Trevor

Hi James Worth dropping into a garage to have that checked Many years ago, I have a Mercedes in for a rattle from the boot area...could not find it, eventually found it was a broken coil spring. Just a thought! Regards Trevor - Admin

HI Curtis...welcome to the Club! I would imagine it is a drivetrain issue (clutch, transmission, flywheel) which would be worth dropping into a garage to have checked before it gets any worse. Additionally, it could be an engine mount or stabiliser that needs replacing...either way, worth dropping into a garage to check out Let us know how you get on with it Regards Trevor - Admin

This link leads to a general EGR bypass plate of which there are plenty available on eBay. Some have a small hole to allow a certain amount of gas through to eliminate an engine management lamp coming on and some have slots instead of holes to allow easier fitting. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A2-A3-A4-A6-1-6-TDI-DIESEL-EGR-VALVE-BLANKING-PLATE-3MM-THICK-STEEL-ND/222051183596?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37431%26meid%3Dc7f0fdecde244786a14322a177aa2e28%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D252133446375

Hi Geoff Found a selection on eBay that may be useful http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Audi A3 S3 RS3 8P 5 Door Roof bars with fixings used 8P4860021N 8P0486022N&_id=142026129144&rt=nc

Glad you've got it sorted now! Maybe that should be a new saying "never fix a car on an empty stomach"

Hi Brendan...welcome to the club! I would advise taking to the car to Protyre as they use the latest Hunter alignment equipment and generally know how to use it properly. Have the tyres worn on the inside or outside edge? Regards Trevor - Admin

HI Dave...welcome to the club! I think continual jet washing (reduced pressure) / soapy sponge (with a very gentle application) may be the best and safest way to remove the grit. Another method could be using a feather duster on the paintwork to shift it without applying any real pressure or rubbing motion. Let us know how you get on Regards Trevor - Admin

Hi Nigel...welcome to the club and welcome to the (potential) world of Audi Hope you find a good one...it's probably worth waiting until you see the one you want but I'm sure there are good ones out there still. Let us know when you do get one. Regards Trevor - Admin

HI Alex...welcome to the club! That seems ironic...but at least it's sticking to the theme of German cars Got any photos of the Audi's? Regards Trevor - Admin

Hi Rob...welcome to the Club! Sounds like a lovely car...have you got any pictures of it? The aftermarket Stainless exhaust seems like the best bet for long term benefits of no corrosion and usually enhances the sound as well.l Look forward to reading your posts on the forum Best Regards Trevor - Admin

Hi Lee...welcome to the Club! If it was me, I would replace the springs as a matching pair if in doubt. Depends on whether you want it to sit at stock height or whether you want to enhance it. Here is a link to a few parts: http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts-results/A6-S6-RS6/Coil-Springs/33582

Excessive water in this country...are you suggesting it rains all the time?

There should be connections for ABS sensors on each wheel...if any one of them is disconnected then that will produce a warning light

Very nice indeed! I suppose it's nice to have controls to switch driving modes but in reality, I don't suppose you will really need it with the engine performance and drivetrain ability...it should just wake up and go when needed and do what you want it to do in the bends. Not sure about the cabling...I wonder if any other members know?

Looks fantastic...all you need now is some sunshine :-) Enjoy !

HI Joe...welcome to the Forum! I would imaging that any driveability issues like the one you describe should bring up the Engine Management warning lamp and also store a fault code of the occurence. If the light did come on, even momentarily I'm sure there will be a code stored in memory which can be read out with a code reader. Let us know how you get on Regards, Trevor - Admin

Hi George....welcome to the Forum! I believe there should be a readout on the centre of the instrument panel usually accessed by toggling the switchgear on the wiper stalk. Regards, Trevor - Admin

Hi John...welcome to the Forum! Sorry to hear you've had such a dramatic failure with your Audi. It may be worth rebuilding, but get a quote from a specialist transmission rebuilder as the tooling will be quite specialist and can't be rebuilt without it. Let us know how you get on Regards, Trevor - Admin

Are these the same wheel? If so, they look very much silver in colour...maybe your wheels have had a repaint following repair?

HI Lee...welcome to the Forum! Not too sure on part numbers enough to advise you which box to fit. Hopefully some other members have tackled this one before...anyone?

HI Brian...welcome to the Forum! I would say that the problem may be when they replaced the pads, maybe the sensor or lead got trapped, disconnected, damaged? If the problem comes back as soon as the ignition is switched on then the sensor resistance is being measured and coming up with not present within the circuit...e.g. open circuit. Worth checking that for a start. Let us know how you get on. Regards, Trevor - Admin

Hi Ron...welcome to the Forum! That does seem quite odd. Sounds like the rear brake isn't working so well on that corner (sticking pad or slider) Would be tempted to spray or paint something (engineers blue for example) on it and see where exactly is the contact area. Let us know how you get on Regards, Trevor - Admin

Hi Mark...welcome to the forum! Sounds like a lovely car...looking forward to seeing the piccies. Enjoy it and let us know how you find it. Regards, Trevor - Admin

Hi Justin, It could be a suspension levelling system fault (if fitted). See article below: Auto Leveling Sensor If you recently lowered your car, or hit a really hard bump to your drivers side front or rear wheel, this could be the problem. For cars equipped with auto-levelling sensors, the sensors themselves are located in the wheel wheels near the lower control arms so they can adjust the headlight aiming based on the suspension load. For some people when they lower their car, the sensor is out of range as the suspension has been altered. For others, a hard bump to the front wheel could potentially break the sensor or cause it to become unplugged. To access the sensor, take off your drivers side front wheel and look near the bottom of the suspension. The sensor bridges the lower control arm to the body and looks like this: If it is damaged or the wires have frayed, you can order a new one here: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_S4–V8/Lighting/Headlights/Leveling/ES440960/. If you are lowered, you may just need to bend the upper part of the bracket so the top of the sensor is higher again. Once you have inspected and either repaired or replaced the sensor, you will need to recalibrate it using vag-com. Follow this DIY for instructions on how to do that: http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/autolevel.html&category=6

There are a few service schedules available on the internet or alternatively you could buy a copy of ElsaWin from eBay which is Technical Data covering your car. For parts, you could follow this link http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts/ and see which parts you need. Shouldn't be too difficult to carry out a service but I would state that quality oil of the correct specification should always be used.