spartacus 68

Don’t skimp on budget is my advice. I understand you’re looking at B&O, but that needs to dovetail with car model, engine and gearbox and even colour. B&O was expensive feature, so it’s not likely to be found on poverty spec car. If you find B&O, then it’s bound to have leather, folding mirrors, possibly virtual cockpit would be my experience. Retrofitting anything is expensive, and usually you need VCDS to remove codes, even if plug and play. I know this is on an Allroad brochure (2017), but it elaborates on the comfort and sound packs. https://autocatalogarchive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Audi-A4-Allroad-2017-UK.pdf Trim level aside, you want history and lots of it. On cars that have been on long service intervals, personally I’d give them a wide berth. No oil should be in the car for 18k miles. Be prepared to travel too, once you’ve done your due diligence checks. Additional checks such as Car Vertical which you pay for are useful.

VCDS Hex2, absolutely no question. You can source from Gendan. You get OBD cable and lifetime updates. 3 VIN licence will cover your car, plus whatever you source in the future. Works across VAG range of cars. On air suspension, if you’re fitting yourself, you might even need specific feature to ‘relearn system’ after installation, similar to panoramic sunroof synchronisation or one touch windows. On VW Golf 8 for example, you can’t even swap out rear pads without access to ODIS which is dealer level software, so you can see the way things are going.

Lot of car for the money. Personally, I’d opt to change the oil every 6-8k miles. This will be a Tiptronic transmission 8-speed and generally bullet-proof, but again, if it were me, get the fluid changed. Yes, Audi will tell you it’s sealed for life, but ZF who make them have a service kit. Turbos, your guess is as good as mine. Don’t hammer it, and if you do, make sure it’s warmed up.

Assume these are heater water jets? At £30 each or so, it is what it is. EBay, then you’ve no idea, possibly cheap Chinese made and boxed as authentic. Link here, there’s a left and right part number. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/AQ5/751/9/955/955010

The car needs to be scanned with VCDS. The fact the fault is intermittent will still register the error, and time it happens. Given it’s the gearbox, then act sooner rather than later to have it checked. This gearbox needs an oil and filter service every 38k miles.

Not aware of specific OBD readers that will clear what is a very specific fault. VCDS will see it and you can clear the DTC. Side note, how old is the battery? These cars are sensitive to battery degradation, and wouldn’t put it past Audi not to have checked. A cheap multimeter is handy. Get AGM and code it to the car if it’s in any way suspect. For VCDS, you can get a 3-VIN package from Gendan for £222. Personally, get one with a case. What does that get you? Access to Rosstech software updates for life, update to OBD dongle on occasion. You just need a cheap laptop to run it on. Worth its weight in gold. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23NC.html

Most wiring for hatchback/coupe boot lids will enter the car near the hinge. Usually a rubber grommet, and not unheard of to have a break or some other anomaly there, so worth investigating. Regards the alarm horn, I’ll bet it had a failed rechargeable Ni-Cd battery in it and the previous owner stripped it out. More details here. https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-mk1-alarm-siren-fix.73315/ Getting the car connected to VCDS would help. If you’re chasing wiring diagrams, consider subscribing to ErWIN. You can buy access for a day and download or print what you need. https://audi.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do

Pretty sure you'll need to undo drive shaft bolt and remove lower balljoint so you can withdraw driveshaft and CV from hub to see. A wobble impact triple square is handy. See videos for Dave Sterl on YouTube. He's done A4, so can't see A3 being different. You'll need a new driveshaft bolt, and torque with wheel off the ground. Bearing wise, F.A.G. every time. Make sure hub face is spotless before fitting. Wire brush attachment on a drill, that sort of thing.

Looks like Scuba Blue, however, check the build sticker in the boot recess, assuming this has a space saver, you’re looking for LX5Q or similar.

I bought a compressor and air hammer for the dreaded pinch bold on upper arms on front suspension. I’m sure it’s possible to do this rear subframe job without it, although I’d want a Milwaukee 1/2” impact wrench with a swivel head as payback, as you’re on axle stands and not always east to get a breaker bar on it. For exhaust, cut off the centre connection brackets which will be like cheese anyway and fit Mikalor stainless clamps. Basically fit and forget. Yes, you can leave brake calipers and brake lines connected, but you’ll need to support somehow. On 2012, then trade in isn’t what you think it will be. The car is probably worth more to you than what it’s worth financially, if subframe is an advisory. Ultimately this is down to time and resource. If you’ve worked on Land Rovers, this will be a walk in the park. You have eccentric bolts that control camber. Typically these are seized. I’d get new Audi bolts for that and lightly grease with ceramic grease.

More likely to be sticking caliper causing grief. Is the brake disc sitting on a very clean hub? Any corrosion on the hub will manifest itself through the brake disc to the pedal. Also rule out worn wheel bearing. Drive the car for a few miles and coast to a stop. If the disc is getting hot, you’ll smell it and feel the heat. Tell-tale heat spots on the disc will confirm. Worn wheel bearing will have constant audible rumble in the background around 40-50mph, rather that tell-tale wheel wobble if you lift car and hold wheel at 10 to 2 position. You can raise car, grip the coil spring and rotate the wheel. Any vibration could inducate goosed bearing. A full brake dismantle is probably required. Are pads able to move in carrier, etc. Are brake sliders seized? Yes, okay to keep driving, but avoid heavy braking. Depending on the eventual outcome, you may be swapping out pads again.

Personally I’d swop out the battery. On 2017 car that’s now 8 years old and these cars are very picky about voltage drop or you get into all sorts of issues. Go AGM and get it coded to car, clear fault codes and go from there.

Nice car, cracking colour and I rate CrossClimate tyres for grip and are hard wearing if this is going to be mile muncher. The B7 forum on AudiSport channel is very active for specialised stuff.

Jack up the car at the front, on both sides, drop the engine under tray, and you can access bolts to ARB. Wire brush first and spray with penetrating release, buzz the bolts off if you have a power driver. You will also need to remove the drop links too. If the drop links have play at balljoints, replace with Meyle HD. On fitting new bushes, use red rubber grease. Don’t use any other grease.

Potentially if the balljoints are goosed. My money is on ARB bushes. Wouldn’t expect top mounts to have gone on 2017 car unless high mileage.

Audi service desks don’t listen to hearsay or talk of forums however well intended. Minimum is they will scan car with VCDS, then perform repair. Their labour charges are horrific.

Worn drop links or ARB bushes. Both inexpensive.

Don’t under-estimate the task at hand. Luckily this is a 2WD version, but you’re looking at 13 year old car, and everything will be seized on. Hat off to you for attempting. Look at parts here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/717/5 If it were me, then absolute minimum tools would be air compressor with air hammer, axle stands, full socket set with 1/2” extension breaker bar, heat (blow-torch), plus gas penetrating fluid, impact driver, battery or power torque wrench, ceramic anti seize grease, coil spring compressors, scissor jack, 2-tonne jack, wire brush, preferable on drill attachment for exposed bolt threads. Put money on rear coil spring rubber seats. being corroded. Given the work you’re going to, this had better not be your daily driver. Allow yourself a few days, ideally under cover. Brake lines, then flexible hoses, clamp where possible, you’ll need to bleed brakes afterwards. Suspension parts, Meyle HD or Lemforder, and only torque with full vehicle laden weight. Prior to dropping subframe, mark position. At the end, you’re still going to need to do alignment. Also use new subframe bolts from Audi. You will likely need VCDS for rear electro mechanical brake, or chance it just leaving handbrake off and refit pads. Put the car battery on trickle charge, during refit. Given you’re going to hassle of replacing, then swap out rear bearings too. F.A.G., nothing else. Once done, spray everything with Lanoguard every year.

Scan the car with VCDS. Normally when the dash lights up like a Christmas tree it’s a wheel speed sensor.

Could be anything, turbo, fuel pump, etc. Scan with VCDS, that will reveal the error, if it’s existed before plus any other anomalies.

In respect of original question to Colin, If brand new hardware, especially Audi, then I would look at the brake lines and put on genuine VAG. In addition, use VCDS to open the electronic parking brake and close. They are a funny old set up, but that’s my experience. I’ve also seen rear brake pads sticking on the carrier. The carrier will corrode and the shims force the pads to tighten and they don’t move. You can use a metal file on the carrier and wire brush, if it’s original stock. Had a similar issue with new Zimmermann discs and pads in an Audi Allroad B8. I also stripped the EPB. On rebuilding, use a smear of ceramic brake grease on pad shoulders, on carrier shims and piston face.

I don’t recognise the code. When you say you fixed the mechatronics, what exactly did you do? A scan with VCDS will reveal more than generic OBD scan.

Unfortunately this is a bit of a laborious fix. Water can only gain access through the light fixings, rear washer pipe connection, wiper aperture, or electrics grommet near the hinge. Others have potentially fixed by stripping out and reinstalling, possibly even use a little mastic on reinstalling. I’ve used Teroson MS930 made by Henkel before on a leaking panoramic which I can recommend. Alcohol wipe first. Before you get to that stage, interior trim out and run constant supply of water over tailgate to observe. You’ll need a decent light source.

You’re in a bit of a predicament Nicola. The trouble with main franchise dealers, and this isn’t exclusive to Audi, is that their technicians aren’t experienced enough. As mentioned earlier, if anything like BMW, then they will log onto a computer terminal and follow as prescribed route to fix and don’t use old fashioned intuition. That’s fine if they actually fix it, but as a customer you take the hit with exorbitant labour and parts. Personally, I’d take the car back from Audi dealer and continue with your route to Audi UK to see if they can address it. This is a luxury SUV, 5 years old, and shouldn’t have something that’s unfixable. There must be some sort of monitoring system for air suspension that provides live data. The fact the car self levels on start up tells you the compressor is doing its job. I’d want all the self levelling height sensors checked. That should have been done as a matter of course, and with live feed to VCDS to see functionality. Airbags, as mentioned by John, inspected properly. Whether it’s the airbag, ‘o’ ring or line feed union. Audi won’t repair, I will tell you that now. If there’s a fault then they’ll opt to replace. The air lines traced to see if there’s a break along the length of the car from the compressor. That’s why they want the seats out. I think at that point, then this repair should be goodwill, as stripping out interiors is time intensive. I gave up on main dealers years ago and do my own work. VCDS is useful, but Audi will use systems such as ODIS with component security protection which is dealer level software that your average mechanic won’t have access to. On the latest Golf MK8, you can’t even change the rear pads without ODIS is my understanding. Anyway I hope you get a resolution to this.

Interesting John, and fix. Just been listening to someone on YouTube with a Q7. They had sagging suspension overnight and replaced airbag suspension up front and the fault continued. According to them this was traced to insufficient tyre inflation. Now this got me thinking, hold on, this is a Q7, TMPS has been in place since 2012, so surely a incorrectly inflated tyre would have flagged an issue? Apparently there was an update to the story and it was in fact one of the self levelling sensors that was corroded. Would be worth checking them out that there’s no corrosion or damage before condemning the airbag.