spartacus 68

That handle is no longer available. It's part number: 8H0867621 (to do with rear storage area floor). You should be able to source second-hand searching for the part number.

The pad wiring will join the same loom as the ABS speed sensor I'd have thought. The pad sensor is straight-forward wiring and usually disappears behind the wheel arch liner or into the main chassis near the front subframe.. Once there's a break continuity it will illuminate. Scanning the car on VCDS will provide a little information. I can't remember if there's a pad warning on rear discs - possibly.

The door open light function usually has control button on roof near the mirror.

You can get a sniff test done to check for hydrocarbons. White smoke indicates head gasket or cracked engine block.

Lots of documented issues with panoramic roofs across multiple VAG models. Had a B8 A4 Allroad (2012) that started to leak. I chased that leak for 2-3 years. The panoramic is actually made by a firm called Webasto, who make auxilliary heaters too. The issue is the plastic cassette uses a mastic which eventually fails. Search for more details on AudiSport under my name. Eventually sorted it using specialist mastic. I like panoramic roofs, enough to buy the same model in B9 guise. I’m probably mad! To be fair I’ve had no issues on this particular car (2017), so hopefully Audi sorted what was a design flaw. Back to Adrian’s search. Finding a 2.0 TDI A6 Quattro with a panoramic and in a specific paint colour could be a needle in a haystack. Start on Autotrader and filter the search. Normally Quattro and extras such as panoramic will be on 3.0 litre models. Also be prepared to travel for the right car. Finding one locally is unrealistic.

Advice varies as you can tell, however 5 years or 60k miles is a good start. It’s not just the belt, but tensioner pulley, water pump, etc. Possibly over cautious, but if the belt snaps, then the engine is goosed. The mechanic will also check bearing wear on other pulleys. Throw on new auxilliary serpentine belt for peace of mind too.

Standard vented discs and pads all day long. By standard, I mean good quality, Ate, Zimmermann, Textar, TRW, etc. Only reason to go drilled and grooves is if you potentially use the car on track days, or you drive it hard. That said, you can still get cars that feel that they have inadequate brakes. Used to have an Audi A4 2.5TDI Quattro Avant (basically Amtrak locomotive). Not particularly powerful by today’s standard, but seriously lacked braking power given its weight. In those cases, go for a compatible brake upgrade. That often means changing the carriers, flexi hoses and calipers, not to mention discs and pads.

Chances are it's two-pin. Laser tools will make something specific, but at £45 it's not the sort of thing you'd buy unless you're doing it all the time. Anything from Ebay should work, but as mentioned. look at some YouTube videos before you part with cash.

Just out of interest - when was the timing belt last changed? Personally I'd do them every 5 years and 60k miles and put in new tensioner puller, water-pump and thermostat if it's faulty. Audi temperature should be bang on 90 degrees, possibly a little warmer if you're towing.

It is a pinch bolt and yes it’s notorious. Aluminium strut and steel bolt, so plenty oxide corrosion. There are a few ways to remove. The main dealer will have some fancy tool to press it out. Independents possibly use a tool made by Klann. For me, spray penetrating release on it, PlusGas or similar a few days before. Heat too. The top arm balljoints will be toast anyway. The key is to get the head to rotate, even a little. Some cut off the head, then add washers to the nut end and draw it out. However tempting, do not hit it with a hammer. All you will do is mushroom the thread, then it’s going nowhere. I have an air hammer, so particular pressure helps to vibrate the corrosion free. Laser also make a tool, relatively cheap that you can use as a punch. Again with the cuts on the strut, however tempting, don’t get in about with an oversized flathead screwdriver, use compressed air, a pick and plenty penetrating fluid. Easy does it. Youll need a new pinch bolt. Use ceramic grease or anti-seize before refitting. Search Dave Sterl video for how to.

Unusual fault. Not heard of disconnecting 12v battery, but safe to do so if HV system is disabled first.

Not all car diagnostics are the same and it may not throw a code. If it’s VCDS, run gearbox adaption for clutch calibration. There are videos on YouTube, or take it to a specialist, and that doesn’t necessarily mean the main dealer. Last service at 75k, then there’s a process to filling S Tronic, so suspect all is well regards levels.

To be honest if Audi are paying for the new turbo, take it. It's ludicrous though if it's just an actuator clip. Just make sure they renew the oil feed pipe too. More often than not - that oil union nut once undone will never nip up and it will leak if they are refitting a new unit. They change the oil and filter as a matter of course. Anyone that finds themselves in this position - check out https://turbo-diesel.co.uk, genuine turbos, Garrett, etc. Half the price - for basically the same thing.

Needs scanned with VCDS ideally. Take it this is Stronic 7-speed? If it's had two services it should be in great condition. If it's a wet-clutch there are gear adaptions and it might be out of sync. S-Tronic should be serviced every 38k miles, so servicing is on the money. Double-check the gearbox by looking at the codes on the build sticker (either in spare wheel well or on service book inside cover) - if that's even still a thing! There are some videos on YouTube with VCDS, but key thing is to know the gearbox first and see what you're dealing with. Incidentally - if you are technical, then VCDS can be obtained from Gendan via Rosstech. You'll need an old laptop using probably Windows 10, especially if you're sticking with the brand long-term. Bear in mind a main dealer will charge £150 just to scan. Just a thought. 3 VIN version is fine.

Could very well be drive shaft seals on inner CV. Clean off oil residue with degreaser and jet-wash and then review in a week or so.

Probably nothing to worry about. A6 could be anything, likely a sensor somewhere. Diagnostics will reveal as Audi will scan. A3 on the other hand ultimately unrelated. Nexen brand is good all round tyre fitted from new, so likely previous occupant hit a pot hole which litter Scotland given it’s a courtesy car and OP was in unfortunate position with blowout.

Under the circumstances, £180 is okay. To be honest, the oil service should have been done prior to road trip racking up miles.

Can’t see 2017 model, so have chosen 2018. You can double check yourself on LLL Parts. Wing without ancillaries to fit, primed £1,481. Bumper cover, primed £1,676, however there are multiple components that attach, parking sensors, front grill, spoiler, headlight washers, fitting kit, then you have bumper carrier behind it, etc. If the bumper had carbon sections, then you’re into a grand for each section. Some of it may be transferable from the old bumper if intact. Headlight, LED Matrix, £2,183 as an example. Paint, labour and VAT. You can see how it adds up.

Suspect you'll need to get under the rear valance and see if anything is stopping it dropping. Obviously be aware the towbar it's a heavy old lump, so if someone pulls the cable - see if it will detach down with a little help. Failing that - you might need to scan with VCDS to see if any logged errors. Have you checked fuses too?

That's poor. To be honest there shouldn't be software issues or things like HUD overheating. Audi, I'm sure like many manufacturers are quick to push new tech to market, but it needs to go through due diligence in terms of testing. Luckily you're under warranty - but if it were me, I'd speak to service manager to express your worries and see if they can wangle in a free oil change or such like.

Tie-rod ends, CV boots, upper arms, ARB links or coil springs. Stick the front tyres over a couple of magazines and get someone to turn full-lock to full-lock. It needs to be under weight and the magazines help stop tearing up rubber when stationary. Also check springs. Not unusual to loose a couple of cm from broken spring, but that would reveal with twang or clunk noise.

Good news Paula. As Steve had mentioned- a lot of new parts are security protected. You'll see it featured on the forum with regards MMI systems, amps etc. I priced the Q3 based on Autotrader, that's a 2015 model with 125k miles - that a retail trade price, not what you could get for it. Privately - probably £5k. In my experience - anything not working, then traders will drop the price and private buyers don't have the knowledge to fix, unless they know the model specifically, and of course that's with a year's MOT. Had a Skoda before and I like the brand. I think their new cars are looking better these days. The Kodiak is a big old lump, so whatever you opt for, get a decent warranty, as unfortunately these cars are sensor heavy.

I think you are unlucky Paula, but I may question where you've been taking the car to date, and the competency of the mechanics, especially given 4 mechanics have looked at the car to date. At this age and mileage I wouldn't be taking it to a main Audi dealer and paying exorbitant labour rates, but seek out VW/Audi specialist with lots of positive reviews. Check with friends and family too if in doubt. So Audi Q3 2015, not identified engine, but to be honest it's not critical. You've put 70k miles on it since you've owned it, so in that time you should have had a few services, I'm hoping oil services every 10k miles, plus timing belt and water-pump, etc. First things first. The issues are fairly mixed, and will range in price from a few pounds to a few thousand unfortunately. So your car is 2 wheel drive, however with Haldex fitted, it will engage traction control on the rear wheels so you have 4 wheel drive if the car senses a lack of grip. This is found on S3, TT, etc. The Haldex unit requires servicing. Now, not sure if this is just Audi, but on VW, then there's no specific requirement to clean the mesh filter on Generation 5 Haldex units (which yours will be). It's preferable by folk in the know, not only to drop the gear oil, but to clean the mesh filter on the pump. I think VAG (Audi/Volkswagen) recommend every 40k miles, but Volkswagen subsequently changed this to every 3 years regardless of mileage. Ironically I think Volkswagen don't even recommend the pump mesh is cleaned, they simply drop and refill the oil. I assume Audi is exactly the same. Your service paperwork may say differently. If the pump filter is clogged, then it can burn out the pump and in turn - it burns out the electronic module as it draws too much current trying to pump fluid through a blocked mesh screen. You would need to determine if the module and the pump are both damaged. A VCDS scan should be able to read any logged DTC errors. If it's the module only - then new they are over £1k depending on specific part number. Again I don't know if component protection is fitted? Watch this. Dave Sterl is old-school, but he knows his stuff. In terms of headlights, if Xenon gas discharge, then headlight is circa £600 new. If it's LED, then unfortunately it's over £2k. You can search under LLL Parts for more details based on your chassis number. Mechanics will be reluctant to fit used parts as it won't be plug and play. Audi have component protection enabled, and it's not something that you can over-ride even with VCDS, then you get into removing the coding with dealer only software like ODIS. Rear level sensor (will be located on rear suspension on passenger side. Electrical or mechanical - usually fails or corrodes. It measures weight of rear axle so headlights don't dazzle if the car is loaded. Again - usually straight forward to replace. 4 washer jets - not sure if windscreen or headlight washers - again, straight forward to replace. If it is headlight washers, you'll need to remove bumper to access. I think your first bet is to identify trusted garage or mechanic and get a fully itemised quote and proceed or not on that basis. A 2015 Q3 with nearly 130k miles is probably worth less than you think, ball park retail for £7,500 trade. Probably not what you want to hear - but that's a detailed summary.

Like all diesels, then servicing is key. Oil changes annually or 8-10k miles, fuel filter every 20k miles. This will be belt driven, so I'd expect belt, tensioner pulley and water-pump to be done every 5 years or 60k miles. If they can't provide that, then walk away, there's lots on the market. If manual, check biting point on clutch. Also check brakes, especially discs for lip. There should be even wear across face, no heat spots. Suspension wise, should be rattle free at 60k miles, but expect some remedial work in the future around 80-100k. It's multi-link suspension, so Meyle HD and Lemforder are parts to aim for. If you know anyone with VCDS, then it would be worth running scan. This can reveal persistent error codes if they've been logged. Used to have same engine type generation 5 diesel in a Skoda (non AdBlue version) and it was a work horse. Avoid short run journeys. Diesels need to be driven, otherwise you're going to end up with EGR and DPF issues down the line. Additives such as Forte diesel conditioner (goes in fuel tank) and anti-crystal), goes in AdBlue tank are useful.

To see workshop repair, you'll need access to ErWin (pay to view). There is no physical manual as such. As far as I know its double sided tape. You could use a hairdryer to heat up. Then anti-marr trim tools to prize off. Preparation is everything, so take your time and ensure area is spotless.