Stevey Y

Hi the anomaly with this is that sometimes it will show bank 1 because bank 3 is not suppling the correct information to bank 1 sometimes it is bank 1 but I normally always suspect bank 3 as this has the hardest life in the system you did the right thing pulling the plugs but if you have a reasonable diagnostic platform you can check the temp on each sensor in line and its usually the sensor that reads nowhere near the other two thats duff, I have even had it where the last sensor is reading -70 degrees, really!! the check for temp is available in the live data and if as you say one sensor made no difference I would assume thats the one. Steve. Steve.

Hi can't see the video but yeah that is pretty normal and it should go out after you start driving. Steve.

Hi any damage to a sidewall is a big NO and will get you nicked if you are stopped that would never pass an MOT, showed the picture to my friend who is an MOT tester, his comment, Nah! Steve.

Hi its the child safety process to tell you the bags is live in case you try to put a child seat in the front as if you do have a seat in there the bag has to be turned off. Steve.

Hi NO SEAL, the metal bonding has broken away in the middle. Steve.

Hi if there is no suspension joint wear, it could be anti roll bar bushes or top mount cushions you have not been specific about where and when the creaking occurs.

Hi just goes to show that probably with over a hundred years experience with cars between us we might just know something LOL. Steve.

Hi I have come across this problem a lot, most garages only check the soot levels, what about the ASH thats the killer as it can't be burnt off as its like carbon bricks which can only come out the way it went in so therefore your OBD reader was bang on with the high sevens, that was the ASH, I had this when I worked on a Q3 recently soot was fine up to a point but the ash was at 55%, had the DPF professionally cleaned [off car] reinstalled it with a new MAF/MAP and DPF Pressure sensor and EGT, now been perfect for the last couple of months, soot calculated never more than 20g, soot measured after a regen -4g and ash at 1.8g. All good for another 140k. Steve.

Hi under E.U. law it would be built with TPMS its in there somewhere but strongly believe that its probably the same as my Passat and it only works when the wheels are revolving, I had this with my car, got out there one morning and the rear n/s tyre is flat no warning the evening before, my local tyre shop told me the wheel has to be losing pressure whilst running along to trigger the dash warning, just to prove the point a couple of months later I had two new tyres from the garage I use, tyres fitted and going home almost immediately got big display in the middle of the dash saying check o/s rear tyre pressure, but they are both new, went back they checked the pressure and it was perfect, then one of the engineers spotted that the rear o/s was 225x50x17 when it should have been 225x55x17 so the pressure monitors only work when the wheels are turning and monitor the o/d of the tyre when all pressures are correct and registered on the MMI. Steve.

Hi if the MAF and MAP sensors information dont add up to what the ECU expects it goes in to default strategy and wont allow boost from the turbo, its all about the correlation between the two sensors the MAF can be on its way out but not throw a code, same with the MAP just thought I would suggest this as the cheaper options before going for a new turbo, both sensors get weak at about 80k. Steve.

Hi it could be a faulty MAP and MAF sensor if its the turbo you will have to buy a new unit so try the sensors first. Steve.

Hi shame you did not mention that in your original post would have saved the wrong possible diagnosis, ah well good luck.

Hi, if it was a cheap battery, and you did not code it in there lies the problem, no coding means it will carry on charging at the same rate as the old battery. Steve.

Hi you quoted that you wanted something reliable and the car proffered is over 100k, with that sort of milage things will go wrong therefore I think a new clutch could be the least of your problems in the future, take in to consideration EGR valves, swirl flaps, sensors, oil leaks, fuel pumps, the derivatives are endless, as I stated before the legendary reliability of Audi is built upon the older models Euro4, a very wise car trader once said, you wont find a perfect old high milage car as a free gift in a packet of Cornflakes. Steve.

Hi the crank position sensor is at the back of the engine where the gearbox meets the engine, bit of a sod to get to but doable, then again looking at your symptoms I would be inclined to look at the DMF or Mechatronics unit which would be favourite as these things only ever throw a code when they are really knackered, I understand the process that replacing the position sensor is the cheapest option to start with and hopefully that will cure it. Steve.

Hi I think you will find that the only LED bulbs for indicators are aftermarket probably Chinese these will fail pretty quick and the bulbs fitted O.E. are long life and very rarely fail, had the same bulbs on my car for 270k and never had one fail, your choice. Steve.

Hi the clutches normally clap out on the manuals around 110k the DSG clutches tend to last a bit longer but be advised as far as I am aware they have a wet and dry clutch. Steve.

Hi if its done high milage and its chain driven it could be the hydraulic tensioner for the chain not holding pressure. Steve.

Hi sorry is it possible to get a better description of the problem? Steve.

Hi they have probably bought the cheapest turbo they could get, there is reconditioned and reconditioned cheaper companies tend to use less new parts and inferior bearings, the place I use Essex Turbos only use the top flight bearings and anything suspect is renewed I have used them for twenty years and never had a problem, they are not as cheap as online reconditioned units but you can see where the extra money went when they dont fail, also check the garage put a new oil feed pipe on and changed the oil and filter, yes its safe to drive. Steve.

Hi yes the other thing that stops it working is the fact it is seized, the only real cure is to replace it with the sealing grommet as described in the thread. Steve.

Hi you need a diagnostic scan to find the problem, otherwise its guess and spend £. Steve.

Hi if its not rattling or making a noise leave it alone. Steve.

Hi glow plug cylinder 2, what symptoms do you have?, a little bit more background will help. Steve

Hi NOT sealed but check that you can undo the filler plug before draining it, you wouldn't be the first person to fall down that hole, their grade and capacity are available on line. Steve.