where the sensor is positioned on my parts system either in the block or the thermostat housing depending on the engine type. Steve.

Hi can you tell me the engine code. Steve.

Have a look at the earlier Audis same problem, H7 bulbs give off massive amounts of heat which is why they changed to HID less than a third of the heat and brighter lights on less power, Halogen bulbs are typically used on non projector headlamps as they have a larger area for the heat to dissipate, common misconception is after market LED bulbs give less heat, WRONG! thats why they have cooling fans on the back of them, the original equipment LEDs dont have this. Steve.

Hi monitor the EGT sensors on live data if the readings dont rise quickly when revved the sensor is probably on its way out which would cause it to run lean at certain rpms. Steve.

Hi it more than likely that the glow plugs need changing, classic symptoms are it being easier to start when warm and being difficult when cold, easy test cycle the ignition on until the glow plug light goes out and repeat that at least twice if it improves the start thats your answer, no point in just leaving ignition on as the plug duty cycle expires and they just cool down again. Steve.

Hi the black adjuster moves the left to right adjustment the white adjuster does up and down the silver adjuster does the main beam left to right, leave that one alone, are your dipped beams projector lenses, can't see from the photos, if they are its most probably the reflective chrome in the bowl is burnt off at the top in which case it wont matter what bulbs you put in you wont get any light improvement. Steve.

Hi you could try a diagnostic scan and see what that throws up, if nothing try reading the live data on injectors, EGT sensors, MAF sensor, EGR valve. Steve.

Hi believe me I had this on my Audi, they have been economising on part quality since 2014 and they dont care as it adds work to the dealers. Steve.

Hi if its fitted with the rubber pad under the boot lid its quite possible the switch pads inside are corroded and have failed, you should hear the latch mechanism click when you press it. Steve.

Hi you can probably get a repair connector with wires on line Just German Parts do a fair range on eBay, is all you have to do is marry up the wires and make soldered connections with regard to the second hand ECU just get one of the many repair places to check it out before fitting. Steve.

Hi drilled discs give quicker cooling but drilled and grooved will eat pads because of the grooves, best policy use standard Brembo or ATE Parts. Steve.

Hi no its just electric cars in general, I expect someone would do the ARB bushes as they are pretty run of the mill but be advised a lot of later VAG vehicles require you to buy the whole roll bar as the fixings with the bushes are welded so you can't just replace the rubber bit, just occurred to me the other thing to check would be the lower rear arm [Banana] arm as the are Hydro bushes, easy way to check these turn wheel from standing, then move forward very slowly and listen for the clonk, stop and repeat in reverse. Steve.

Hi thats a pretty comprehensive replacement list for a car thats only done 65k, the only other candidates would be drop links or ARB bushings, never worked on one of these before and none of the local garages I use will touch them, in fact they avoid them like Vampires avoid Holy Water in saying that I assume the suspension set ups are the same as their fossil fuelled brothers. Steve

Hi the thermostat housing is to the right hand side of the engine and has two smaller thermostats within it if it is a CN designated engine with the aluminium inlet manifold, its a sod to get to and normally requires the removal of the inlet manifold. Steve.

Hi the pictures not that clear, but a serious guess, its fuel filter cover and someones snapped/lost the fixings ad Heath Robinsoned the rest with cable ties. Steve.

Hi unfortunately these cars are high maintenance I found that out during my ownership, three EGR coolers three clutches, back in the good old days if you bought a pre Adblue model you were probably on to a good bargain, I can see the attraction of floating about in a solid piece of German engineering but I dont think anyone factors in repair costs or research known problems, there are a lot of owners on here that have had the same problems with newer/lower milage cars so dont think your problems are exclusive, I do a lot of plug ins for a local garage I use if they are offered the chance to buy an old high milage VAG vehicle, did a retired 2017 Skoda Octavia cab 270k it had a few faults but considering what they paid for it £500 after a DSG service and a DPF clean it made a 1st class pool car, my advice would be when buying any car to have it scanned first, if they decline WALK AWAY! if they accept you will at least know what problems are looming and make an educated decision . Steve.