Optimus

Hi all, on the way home tonight I hit an unfortunate large bird. I popped the bumper and trims back into place, bumper doesn’t seem to align quite how it should but does anyone know whether these are easy to self install? I’ll be ordering the parts tomorrow from my local main dealer.

Lots of information to digest and it’s hard to pin point exactly the issue(s) in your post. with regards to seals whether they are bead or gasket or ring. For as long as I can remember manufacturers of all makes and models have always stated that these are perishables and after a certain amount of mileage or time (typically 100k or 8+ years) these will fail and require resealing as of when identified. Bases on your description this is from my point of view considered normal wear and tear that won’t be avoidable.

The gearbox isn’t a full auto and uses an electronic control unit to effectively decide and change gears instead of mechanical linkages. in a manual car as you describe sounds like clutch drag. This happens when the clutch is not fully engaged or disengaged causing the friction plate to drag on the Fly wheel. its more prominent in lower gears when moving away or coming to a stop because the car nearly stalls in every situation causing the car to jerk forward or vibrate under load (high gear low torque). id suggest investigating the transmission clutch pack control and the associated mechanisms and control units. common wear and tear on semi-auto cars is that they often change from 1st to 2nd during a pull away too quickly at low rpm in 2nd gear. A simple issue of mild symptoms as described with engagement and disengaging of the clutch pack can then be exaggerated and made worse (wear and tear).

As an ex main dealer senior manager. There are many factors with warranty/extended warranty you should consider. whilst it is possible to maintain warranty outside of the dealer network by using 3rd parties with genuine parts. You will loose out on what is called good will. Good will is an extension to warranty that is often contributed by the manufacturer and dealership network franchisee. a car coming to the end of warranty your extend your good will cover into a 4th year when outside of warranty. Whilst you may pay for parts or labour good will is a measure of brand loyalty and can often be 100% of the cost. an example of how this works; customer services their car for the first 3 years at the same dealer franchise. within the 4th year of ownership (prior to the next due service) the engine throws a warning light. This is diagnosed at the main dealer as a fault with the oil pump. The cost of repair and diagnosis is £890.67 at the cost of the customer. The customer requests support (discount) this is raised as a goodwill claim. The manufacturer approves the claim, based on brand loyalty or other factors such as frequent servicing or customer has bought into the franchise prior (good history). The main dealer with the car on the ramp is supplied the oil pump free or charge. The customer is required to pay the labour only (£235). A lot of customers are not aware that there often are historical campaigns that are hidden with known faults or failures. These often never get issued as a recall, unless safety related or faults likely to happen within warranty periods. As a result there ste goodwill campaigns that dealers have access to which could save you a lot of money. DSG control unit for dual clutch transmission have always been an issue since day dot. Lots of campaigns. I’ve seen plenty of these replaced at 0 cost on 3-6 year old (VW, Seat, Skoda) vehicles. this is by no means saying stay with main dealers but consider whether you can carry out servicing in a format that may entitle your vehicle some goodwill outside of warranty by doing so.

have you also tried this.

Syvecs specialist in engine management and transmission management software and firmware, including the hardware. I'm not overly technical with such things but I understand the issues your describing are not the ECU but are control modules. As I understand, the control module responsible for cruise control that adjusts your speed and distance using radar will have some sort basic command prompts that will say: IF transmission speed is at ' ' check radar position distance for ' ' adjust for tolerances at ' ' This is not necessarily done by the ECU and this could be multiple control units doing each part forming part of a system, however a lot of the data sourced is likely plucked from the ECU and transmission control unit module(s) for example like traction control etc etc. Remapping these by changing numbers or characteristics in how they perform could disable or enable certain elements in your requirements. word of warning it is simply not as easy as it sounds. Speed governors were basic coding that retarded engine fuelling to inhibit the engine/transmission to go beyond a speed in which the sensor in the transmission provided in certain gears. Traditionally this was simple code or even done by detecting the throttle position (accelerator pedal position) that just told the ECU to do something, typically reduce throttle intake position from 100% to 70% opening position when sensor A, B or C recorded x, y or z. Very easy to simply recode this to function/command prompt. A good example of early electronic limiters, I recall a colleague tried in his transit van which was limited to 60mph in 5th gear, however if he dropped it to 4th gear he could get 66mph. So you'd hear this thing rattling down the road on the red line just to get a mere 6mph. The particular speed governor was programmed to only consider restriction to speed when in 5th gear so the car could go over the speed limiter if it was in a lower gear. A lot of engines destroyed as a result of this when company employees realised this was possible. As modern cars have become more sophisticated and computerised so has these governors and safety systems, there are now multiple and many different factors and control units communicating with each, it is not a simple case of picking one (ECU) and reprogramming it without causing issues else where. Case and point, all VAG group cars when plugged into their respective diagnostic tools can now tell if the cars ECU has been accessed outside of the manufacturer's approved network. In some cases this has invalidated any warranty there and then if they can identify/prove that the car has been tampered or modified in any way. Whether this is true, I was told they can also see how long/miles you have driven with a warning light (oil, EML etc) which can also effect any goodwill/warranty, that's how much these car computer systems are watching and recording information.

Not that I know the answer, but I’ve never had any concern of data usage however mine is less than 3 years old. I use Apple car play which I assume is the same as android auto when I review my data usage this almost always comes out of my phone contract. If not then I have never had to worry about data usage. i recall a while ago now that most cars that used 4g had a micro SIM card with a receiver which ran any online services (map/traffic updates etc). Whether this is still the case now, (probably not) but people used to remove said SIM card and replace it with a fixed contract SIM card with data. The only thing that was disabled was the Ecall system as it required the manufacturer subscription/license.

ECU is not necessarily the problem in your enquiry. The control modules that communicate with the ECU are coded with firmware that may be different to the MY23 ECU. cloning ECU’s is possible, for example there are some aftermarket ECU manufacturers out there (Syvecs) who run their own ECU and firmware and clone the manufacturer’s firmware and port it into the system. think of it like an Apple computer emulating windows operating system. if you did any of this on a new vehicle your warranty would be automatically null in void.

It should close automatically with the sensor. However the sensor is a bit useless working sometimes on mine. If the car is dirty, soiled or on an incline I have a real struggle to get it to work. I’ve just tried my car and works both open and close. (MY23 black edition, all options).

I meant to close/lock the thread. Just my opinion below. Discussing or actively sharing information that breaks a law is by some form considered to be aiding and abetting someone whom is considering or intentionally intending to break a legal requirement. Therefore closing the thread allows for moderators to prevent this being continued or later added to. (Easy policing). call my view draconian but I used to moderate a forum which I shall not disclose and a a similar thread involving modifications to a road legal car, thus making it illegal unfortunately resulted in the death of a member (dangerous driving was also a contributing factor). The parents of the young man alleged to the police that the ‘forum’ promoted this modification along with an agenda of street racing illegal activities. Sorry to say this was an grossly inaccurate view and seemed to me at the time and still now the parents not accepting their sons own accountability for being both stupid and reckless before his demise. anyways….The owner of the forum was cautioned by police and asked to remove all content (not just this particular thread posted) having found multiple other similar ‘how to…’ threads which were considered to be endangering or a nuisance to other motorist’s or members of the public. the sad part was most of the how to threads were actually useful information and whilst illegal were not safety related or grossly affected the safety or statute laws ruining it for everyone else. soon as someone posts something and it’s not removed or locked its there for Google search to find and before long trouble soon follows ruining it for everyone else whom are law abiding and everyone in between.

Forgive my probably likely assuming comment. But I was under the impression keyless entry is a standard option on all 2020-A6’s s line models. this coincides with a quick check on autotrader which suggests all cars have this fitted as standard if your vehicle is an s line which comes with for all intents and purposes I label as tech pack 1 which has the basic functionality and some additional premium functions. i may be wrong but if you can confirm it by other means this seems to be a logical question to start with.

There is a really good modification you can do. Tell said passenger whom is not buckled in to get out and walk or buckle up. Works really well, by far the most cheapest modification you can do. Obviously there are some drawbacks to any modification, they might not be your mate leaving them roadside. However, on the plus side should you crash the un-buckled passenger(s) won’t go through your windscreen or at the very least end up face down in your crotch when braking hard. Moderator(s), is it not worth closing this thread on legal grounds?

Fantastic - hopefully this fix has resolved the problem for you. As I suspected this has something to do with the lock/latch.

On sleeping on this, it could be a faulty latch. The car has the ability should you forget to put the parking brake on, it will automatically be applied for safety reasons on the car detecting you leaving the car. I don’t know how this works but I assume it requires one or more input, seat sensor, door sensor etc. if the door latch released, this may of tricked the parking systems controlling module into thinking your leaving the vehicle and then ran through the motions. What’s interesting is that the system tried, even though the car was at 70mph. Or it tried before at a point you was stationary. Implying the latch preventing locking and defective prior to the event? either way this is a fault that needs thoroughly investigating. I’d start with the latching mechanism. cold weather does make latches stick, maybe grease up the latch and observe?

I find it baffling that the door could possibly unlatch as this is purely mechanical motion. The door solenoid could unlock the door, but it would not unlatch the door. to elaborate, there is a double latch lock. When you pull the door to, you engage the first latch and fully closed the second latch. The central locking mechanism has a solenoid that sort of rotates the latch one more turn preventing the lock releasing. This is a safety feature that prevents doors from opening absent human interaction which has existed in all VW group vehicles from day dot and is unlikely to change even in modern times due to liability claims etc. the parking brake may not of fully released, and partially stuck. you may not of noticed in an automatic as you tend to in manual vehicles due to resistance when finding the biting point and moving away. The clunking sound is the pad and disc biting which happened due to friction and the pad and disc reaching a high temperature creating some expansion in the disc. If you pulled over, come to a stop and parked. You may have mechanically reset the electronic parking brake, this can be done by also turning the car off and on. just on a purely practical assessment of your describe situation this may best explain what happened with regards to the clunking sound. The door opening and window is most likely unrelated. on a similar note I have noticed that my windows occasionally drop over time, I’ve had a couple of odd situations where checking on my Audi app my car shows I’m not parked safely and my window is down having just parked. Only I haven’t undone my passenger window for god knows how long. I’ve always thought it had something to do with the tension in the window motor last few turns relaxing over bumps and humps that creates this problem.

Get some pictures up, interested to see how it takes form. I didn’t think there would be enough clearance and support with our completely relocating the Adblue tank. if you look at the petrol version back box hangers it becomes clearer how much of a pigs ear it will be to retrofit something in a similar fashion.

I don’t think it’s possible without bodging some back box with a bend around the tank. its probably better to go for a custom central back box with an exhaust tip

I don’t know to be honest, but ipv6 is generally related to the designation of device IP addresses connected to a router (receiving/broadcasting) device/module. It may be related to your in car wifi/external data connectivity. In this case two connected devices are using the same IP address. it may be worth resetting all connected devices to see if this clears the fault or carry out a factory reset on your multimedia system.

The other option is to lower and go for 21/22 inch wheels to offset the drop. You loose gap between arch and tyre but gain it on the wheel height from floor.

Eibach have a lowering kit for the 40,45 C8 model with a 40-45mm drop on the front and something like 35-40mm drop on the rear. HOWEVER.... I would strongly advise against lowering without a uprated/designed dampers/coil overs. Lowering on saloons or longer wheel base vehicles compared to shorter wheel base cars (hatch backs) come with far more drastic and less practical issues due to the wheels being set further back on the front and to one another. You will either scrap the front of the splitter every mild speed bump and once over, you will scrap the middle of your chassis every time you go over it. Its not practical for road going use. I would suggest air suspension. Simply because you can raise and lower the suspension accordingly, the ride is comfortable but firm. But you are talking about £7K+ Alternatively if you can find an insurance write off S6/RS6 at auction, you might be able to recover the chassis and mount to your car but the cost in getting those parts, and doing that work, you may as well buy an S6/RS6. Unfortunately due to road tax legislation, with anything beyond 2018 there is no point doing engine swaps to cheat the road tax. Presently the A6 40 TDI, S6, RS6 all have the same road tax (£570pa) which is bonkers. A 2.0 diesel 201hp car to have the same road tax as a twin turbo v6 and twin turbo v8 is nothing short communist taxation by government.

It’s all to do with the emissions. Ticking boxes. On petrol engine cars a lot of manufacturers are de-tuning engines to stick within certain co2 bands for manufacturing/tax purposes. This is a tuners paradise because you have engineered cars that allow for improvements if you remove certain restrictions.

Glad you got it sorted. Having the dsg gearbox mapped will blow you away. most of the issue I have in mine is gearbox related everything is sluggish and slow to react to throttle response. I’ve got some plans for mine when the warranty expires. I’m hoping for 260-280hp but I haven’t a clue at this stage what will be the significance of the limiting parts. The fuel pump and injectors and Intercooler seem to be obvious places to start. My target is to try and get 0-60mph down from 7.3secs to sub 5 seconds 0-100mph sub 12 seconds whilst sill retaining reliability and economy on fuel as a daily driver.

No bad experience, I’ve never used them, based on google reviews for diesel tuning they seem to be top of their game. The masses of people that go to tuners want numbers and they will chase numbers and get you to accept terms of conditions that in the event of you accept responsibility of the car breaking. I’ve always made sure asking the tuning garage the numbers they got is that the most they can do, was it the most they could get and what should I consider with reliability concerns.

When I spoke with them, they seem to know their stuff and were reluctant to suggest or imply it was a case of slap on a map and go. They wanted to run tests and look at the numbers have the car for at least a day. I just think they dropped the ball or tried something that didn’t work out. In order for it to go bang is the temperature range and boost. The higher the boost the higher the temperatures. There are some well known tuners out there which chased numbers and did not make reasonable endeavours to ensure various acceptable levels of reliability were factored in. It pays to do your research and ask lots of questions. I’ve remapped plenty of cars in the past and I always worked on the highest number I could make in power and torque and then drew that back by at least 30% before up rating parts, then repeat the process. This is the ideal area for performance vs reliability for road going cars. Tuning for racing is an entirely different process as your tuning to and inch of failure to maximise the power to each and every given race/circuit where you will be dismantling the engine and gearbox and rebuilding it between every race. The fuel pumps on the C8’s are not particularly great, which given your experience is likely an early indication of a limiting factor when remapping. I’ve been looking into whether it’s possible to swap the 40TDi pump out for the Q5/S6, I believe the 73 litre tank is the same.

A lot of the time people often overlook that these lithium car batteries will only work at certain temperatures. The result is it will digest or deplete its own power in order to provide battery maintenance/care management to prolong the life. what’s happening over night is that it could be heating the battery pack on its own power. Or given that batteries tend to work terribly bad in cold weather it’s estimating your range/power according to preset limitations to preserve its battery cell pack. I remember arriving at our hotel in our Tesla hire car looking at the range of 210 miles thinking we won’t need to charge and then getting to it the following morning after removing 9 or so inches of snow and seeing the range of 113 miles and scratching our heads. It wasn’t until we spoke with a fellow electric car owner at the charging station when it drops below -19 the battery heating pack runs literal marathons trying to prevent cell failure/damage.