Magnet

Hello Steve, Sorry to hear of an associated bereavement, and of course, very happy to post your advert. It’s possibly my inexperience with values of these, and sorry to point out what may turn out to be incorrect, but my basic searches point to the car price being high in comparison to others advertised - even by £10K? or more high, compared with others of not too dissimilar mileage examples - particularly for a private sale. Wondered if you might be able to post some photos to aid a sale -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Understand Roger, but I think you will find most of your local motor factors operate via. EBay as well.

Where have you tried Caroline? Do you need the motor as well? Kind regards, Gareth.

Any particular aversion for EBay Roger? I think there is a high % of motorists who treat this as probably giving the greatest choice of parts you will find anywhere - both (majority) new and secondhand. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for joining Will, but to expect a response to a 9 year old thread is a very tall order. Could you please re- post as a new thread. Thanks, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back and letting us know what the actual cause was Kelly. I’ll now mark this thread as solved. Yes, I too would be pursuing the RAC. It’s reasonable to expect that they would (1) have found the fault and/or (2) removed the replacement starter motor and refitted your original, once it had been proved the new one did not solve the issue . Perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Just of a matter of interest Roger, had you looked on EBay before you posted? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Simon and thanks for joining. Can you let us know what brands you have been cross referencing for your clutch parts - hopefully LUK / schacs -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Simon and sorry to hear of your issue. Putting it as I see it, I’m not surprised. Springs should only be renewed in pairs on the same axle. Failure to do that will result in more labour costs than would have applied if both had been done together. Springs can vary according to vehicle spec. e.g. sports suspension/ non sports etc. Neither you or I know whether the first one fitted was actually the correct one or not, and whether the second one was from the same manufacturer and spec as the first one. To move forward, you need to be certain a pair of correct ones from the same manufacturer are bought, otherwise you have increased potential for the situation you find yourself in. For a bit of clarification:- Enter you reg. no. into Parts in Motion ( Exeter) website, and see what part number variants ( if any) you come up with. I would recommend you have a look at ones by Febi. Perhaps you could keep us updated Simon. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. classic wrong way to measure ride height Simon! Always measure from wheel centre to underside of wheel arch lip - never from ground. Always do measurements on level ground though.

Welcome Roger, The good news is, they are at least available from your dealer. Many have found they aren’t, and have no option but to get new ones made. Worth doing a search on here for similar posts on this topic, since that may well give you a lead to companies who will manufacture to your pattern. I think this will be your best option unless EBay Continent shows any. Worth trying commercial vehicle hydraulic specialists if getting them made up. Let us know how you get on Roger. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Paul, Would this screw/bolt have an approx 10mm head? There are ‘special socket’ tools designed to remove mangled head on bolts and on nuts - try Screwfix and/or Halfords, or your local motor factors. Can’t get it to turn with a Mole grips or similar? If all else fails, you will need to carefully drill through the head remains so it falls off. I would go straight to your dealer for a replacement fixing, rather than shopping around to try to find what you think you will need. Obviously be more expensive at dealer, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks indeed for updating us Matt, and we look forward to hopefully hearing that all will be well once you have it back. It’s reassuring to have favourable returned comments, and although we trust you will not need the forum again, please keep in touch for any advice you may need at any time. Take care, Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Karl, Does this model have air suspension? If so, I wonder if the ‘motor’ they are referring to might be the compressor. If air suspension, have you noticed anything different in ride heights of late? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Greg, Treat this car like the local vicar would, to improve your chances of the clutch lasting as long as it does. Build up speed very gently when entering dual carriageway. Sorry, can’t resist this :- don’t do duels with dual carriageways! Good luck with getting it to last. Kind regards, Gareth.

Classic car clubs usually know of private enthusiasts who are capable of recommissioning. Well worth investigating. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, We can only go with the information we are given, and that includes ‘Battery was tested by RAC’. Rest assured that if the breakdown services can (justifiably?) sell you a battery, they most certainly will! Not having done so, makes it pretty clear that they found the current battery to be serviceable.

Hello Neil, I’ve ruled out battery issues being the primary cause since Kelly has attempted to jump start it without any change. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Kelly, I think I get the situation that the starter motor isn’t actually turning the engine over (as it would normally do when you turn the key). By standers saying ‘it’s not even turning over…’ confirms my understanding. Who replaced the starter motor - not RAC-? Whoever, you need to get them back to sort it. Could be a number of wiring associated causes, so it sounds like an hour out with an auto electrician, or your friendly local garage. it’s likely the original starter motor wasn’t faulty. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Neil, and thanks for joining. It sounds as if it’s trying to lock the car, as it should do with the ‘drive away’ locking- or whatever it is called - whereby the vehicle locks itself at speeds above an arbitrary 8mph. Not sure, but my initial stab at it would be a suspect driver door lock - hopefully others might be more specific for you. All in all, it sounds like getting it plugged in for faults, and/or the need for the services of an auto electrician. Perhaps you could keep us posted Neil. Kind regards, Gareth.

Have you checked on EBay Chris? Also registered you want with on-line breaker link systems such as Partsfinder and others -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Kelly and thanks for joining. When you say it (still) doesn’t start, do you mean the starter motor still doesn’t turn the engine over, or it does turn it over but it won’t start the car? Either way, I think it’s going to be difficult to identify the cause without having the car to assess and test, but please let us have an answer to above first. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jean, I would suggest you do a search for local classic car clubs around your area. If you cannot find a multi-make club, then it’s worth approaching say the local branch of the MG Owners, since they will have a larger club base. You can then talk to one of the club officials and ask their advice on what local garages are ‘sympathetic’ to classic cars. You can then approach these and outline your recommissioning requirements. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Chris, Re updating:- asked a couple of times. Objective:- your experience and our advice builds up the picture which will be of help to others in similar situations in the future. Without your updating, everything degenerates to no avail. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m not sure why you visit the forum Chris- as recent as the 14th August - yet are not prepared to update us -?

Any chance you can comeback to us Daryl, and let us know how you got on - for the benefit of other members in the future. Many thanks, Gareth.