Magnet

Thanks Jess, In marking your homework! :- MOT history? ( as opposed to date of MOT). Has it ever failed, and why. Advisories? Have they been attended to? This 11 year old car is not being sold directly from a main dealer is it ? Don’t expect any paint warranty on an 11 year old car. Obviously too late now, but deposits are usually non refundable ( but probably transferable at the same seller) so my pre-purchase procedure is to always do all the homework, and gather copies of evidence before paying any deposit. Apologies for the pessimism, but unless you are competent at fully assessing this vehicle, then the ‘insurance’ is to invest in a professional inspection - particularly since you’ve already have one bad experience under your belt. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

‘Few weeks back…’ - should have a warranty. After all, a convertible would be expected to have a working roof, otherwise it’s not fit for purpose. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Jess, but I fear you are going to look at this car without having done much homework, and that puts you into a potential ‘falling in love with the appearance’ situation. Personally, I wouldn’t do it. ‘until I get there I won’t have check the service history etc…’ why not? ‘But there are other costly services I should be checking’ - what are those. Shall I boil the homework done?:- Look at the online MOT history recorded against the registration number. Look at the DVLA Vehicle check to see the date the last V5 was issued - this can give you an idea of how long the last owner has owned it. Short ownership - suspicious. Ask the seller to e-Mail you copy of whatever service history they have. Ring up your Audi dealer and enquire about whatever service history they have recorded in their ‘National’ system. Is it the car for sale at some distance? If so, you may have to kiss goodbye to the practicalities of getting any guarantee work done there. It’s interesting that you mention ‘Black Edition’ - as if this is more important than mentioning anything about its mileage etc. at that stage. Sounds like the pitfalls of falling in love with the looks of it, and what it has. You mention ‘costly checks’, but costly checks can save you an awful lot of money going forward, so consider the costs as a potential investment. Perhaps you could come back to us and let us know the homework details Jess. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Frankie, Trade or private sale? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jess, Thanks for joining. To save us suggesting what you may already have checked, what have you looked into in terms of this particular car’s history? Also, trade or private sale? Local to you or not? Are you contemplating having a professional inspection on the car before committing, to minimise the risk of ‘getting stung’ again? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nadim, Many thanks for posting your advert, and for the comprehensive description. Just a couple of points you might add:- Number of owners, and how long you have owned it-? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jordan, Many thanks indeed for coming back on this. I can only repeat my earlier suggestion of booking this in with a trusted local bodyshop, rather than Audi, but I appreciate that your route may be more acceptable and reassuring for you, and give you greater peace of mind. Whatever you decide to do Jordan, perhaps you could let us know the outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

And the ride is likely to be harsher Karol, due to the lower profile tyres. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hampshire Steve, Apologies, but my view rests in a similar camp to Steve Y, but I’m old! We read that the 20 mph limit is going to be introduced on a wide scale by late next year, so unless we live on a motorway junction, we are all going to be doing more fast walking pace than go-faster pace! This is going to sound harsh Steve, but you’ve got an estate car - built for carrying loads, so why the quest for more power? - unless you intend to carry heavy loads at a faster pace. We are all different, and for some, it’s great to be able to talk ‘torque’ down the pub with like minded folks, so I guess unfair of me to stand in the way of ‘mine’s faster than yours’. Anyway one person’s take on this, which might just help to raise a few contra opinions on here. Tongue in cheek, that’s what it’s aimed at. Good luck with whatever you decide to do Steve. Kind regards, Gareth.

Where have you tried Sanjay? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Put a pessimistic hat on and hope for the best. I think you will hear too many stories of ‘full service history’ prior to viewing, only to find after you have travelled a fair distance, the claims cannot be substantiated to the same extent as you understood. I would be asking for e-mailed proof ( apologies if you have already done so). Can we take it you have viewed the on-line MOT history and the date of issue of the last V5? Homework is king Chris. I think you might be well advised to have a professional (AA type) inspection carried out before travelling. OK it’s an expense, but buying at a distance can be a gamble. Also considers the practicality of any guarantee offered - due to the distance involved. There are many indicators of enthusiastic maintenance - such as matching tyres on the same axle etc. etc. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. any clutch repairs carried out?

Hello Shane, Personally, I would steer clear of clutch specialists, based on they will have their own choice of clutch components which could be highly price influenced rather than quality biased. They will probably promise you everything you ask for, but you’ve no idea how much of it will actually materialise. Repeating - if it were mine……. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shane, Sorry to hear of your issue. My money is not on clutch wear as we know it, but the clutch friction plate and pressure plates being sprayed with clutch fluid from a failed ‘release bearing’ assembly ( slave as we used to call it), - now inside the bell housing- which has been a common issue with many marques. If it were mine:- Audi clutch prices can seriously damage your wallet - even if they do make some good will gesture. Well worth getting a quote from your trusted local garage, but insist they use LUK or Sachs parts. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Many thanks for being in touch. I fear this is indeed going to be difficult to answer, and I think I must fall into the category of ‘try it out’, based on the chances of finding another 6ft 8 inch tall, 18 stone A5 owner with mobility issues on here. Of course, let’s hope I’m wrong and someone can help you, but I feel you will have too long a wait on here, and would probably be better advised to just go and try one. I really hope it works out for you Andy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jordan, Short of stripping out the carpet and side panels, I feel this may be a difficult solve. However, let’s hope someone on here has been-there-done-that, and can pass on their experience. ‘Booked in with Audi’ - OK, that’s one route, but an alternative may be a trusted local body shop. Very often a more experienced route. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, So what space did this ‘equipment’ occupy in the boot in the last model? Kind regards, Gareth.

Or engage the services of a couple of local undesirables. They would get into it quicker than you could call the AA!

Seems it was bought to break Steve. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I must admit to a complete ignorance of COD, and had to resort to looking it up - now I know ( Incase on the off chance there is someone else on here who didn’t know either) - Cylinder on Demand. I’m now left wondering what volume it takes then to house the equipment that drops 4 cylinder down to 2, that negated room for a spare wheel in the boot -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Turlough, I would not want to give you a definite yes/no with your car, but what I can give you is:- Apparently E10 has been on the Continent for a number of years , and you don’t hear of many - any? disasters. I ran 3 non Audi classics ranging from 1957 to 2003 this season on E10 without any issues. Did the same last year to a lesser extent due to Covid. I will also be using it next year in a 1935 car, when I raise it from its slumbers! Don’t you still have access to E5 in NI as we do? If I understand it correctly petrol is cheaper over with you than it is on mainland U.K. -? Peace of mind is always worth spending on, so just use E5 if available. After all, if they put the price of E10 up to the price that E5 is now, then there would be no option but to buy fuel at that increased price. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jamie, Classic below-par battery issues ‘ going to phone around for best prices…..’ . Um! ..If you mean buying the cheapest you can get, then I smell trouble. If this were mine, then I would be looking for best quality at most competitive price from reliable specialist sources. More often than not, buying from specialist on-line suppliers is the most cost effective route - you can try Battery Megastore, Tayna, etc. (there are more). I always buy batteries with a minimum of 4 years warranty, and favour brands such as Varta/Bosch - and now Exide seem to be getting a good name. However, beware that some of these manufacturers have varying grades - so go for the higher grade. Your battery will be delivered to your door, but you will need it coded to the car. If you are inclined towards the simple route, come what may, you could just go to Halfords and pay for a battery from them, and most stores will be able to code them, but best quality at most competitive prices -? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Darrin, Thanks for joining and posting your plea. If I’ve got this right, the garage are suggesting one or more of the numerous rubber joints are causing your issue. Are you now asking forum members to suggest which one is the offender? If so, I guess you will appreciate this would be extremely difficult without access to the car. I this were mine, I would be asking the garage to spray all the rubber joints with ATF ( automatic transmission fluid) in the hope that that will ease the noise. Perhaps you could let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apart from main dealer, can we take it you have searched EBay, and registered your ‘wants’ on the on-line car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder? - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neville, I seriously doubt the fuse is at fault since the driver side is working. You’ve told us the seat cannot be moved leg-room wise, but can we take it none of the other seat functions (recline etc) work either? Pessimistic it may be, but it does seem like you are going to need the assistance of an auto-electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

The benefits of the assistance of Percy Verance comes to mind! Mirror, contact cleaner aerosol with a long nozzle etc. Etc. - or just take it to a garage who can put it on a lift and have the under-seat area at eye height. There isn’t any quick fix for this Neville, so you have little other choice than the above two - as I see it. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Motor burnt out? Balance of probability would suggest no, since it’s the lesser used passenger seat - unless your passengers are in the habit of making frequent adjustments to the seat positions.