Magnet

Hello Vijay, Thanks for being in touch. Sounds typical of battery issues - which would tie in with the anticipated service life of a battery fitted to a car with a stop/ start system. Worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time, but I wouldn’t anticipate any problems there. If it needs a new battery, then it becomes important that you spend wisely on its replacement, rather than any ‘brand x’ make which the garage may obtain from their local motor factors. Battery efficiency is vitally important these days. For me, I only use Varta/ Bosch with a minimum of 4 years guarantee. These can be delivered to the door by on line specialist suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tanya, Plymouth Batteries etc. All of these, and more, sell on EBay, where you will normally get free delivery. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Thomas, Thanks for being in touch. Sounds typical of near side wheel bearing issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks indeed David, That really is a great link. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bradley, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Costs for tyres? Easily Googleable when you are armed with the tyre size, and decided what quality tyres you want - budget thought to premium brands. Brakes? Are we talking discs as well as pads? Do you know the amount of remaining pads at the moment? For prices, simply search EBay, and you will find numerous examples of various quality parts, often including main dealer parts at discount. Only you will know whether you are going to replace these parts yourself or having the job done for you. Shock absorbers? Normally long lived. Do you suspect the car/s you are looking at have issues with these? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Billy, Thanks for being in touch. It’s usual for the driver’s door module to control the remaining doors, and for issues to start with that door, and migrate to affect the other doors. Since you say the issue with the passenger door started (coincidence?) when anew fob battery was fitted, it may be worth going through the fob resetting procedure, which you should find via. Google - and has been listed on here from time to time. Pessimistically, none of these procedures have worked for my spare fob, but you never know your luck. Failing this having any influence, I fear it’s a matter of seeking (diagnostic?) guidance from a trusted local independent, or removing the driver’s door panel to check things out - if you feel confident. On thing puzzles me ‘...the outside handles don’t open the door, I have to lower the window to open the door from the inside’...! How do you lower the windows without being inside the car? I know you can close them via. the locking on the fob, but opening? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, This sounds like an issue with the reservoir low-level sensor. These are often located in inhospitable places, and can suffer from contact issues. Air lock? Really don’t think so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, I believe this issue is an MOT failure, if any of the doors cannot be opened from outside, at the time of testing. It appears Mathew’s can be opened from outside once the door has been opened from inside - and before the automatic lock comes into play. Yours? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joe, Many thanks for being in touch. Since you don’t have a spare wheel, then a jack will be surplus to requirements. To tyre sealant and compressor is supposed (in caps) to replace the need for a spare wheel. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mathew, For what it might do, have you tried switching the double click from off to on? Unlikely to make any difference, but worth a try. If that doesn’t work, then I can only come back to my earlier points. MOT? Understand your concern, but ‘technically’ if you unlock the passenger door from inside when you present it for testing, then it can be opened from outside - so shouldn’t be a fail - until you drive off - which won’t be part of the MOT procedure. On a best-safety approach, it should be seen to, and I would suggest going along to an independent and talking it through with them. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, Suspension? Rising? I would have expected the compressor to be lethargic in raising the suspension as the battery becomes below par. I can only think that the system may have an inbuilt ‘fail safe’ which activate under these conditions. If this were mine, I would be treating this from the simple things first principle, and checking and replacing the battery if necessary before being too concerned about anything else. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, Thanks for being in touch. I think you are right to suspect the battery - if we assume it is the original. I would be thoroughly inspecting all the connections and main battery and body earths as an initial check, and if satisfied with those, take the car for at least a 15 mile run and then get the battery efficiency checked. If it proves to be suspect then I would only replace it with a quality brand, such as Varta/Bosch, but selecting their grades which give you at minimum of 4 years warranty. I tend to buy from on line battery specialist such as Battery Megastore, Tanya, Plymouth Batteries etc. who offer competitive prices and delivery to your door. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, When you say oil sensor light, do you mean low oil level warning, or low pressure warning? Re. Cost of oil and filter change? Any local garage and or large tyre retail chains etc. etc. will give you quotes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies David, We take it it’s only the codes from EOA down, you are in doubt about. Unfortunately, it would appear there isn’t any expertise on here to be able to answer your question. If this were mine, I would be ringing the parts department of your nearest dealer - or indeed Audi Customer Services, and I’m sure that either/both should be able to decipher the codes via. an e-mailed copy of the label. I’ve had helpful response on these build record codes from parts departments in the past, for non Audi. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Thanks for being in touch. As I see it Tom has answered your question better than I would have. The leasing company are the owners, and you have agreed to their terms, so you must comply with them. ‘Strictly in line with the manufacturer’s recommendations.........only by authorised Audi dealers’ is unambiguous, and if this were mine, I would be sticking with the supplying dealer to service the car, since there cannot be any debate about the correct level of service it should (in their - the supplying dealer’s judgement) have. We take it this car is on a PCP? If so, hand back condition can be a cause of debate, so any deviation from contract is likely to cost you at that time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Hopefully there will be other recommendations for premium branded tyres with good wear records, but for me it’s always Michelin. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Manjit, Many thanks for the additional helpful information. To try to keep this as simple as possible - If it were mine, I would do exactly the same same as you did with the Vectra. The relationship between you and your garage, worked for you then, and I see no reason to deviate from it just because it’s an Audi. In effect, it seems you have a concern regarding difference in the value of the Audi when it reaches 10 years old if it has full Audi service history or the same level of service (with maintained receipts) if it is serviced at your local garage. As I see it, at ten years old the difference -if any- will be marginal, and certainly will not be accountable in terms of the extra spend at Audi. Others may have alternative opinion, but my recommendation would be to follow your experience, but ensure that whatever parts you buy are genuine VAG (at discount), or a limited number of aftermarket brands. Kind regards, Gareth

Hello Bob, This may not sound too polite, but you really need to ditch your two mechanics, and substitute them for an hour’s time with one trusted local autoelectrician. I would certainly not be changing anything until both battery and alternator are tested - both simple tests. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bob, It seems you have posted two posts quoting similar, but not quite the same symptoms, but both appear to point to battery issues. Have you had the battery tested Bob? This would seem to be the obvious place to start. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Will, Many thanks for being in touch, and hopefully other owners will contribute with their actually-achieved figures. As a broad brush stab at it, I would consider your figures to be reasonable if compared with the quoted claims - which are notoriously optimistic. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Many thanks for being in touch. Good question, for which there will no doubt be varying opinion. It sounds like the previous owner liked his mods/drove this enthusiastically, and ultimately the decision whether to revert to ‘How Audi designed it’ or not, becomes a personal thing. If it were mine, then originality would be king, and back in goes the original filter set up. If you prefer mods and enthusiastic driving then you could choose to leave it, and even consider adding other ‘upgrades’. Not sure if this really helps Dave. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Many thanks indeed for sharing your experiences at your Audi dealer. Most interesting, helpful, and paints a clear picture from a different angle. There’s a lot of dealer - often referred to as stealers by some posters - bashing on here, and grizzles that dealers won’t give part numbers so they can buy the correct aftermarket parts, and so on, so it’s refreshing to have an alternative point of view. Competitive prices on tyres in relation to Kwik Fit is indeed interesting since KF seem to be far more competitive - even cheapest - than they were. Let’s hope that your post may help the original poster to come to a decision that suits him. From my standpoint, it frustrates that posters join the forum, post a question, and don’t return to look at the responses which people compile at the (considerable) expense of their time. Still, there might be valid reasons why this frequently happens! Grizzle over! As a matter of interest David, do you come south to Cardiff for your main dealer, or is there one nearer to you? Cardiff Audi as was, now seems to trade under Mon Motors, so just interested in the Monmouthshire/Mon Motors connection. Many thanks again and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mathew, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. This could be a door latch issue, or (but not the exactly sure with yours) all doors can be controlled by a module in the driver’s door. I would feel this is a job which it would be worth referring to a trusted local independent, who has probably come across this before. As a matter of interest, do the rear doors open as they should be double clicking the remote? Kind regards, Gareth. Having read your post again it’s worth checking you are doing this as you should:- pressing the unlock button on the remote once, should just unlock the driver’s door. Pressing it twice in quick succession should unlock all doors. Perhaps you could come back to us to clarify what you are actually doing.

Hello John, I’m not sure here whether you have 3 not connected, issues, or 3 separate issues. So difficult to advise without more in-depth meaningful detail, but:- Scraping noise - have you checked that any part of the undertrays etc has not become dislodged? Sticking throttle? - don’t know Throttle and acceleration out of sync. - again difficult, but worth Googling resetting the throttle position sensor. Not sure on your particular model, but it would be something like switching on ignition and pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor, and return 5 times within a specified time ( say 20 seconds). After the 5 x presses, wait for something like 20 sec. and fully press and return again, and switch off ignition. The above is from memory, so please Google and follow the procedure. Kind regards, Gareth.

Ok David, Following on from what I thought, and what you say you dismantled, if this were mine, I would now be minded not to do anything in respect of getting a wheel alignment check, but simply keep a close eye for any tyre wear which wasn’t present pre the hub change. I make this decision based on that sometimes the sophistication of the machine exceeds the operator’s abilities to correct any perceived misalignment - a question of leaving well alone, unless seen to be an issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, My gut feeling is that you would not be altering the rear alignment by changing the rear hub, but since you did the job yourself then you are going to be more aware of anything you took apart which wasn’t any way ‘adjustable’. £120 at Audi - not surprised. Why not get it checked (usually free of charge for the check) by a trusted local tyre company on their now-usual four wheel alignment equipment? This equipment is sophisticated, sometimes beyond the expertise of the operator! - so carefully select who you use. Kind regards, Gareth.