spartacus 68

DPF and or EGR Cooler. It can get expensive depending on individual circumstances. I would contact the garage, irrespective if it’s 2 hours away. The part-exchange shouldn’t affect anything.

Remove the engine under-tray. Check coolant level first and top up, then get car to operating temperature and park over cardboard. Shouldn’t be too difficult to trace the leak. Even determining which side of the engine is useful. Have decent LED torch handy. Difficult to pinpoint, petrol and diesel version have different characteristics. Suggest you change your mechanic too. Three trips and no resolution? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/14457-coolant-loss/ https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/384742/

No idea about those roof lining buttons, but I’ll bet it will look horrendous by the time you’re finished. The only way to fix properly is to remove, strip off the old headlining, and use new OE VAG roof lining with a suitable contact adhesive. Tools wise, long handled torx screwdrivers, and this special tool for interior grab handles. https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=38730184 There’s curtain airbags in there, so disconnect battery and leave for 30 mins. If this is a B6 Avant, headlining can come out via the tailgate. Usual electric connections as sun-visors, central convenience lighting, etc. If there’s a sunroof, then the panel detaches around it with metal clips.

Got the same engine in a 2017 A4 Allroad. The 3.0 TDI and Tiptronic 8-speed is wonderful to drive. Loads of low end torque. On A6, then you have air suspension as standard. Normally pretty bullet proof, but these cars are getting on a bit, so due diligence and all that. If you have access to VCDS, then worth scanning the car for any historic faults. This will be Euro 6, so have AdBlue, DPF and EGR. Use premium diesel and don't do short start stop journeys. Make sure nothing has been deleted. Suspension wise, if over 100k miles check advisories on previous MOTs. Upper arm and front lower trailing arms (hydra bushes). Check all the toys work. Sat Nav will likely need update, and potentially need air con regas. History is critical, so that's oil changes every 5-8k miles, 10k miles at a push. Rear diff gear oil change by 100k miles and ZF make service kit for transmission. Personally I'd do by 8 years or 80k miles. Check bodywork, but normally age well with very little rust. Rear subframes known to get crusty, so wash down and coat with Lanoguard. Not aware of issues with panoramic sunroof if fitted. B8 A4 platform was different and plagued with issues. Clean out drain channels. Specific grease from VW to lube guides, although expensive.

Suspect it’s 5W30 LL. You can cross check on Castrol’s site basically any oil that’s VW 504.00 / VW 507.00 compatible. The LL is long life, but change at the next scheduled interval.

Cars with Quattro drive will crab on full lock which might explain lurch. The A3 uses Haldex system so it’s basically on FWD unless speed sensors say otherwise. I doubt there much to worry about. If worried, get the car scanned with VCDS.

SKF is a quality part. Stick with your mechanic, if you trust them, then that counts for a lot. I’m sure you’ll get to the bottom of it.

Take it back. Transmission issues rarely resolve themselves. Assuming this is 7-speed S tronic. It needs serviced every 38k miles. If gearbox was serviced, I’d want written notification of that. It could be a firmware issue of course, so would need need a scan to check what’s what, but first thing the dealer is likely to do is drop the oil, new filter, etc. If there any contamination in the gearbox, then that’s on them.

You’re right to flag it. Something isn’t sitting right once the suspension or brakes were reassembled A single clunk could be pads moving in the brake carrier. Were the garage lazy and simply buzzed it back on? A strip down, blow out with compressed air and light smear of ceramic grease would bed everything in. The final torque on the hub bolt is with the wheel still raised, and there’s a sequence. Any other associated suspension links that were dismantled should be checked too.

Often a battery on its way out will trigger faults. Don’t put yourself in the position by trying to kick it down the line, it will let you down. If money is tight, then any AGM battery, VARTA, Yuasa, etc, same cold cranking amps as the original. In terms of coding VCDS if you know someone or OBDeleven. Fitting is straight forward. If you have scan software, then don’t bother hooking up battery trickle charge to points in engine, just take it out, importantly remembering to photograph the code and connect the vent tube. Code it in and forget out it.

Avoid going to Halfords, I mean that genuinely. For some things, especially batteries then the main dealer is more reasonable than you think. Likely an AGM battery, and it needs coded to the car. On a B8 model, I’d say it still needs coded to the car. This can be done if you know someone with VCDS.

Ideally scan the car with VCDS to see if it identifies the module that’s not communicating. There’s a Bluetooth module, but I’m guessing. An auto electrician is probable a safe bet with access to diagnostics. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS4C/605/0/035/35010 Not sure if this unit is under passenger side seat or in boot given cabriolet could be a different set up given potential for the interior to get a soaking.

See if you can do a MMI factory reset and then search for the phone. Radio signal and poor reception are normally antenna related. As far as I know the antenna on a cabriolet is built into the rear window, so start looking at broken or damaged connections there. Search LLL parts for more details.

To be honest this is specialist territory, there’s Decimal Tenths which is close to you, or drive to VAG Technic in Dudley.

Usually scan with VCDS to see if any error codes. He's a similar issue and how it was resolved.

See if you can cross reference it here. There are huge numbers of spring options available, depending on electronically controlled dampers, standard, sport, etc. The springs should have coloured dots. Frustratingly LLL Parts don’t give a particular breakdown in this instance. Double check with your engine code. This is for 2017 S5 Coupe/Sportsback. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A5CO/897/5 Don’t under-estimate work to fit. It’s a Quattro, so space is limited. You’ll need coil spring compressors and a bottle jack to extend the lower arm. I’d disconnect the shock absorber too. Replace the rear spring seats too, likely they are corroded. Check bump stops while you are there. No reason to adjust the rear subframe, but if you do, only one bolt at a time. Also watch you don’t release the eccentric bolt on the lower arm or you’ll need to get the camber realigned. You might want to get the car 4 wheel tracking done for peace of mind afterwards. In terms of brands, Suplex has good reputation.

Pay to use erWIN is probably your best bet.

Think your best bet is to phone a few VAG transmission specialists in the central belt, agree on repair and estimate cost. Drive through and leave the car and get a train or bus back. Now unless you’re on the islands, then you could spend a few days in Glasgow and then return with car once fixed. It’s difficult to assume anything with transmissions, so only once it’s checked, can they repair or replace parts. Inverness Audi would take a kidney as part payment as you know.

Is the car driveable?

What make are the pads and rotor? Is there excessive corrosion on the brake carrier so it’s lost shape. Have a look at diagrams here and cross-check on your engine code. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/448/6 For brake sliders, pad shoulders and piston face use a little ceramic brake grease. The brake carrier bolts should be okay to undo if you’ve new hardware. These bolts tend to seize if left untouched for periods of time.

Looks good. Do you know the age of the car the rear subframe came off? I know it's belt and braces to renew the bushes. No idea how to replace, either pushed out with a press or drawn out with threaded bar and cup. You find more details on erWIN (pay to view).

Any pics? There are ride height sensors on rear passenger and front passenger side. Works with headlight levelling, etc.

Not sure what else to suggest. A mechanic will get a pry bar on the lower arm bushes. Any flex, then swap it out. On the bright side you’re rebuilding the front suspension piece by piece. 😉 Double check the coil spring hasn’t lost an end and it’s sitting properly. I’m sure if you had top mounts done that would have been spotted.

Load it to YouTube and link it from there.

Could be leaky injectors. Not suggesting you replace the injectors. You could pull them, clean and replace the copper seating washers. Not sure if there’s an ‘o’ ring on the main mode of the injector too? If you do pull them, replace the bolts, they are stretch bolts and torque to yield, once only. Use a little ceramic grease on refitting. If an injector was damaged, I’d expect a further error code. Any new injector needs to be coded to the car. P0420 error likely to be inefficient catalytic convertor. Not sure any of the off the shelf products work. If it were me, you could try Forté products, including injection cleaners. Another option is to access primary oxygen sensor to inspect the cat itself. A lot of work, yes, but only way to confirm visual inspection with endoscope camera (with light) that works with your phone, just to be sure it’s not broken up. Bear in mind this was a crash damaged car.