Magnet

So are you saying you have also investigated the specialist repair route as well?

Hello Andrew, Welcome, and thanks for joining. Re. 0w/20 vs. 5w/30, have you consulted your handbook to see what specification is recommended there? I would take that as the bible. Incase it helps, I have been using Quantum oil in our humble A3, over it’s now 170+K miles. Quantum is/was VAG’s recommended brand so I’ve always stuck with it, and my routine has been to use their Longlife grade, and change it annually, even though the car only covers approx. 7K miles in that time. ‘24 month service schedule’? Far, far too long an interval in my book, even using Longlife oil. With the advent of stop/start etc. modern oils get a hammering, but it’s understandable that many car manufacturers use extended servicing schedules. As with crazy ( in my book) extended limits for cambelts etc, manufacturers are become less interested in revenue from servicing, and hanging their hats on the far more lucrative market of selling more vehicles, and appear to have less interest in making sure vehicles are maintained in respect to their longevity. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Quantum is believed to be a subsidiary brand of Castrol.

Hello Louise, Might be well worthwhile also searching ECU repair specialists. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wouldn’t be surprised it’s on the same circuit as the washers. Sounds like you are going to have to access the pump, and check the voltage to it.

How Naz?

Thanks for the frank comments Mark. Your comments put me in mind of the late Tommy Dewar (of Dewar whisky fame) who said:- ‘ If we are put on this earth to help others, what are the others doing to help themselves?’ Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, As I suggested to the OP - it should be listed in the Owner’s Manual. I guess you know the bonnet has to be shut for the wipers (and washers?) to work. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Anth, I too wish you well with your family emergency, and I certainly agree that motoring takes a back seat, as I currently go about my daily radiotherapy sessions - hence the up-early response. Let’s hope the jibberish stands you in good stead tomorrow. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Martin, It could be me, but this does seem too cheap if the plugs cost £60. Not sure what you would term ‘cheap plugs’, but do you really want to have ‘cheap plugs’ fitted? Kind regards, Gareth.

Please tell me if you think I’m being harsh by commenting that time effort and experience has been devoted here to no avail since the OP simply hasn’t returned to view any responses. Let’s hope he’s OK. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, 1994 would be very early for reliable diagnostics, so personally I wouldn’t attach too much significance to the ‘no codes’ diagnosis. The old adage is that if you have compression, fuel and spark, then you would expect it to start, subject to a good cranking speed, and the sparks arriving at the correct point! Steve could well be right, and I feel you may just have to substitute sensors on a trial basis. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, It could be me, but I cannot see the economics stacking up when a 5 year old car gets serviced at a main dealer. As a matter of interest, how many services has the car had during that period? My guess is it’s just had its 3rd service, and as an aside it would surprise me that its air filter hasn’t been changed yet - but I could be wrong. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gregg, DO NOT DISCONNECT anything without first leaving the battery disconnected for half an hour. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gregg, Always worth giving the under-seat connectors a good dose of contact cleaner - and a good wiggle - before doing anything else. Beware ( in caps) do not remove or violently wiggle any of the connectors. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Louise, Realistic view would be that if it needs a new roof, it would be a totally uneconomic proposition. Option:- Do an on line search for Classic car trimmers within a sensible radius, and get a quote there to replace the glass. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Ian, Yes, that’s the plate I meant. Nothing to lose I expect from removing them to see what you can see, but I’m inclined to believe the connection is in the quarter/pillar panel. If the seller was a breaker, then I guess they will know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Probably too basic a question - before moving on:- Do you see anything if you remove the two Torq screw you have already slackened, do you have any better view of the wire connection point? Other option:- contact the seller and ask how they removed it. My guess is the rear quarter pillar panels will need to be removed, and these are normally clipped in. Having said that, I think you are wise to ask before pulling at some inappropriate point. Kind regards, Gareth.

Where are you searching Asad? By description, I would say you need:- Right FRONT upper control arms - front and rear. Have a look on Parts in Motion website. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Scott, so at least my idea eliminates the EPB being the culprit on that wheel- so a worthwhile call. Re. Logical step of replacing the parking brake module :- then I’m losing your logic, since you have already tried isolating the EPB on that wheel with no improvement.

Hello Gavin, Although I’m not certain on Audi’s protocol on that, I would simply ask myself - would you change the engine oil without changing the filter? For best peace of mind, I would be raising that question before you collect it today? Kind regards, Gareth.

Did Daryl fix his car after???

Hello Anth, Also worth getting back to basics and getting the alternator output checked. Kind regards, Gareth.

As I see it Scott, releasing the parking brake (albeit affecting both sides) and running the car is the logical way to test whether it is that - or not - that is adversely affecting the one rear wheel. If the situation improves, bingo there’s your answer. If it doesn’t improve, at least you have eliminated that possibility. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Scott, Is electrically disarming the parking brake on the offending side an option - so that you can eliminate any ill effects of that system? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks again Ryan, My thoughts were that you had carried out work on the car, attempted to have the wheel alignment checked, and found the cambers on the respective wheels were x degrees left, x degrees right ( where x is usually < 10 degrees). I’m now getting the picture ( pardon the pun) that this is (substantially?) visibly wrong. If this is correct, you certainly have an issue! Again - just an impression - but does this car come with a chequered history ( coil overs etc.) ? In addition ride height differences (measurements should always be taken wheel centre to under wing) indicates non matching springs and/or breaks. All of this isn’t going to help you, but this is indeed a can of worms, and could be anything from basic misalignment as Cliff suggests, to wrong wishbones etc.etc. etc. One step ahead would be to get the car sitting on correctly pressure checked tyres, and take it for an alignment check, to see what you are actually talking about, before deciding where to go from there. Kind regards, Gareth.