Magnet

Welcome David, Cliff raises a good point, so let’s have some clarification - do your reversing sensors work? If so the switch should be serviceable. Perhaps you could let us know before we move on to more complex checks. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, Can see you have revisited the forum. Do you intend to fill in the detail or not?

Hello William, My hearing is poor, so unfortunately the recording doesn’t do anything for me. Suggestion:- remove the auxiliary belt when cold and test again. Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Julie, Welcome and thanks for joining. What is the capacity (cc) of your engine, and what has been the service history of the car during your ownership - from new? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Michelle, This is starting to reveal itself as a possible multi-leak situation, and not necessarily restricted to the boot, by the sound of it. As such, I think its resolution requires a methodical approach, by trying to eliminate each possible site in turn. Unfortunately it’s going to entail first removing carpeting trim from the boot sides etc. and checking and double checking that the boot lid can be quickly opened via the key once the lid is closed. The reason for that is that you now need to find a small agile assistant who is prepared to get into the boot, - armed with a light - once you are equipped with a hose. Before going any further, do you feel this is within your capabilities? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michelle, So does the car normally live its life outside, or is it normally garaged? Is the inside of the car dry? Possibly pessimistic, but I think you are onto a hiding-for-nothing to be returning the car back to the seller. If it were mine, I would now be adopting a DIY detective approach to finding the leak site/s. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Michelle, and thanks for joining. Assuming the car is parked outside-? If so - One question:- Do you get water ingress simply when it’s raining and the car is parked and not in use? Is the water ingress worse when actually driven under road-wet conditions? Kind regards, Gareth.

So back to the question:- Do you know the camshaft was actually turning when you had the zero compression values? I guess the answer is no - ? Heavy carbon build up on some valves-? I’d be considering the likelihood of oil burning on that/those cylinders, suggesting bore or ring wear.

Well fair do’s to you - as we say in these parts:- You have won the major prize for the greatest lack of detail of any post within the last year! Why?? No name, no model, no year, no location. Oh, and no Please! Perhaps we can ask you a question - how are we supposed to help you - whoever you are?? You aren’t AI by any chance? No highly unlikely.

Was the camshaft actually turning when you carried out your compression test? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Kevin, Sounds a good idea to keep giving it a coat of thinking about! No, wasn’t an Audi. If you Google ‘Winterbourne’s Austin Sixteen’ it will give you a flavour of the major one of a few over the many decades. Good luck with whatever you decide with the Audi - for me, it would be look after it, attempt to maintain its current condition, and enjoy it for what it is. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Welcome, thanks for joining, and sorry to hear of your issue. I guess your quote is from an Audi dealer-? You may well find that this is a main dealer part only, but well worth a search to find what is what. I would start with EBay, if only to find the most used term for these, and potentially view used ones, or maybe even new ones - often from Continental suppliers. This is a good place to do your homework, and hopefully point you to aftermarket availability or not. If you are lucky, and they are available via. aftermarket suppliers then you will obviously be on to a much better deal. You might then find U.K. supplier listings, and Incase it helps, I’ve used Parts in Motion to good effect. You will also find Autodoc so again worth a try there. If it turns out these are main dealer parts only, then you could try Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors - once Cardiff Audi) they have been known to give a bit of discount and do mail order. Please come back to us if you find an aftermarket source and we can advise further on reputable brands. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, A local long standing used car sales always used to say - some many years ago - he would only sell Hyundai and Kia if he could get enough of them. That was when they were cheap. Nothing cheap now! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Welcome and thanks for joining. Sorry to be a pain but I’m a little confused by ‘…wearing on the inner sidewalls..’ and ‘tyre wear across the tread is even all across…’. Can I take it your tyres are indeed wearing on the inner edges of the tread? If they are indeed wearing in this way then there is either suspension wear, or the alignment isn’t actually correct. If there is suspension wear then you cannot reasonably check the alignment. My experience of wheel alignment points me to having confidence in the ability of the equipment used to check to alignment, but often little confidence in the operator’s ability to use it successfully. Kind regards, Gareth.

Really sorry to hear of your misfortune Steve, but it seems ‘an ill wind….’. It sounds as if all will be well in the end, and that’s the main thing. Interesting to read about Skoda rather than Audi, if only because virtually all cabs around here were Skoda going back around 10 years. I didn’t realise Skoda parts prices were going to be that much cheaper than Audi, but I used to get all my Audi parts at good prices from a Skoda dealer up the NE, until the supply dried up. It seemed VAG wanted to charge them 2 arms and 2 legs for the computer cross reference listings - making it totally uneconomic! Those who have stuck with VAG for cabs around here, seem to now favour Seat. Has Seat become the cheapest brand in the VAG range? Hope it all works out for you Steve. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

You are welcome Nolan. We are all different, but to me, it would be of primary importance to me to do these preliminary checks, before getting further involve. Audi Approved is fine, but isn’t an absolute guarantee of quality. Your call of course. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kevin, What is the coolant temperature gauge reading after a few miles of running? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Melissa, Thanks for joining and sorry to hear of your plight. If you bought it within the last 30 days, then you can reject the car and be fully reimbursed. I would anticipate that even if you bought it more than 30 days ago, you should have redress if you reported the fault within the 30 days. Did you accept the first available booking in date given to you by the Audi dealer? Apologies, for another question - Did you buy it from an Audi dealership? If so then I believe you should have a 90 day warranty, so they have to repair it to your satisfaction. The fact that you have finance on the car is to your advantage, since they obviously have an interest/ obligation. I would suggest you book an appointment with CAB to aid your case. Kind regards, Gareth.

Interesting that this thread has been resurrected, and looking at Tony’s post, I see his Ford Classic. I believe it’s now for sale on EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nolan, and welcome. On a general note:- Has the vehicle been advertised with service history, and if so, have you been in touch with a local main dealer and requested copy of the service print out - via. the reg. no.? Have you viewed the on-line MOT history? Have you viewed the on-line DVLA Vehicle check, and noted the issue date of the latest V5? Recent issue date might ( in caps) suggest the last owner has had it for a short period - obviously not a good sign. Kind regards, Gareth.

Heel Tony, Moll are German made batteries and were (as you now know) were, and still may be, OE suppliers to VAG. Having said that, I recall there were some within-warranty issues with some of them some 3 to 4 years ago, so yours has done remarkably well to last 10 years. As you probably know, the 69aH value denotes the battery’s capacity, and the 680amp, is the current it is able to generate under cold cranking conditions - it’s CCA rating. Upshot - you are looking for a replacement where the values match or exceed these values. Type will be AGM or EFB. If you are going to buy from Tayna, it might be worth going back to them and ask for confirmation that the Exide they supply will be equal to or better than your current Moll. ‘Reliable garage to carryout the installation’…….I take it that will include coding the battery to the car, as opposed to just fitting. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Irfan, but you will need to tell us exactly what this service plan covers and for how long? Kind regards, Gareth.

‘No rodent problem there’ then. So the explanation is that you took your own mouse on a holiday to the garage and he was happy enough not chewing your wires when the car was at your home. He gets bored with his existence at the garage and really misses your home, so in his boredom, he decides to have his own back and chews your wiring. How’s that for a plausible explanation!? Kind regards, Gareth.

You seldom come across folks who admit to having rodent infestation.

Thanks Jamie, so nothing wrong with the current one, you just want to wake up the neighbours! I take it you have Googled ‘performance exhaust systems’ and come up with a list of possibles. Not my line of experience, but you may indeed find that you may struggle to find a system for the 1.0 litr due to the low demand resulting in it not being worth suppliers tooling up to make a limited number. Kind regards, Gareth.