Darryl Hill

If you are sending the head off for skimming, porting etc get the engineer doing the job to advise you on valves, they will have the machinery and tools to inspect them all

I would have thought so Faisal, the plug will be the same on all the models

OK for now disconnect the pad sensor, they work on a broken wire system, so until it detects a current running back and forward you will have a light on, cut the plug off and then twist the 2 wires together and wrap in insulation tape, this should put the light out as a temporary measure , unfortunately you wont get a replacement from Audi nor from an auto factors, however if you contact somebody breaking the same sort of car and ask them to cut 1 from it for you with plenty of wire to be able to reconnect it to where the female plug should be

Unless you have VCDS or equivalent to recode the battery details into the correct blocks you will have all sorts of problems throw up on the dash, RING an independent garage and get them to quote to fit it for you, I wouldn't use either of the 2 tyre centres you have had quotes from nor Halfords, as none of them know how to correctly code the battery in, and as Gareth has said, a garage will supply and fit what they get from the local motor factors, unless of course you ask for a certain battery, also garages like shops have to mark up their prices to RRP to make a living, before we had the internet you would only get garage prices, unless you knew where to go to get a better deal, now you can get prices less than RRP online

The V10 5.2 was fitted to the RS6 Avant (C6 platform), also the R8, it may well have been fitted to the A8 as well

You may find on the pipe the part number, it may help you with getting a replacement pipe, I see it seems to run from the Turbo on the induction side, so more than likely an induction pipe

The pipe itself is part of the vacuum system, will connect to 1 of the turbo/wastegate/egr valve solenoids

or this 1 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266599482264?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xaMFxErnRwK&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=-MPks2dKTpG&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi Saviola, is this the correct clutch kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256310853812?fits=Car+Make%3AAudi|Cars+Year%3A2016|Model%3AA4&hash=item3bad5140b4:g:YNcAAOSwpRxlLlG0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8PfJfSFwRxLg3T44fgZE3mc%2BoCTjeICV%2BxDae%2Fscjr87bIrN5VkzofZ65fDWjxkNF5MsI8IzskbUVtq%2Blga1MXx5D2YQCv3Wx425ll%2FYQG28FAZQZdGCT8QgrMMUf97nuJqAw4BIjEZ5DOZV0J9ekZu%2BgcypxGpkHKG%2FI1JEHFbOWeBVqWbgj%2F5cnugQ4%2Bb1L4FfS%2B%2FCaK90gYfANLkb1OXXW%2F2S2SZCuLaD9Yh%2FxfdD3DD5P4XWaq1Qh2%2Bhi6kFuTV1RxX6AOxa%2F2fiuHbrq0%2FxH5De4mknv3c%2B9Ilw6zrMX0HJ11lvQ49vDCf%2BunPHGA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_7NgOalYw or this 1 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256310902058?fits=Car+Make%3AAudi|Cars+Year%3A2016|Model%3AA4&hash=item3bad51fd2a:g:G6kAAOSwhM9lDT9k&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8BaaQPcFOxzRN82ZunDU0yERiUVEyDZU1YzE22YFoK1Gk1STEh9OS%2FY%2BepVfI5AU31g%2FKA6X9wxD2KQjNMO7HN3eB6%2BzY5QHh%2Bz2I1SE3Vk3iW4GxZhRU2GuYPKat%2F35wnXLXsxxm3I4RWeUV5LiTb4c2zmlZmixcKpiAs6E%2BZVbhke%2FTeyESSmOy9Kdkl2PkaPewpV3lechCxjM0GqF11R7v4e3ydo5FTQDID2zxHcAJdpPAQsuS1amJoAvKSwbpA3iD9yxQNTExkdeEjI8klo7W8ejnoyF32QvDXfV5vVeCikXIZNHqDpf%2Beg3jinTFQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4TOgOalYw

Hi Allan, have you checked the fan resistor/rheostat isn't blown?

Hi John you may find that the battery needs coding to the ECU, the majority of newer cars need to have the ecu told what the battery is etc, to do it you will need OBDeleven or VCDS (used to be called VagCom) and as much information from the new battery as possible. I don't want you to think I am asking a silly question but you are 100% sure the old battery it is the correct battery for the vehicle, correct amperage and CCA etc, and the new 1 you have bought is also correct

I would use a company called J&R CV joints, they are a British based company and they send out on a usually next day delivery

Ok, the price is down to it being a TDi and having a Dual Mass Flywheel, and yes I would get it replaced at same time as the clutch, a DMF when it goes can take out the gear box and possibly the back end of the engine (it contains heavy weight springs inside), you could always get a solid flywheel replacement for the vehicle along with clutch kit which would then negate having to replace the flywheel ever again, however you would need to keep hold of the name of the manufacturer of the solid flywheel/ clutch kit for further clutch replacements in years to come

Hi Alison, yes it does sound a bit steep, but firstly is your Q5 a quattro? If yes then it could be down to the ABS sensor being stuck into the hub and they have then had to strip the hub down to get the sensor out without causing any damage to the rear CV joint, wheel bearing and ABS reluctor ring that works in conjunction with the abs sensor, ask for an itemised bill as to what they have done.

Hi Matt, think you will find its a chain, or should I say 4 chains on the 3.0 v6, you can buy complete kits which has the chains, pulleys and tensioner guides, if still unsure check with your local independent parts suppliers, be sat down when they give you the cost though, and also be sat down when the garage gives you the quote for labour

As a good tip

just seen this post also had the flashing glow plug

You won't get a good fuel mileage from just around town, you need a few long distance journeys in to get the fuel mileage up, you will always use more fuel with stop start journeys around town than a long distance journey

HI Steve did you ever get this resolved? Check all connectors and connections to the EGR valve, as well as to the maf etc, sometimes if a connector has worked lose it will bring up the flashing glow plug symbol, failing that check all the vac hoses, some of the faults won't light the mil, but will through up the glow plug light instead

You don't need a remap just re-pinning for headlights on the can-bus

No problems Sebastian, Halfords wouldn't have a clue where to start, you would be better speaking to an indi VAG specialist, they may know what to do, or an ECU remap company

You need to be able to find which wires go to which pin on the ecu, there are some specialists who can do it for you (which I would recommend doing) as they know what has to go where and how to do it, I don't know about OBD11, never used it but have heard some good reviews on it

Can I just ask, have you converted existing halogen headlight units to take LED bulbs? if so you will fail your next MOT, the following is from the MOT manual, I'm a qualified MOT tester and just giving you the heads up thats all, if you have retro fitted complete LED/HID Headlamp units then that is fine, however I believe you will need to get the lights re-pinned to the ecu so as to work correctly and not throw up can-bus errors 4.1.4. Compliance with requirements You must inspect all ‘mandatory’ headlamps fitted. Mandatory headlamps consist of a matched pair of main beam headlamps and a matched pair of dipped-beam headlamps. These can be separate or a single pair of headlamps. Lamps are matched if they: emit light of substantially the same colour and intensity are the same size and shape that they are symmetrical to each other Vehicles first used before 1 January 1931 do not need headlamps. Buses first used before 1 October 1969 only need one headlamp. If 2 are fitted, neither the main beam or dipped beams need to form matched pair. The colour of the light headlamps emit must be one of the following: white predominantly white with blue tinge yellow In a four-headlamp system the outer headlamps do not need to emit the same colour light as the inner pair. The precise position of lamps is not part of the inspection, but you should check visually that they are at about the same height and the same distance from each side of the vehicle. Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.

I had similar happen on my A6 2.0tdi just before Christmas, the idler pulley bearings disintegrate and the pulley falls apart, they will rattle a bit before hand (maybe a couple of weeks maybe longer), if you are fortunate and not going at speed you shouldn't cause too much damage, possibly just the belt and the idler pulley will need replacing. Unfortunately on the 2.0tdi (may be different on other engines) the whole of the front end needs to be put into the service position to get to the idler pulley, which is under tray down, bumper off, headlamps out and core support slid forwards to put it into the service position, if you don't have the slide bolts that VAG and ELSAWIN recommend you can always use 2 of the vertical bolts holding the bumper bar to core support, there are 2 vertical bolts either side, use 1 from each side. The idler pulley bolt is a spline key, it takes about 2.5hrs to strip down, replace idler pulley and belt and refit all the other parts removed, make sure though to mark the position of headlamps to each side with masking tape so as they go back in the correct position and not to turn the headlight adjusters when undoing or redoing up the headlamp securing bolts, otherwise it is bumper off to re-adjust them at a later date

See if you can get a local mobile mechanic to come and do a proper compression test, unfortunately I am no longer mobile otherwise I would have offered to come over for the cost of fuel, ignore the ecu until you know that the engine is good, you say the timing is good but you are going to replace the belt, wait until you have had a proper compression test done before attempting the belt, if you can't get a c/t done see if any one has a bore scope you could borrow just to check each cylinder and the valves