Magnet

The benefits of the assistance of Percy Verance comes to mind! Mirror, contact cleaner aerosol with a long nozzle etc. Etc. - or just take it to a garage who can put it on a lift and have the under-seat area at eye height. There isn’t any quick fix for this Neville, so you have little other choice than the above two - as I see it. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Motor burnt out? Balance of probability would suggest no, since it’s the lesser used passenger seat - unless your passengers are in the habit of making frequent adjustments to the seat positions.

Hello Neville, It could be as simple as a dirty connection, so have you squirted it with some contact cleaner - do not ( in caps) disconnect anything. Did you check ( with a mirror I guess) that there isn’t anything jammed under the seat? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Thanks for joining and posting your plea. If you don’t have invoiced evidence of its change, then simply take it that it hasn’t been renewed, and worry! Yours should have been changed in 2019 and if so, will need changing again in 2024. I would suggest you change the auxiliary belt at the same time. We take it you have enquired whether it has been recorded on Audi’s computer system as having been done-? Kind regards, Gareth.

Perhaps you can let us know how you get on Andrew, and trust they are of the same quality as my non-Audi ones. Long delivery - well we get spoilt by the likes of Amazon and we’ve become a nation of want on demand. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gareth, Simple things first:- worth getting a comprehensive test on the condition of the battery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Germaine, Hopefully we will hear from Norman, but your car is under warranty, so Audi has to sort it. Have you brought this to their attention? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Glen, Plenum drain holes clear? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Richard, Have you tried registering your ‘want’ on some of the on-line breaker websites? Partsfinder is one, but there are more . Also EBay? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neville, We do seem to be going around in circles with this. Have you got the physical printed hard copy which would have come with the car? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Norman, I have a feeling that possibly this isn’t going to answer your question, but….. Straight from the school of eliminating simple things first - with a vast array of equipment on such cars, the battery gets a hammering, and it’s quite common for systems to stop operating/ throw up warnings, as the monitoring of many aspects of the battery’s efficiency shows up some deficiency in its performance. 3 and a half years old batteries giving issues? Again not uncommon. Unlikely association?? Personally, I would want to eliminate before throwing anymore handfuls of £100s at it. I must say Norman, your post makes me appreciate even more, the advantages, and almost worry-free motoring enjoyed in a long association with the good old Morris 1000. All you needed was a key - or someone else’s key! - and off you went, without any concern about warning lights and systems not working. Not a diagnostic port in sight, no hint of ADAS - you just had to keep your eyes open, and respect the rule of the road that dictated the occasional wandering sheep took precedence. Life was far less complex, and almost no worries about what ‘toy’ was going to stop working today! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Drew, I think there is a lot getting lost in translation here, and being polite - it could just be me - but I’m at a loss to understand any connection with earlier posts for E- tron. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Chris, I could well be wrong, but I have a feeling that the ‘if it’s fitted, it should be working’ principle has a slight edge over any other ‘reason’, but it’s your vehicle, and you obviously have the choice of what you want from it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Neville, but the definitive source of the fuse box layout for your model, will be in the handbook supplied with the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Drew, Sorry, but could you put a bit more explanation to add to your post? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Raphael, As Cliff says, but it sounds as if a linkage off the lock has seized. You could try some WD 40 into the lock, and down between the glass and the trim along the top of the door, but be careful that the WD40 tube doesn’t get stuck in anywhere where you don’t want it! Of course, beware of putting too much strain on the key in your attempts to unlock. Short of that working, it sounds as if you are going to need the assistance of the breakdown service/ local garage to get in. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Neville, Have you had a look in the handbook for the fuse location? Is the driver’s seat operating as it should? If so, then it’s perhaps unlikely to be a fuse, since I would expect both seats to work off the same fuse - but you would need to confirm via. the list of fuses. If indeed it isn’t the fuse, then I would suggest it might be better to invest in an hour’s time with a trusted local autoelectrician, unless you are ‘handy’ with such issues. Possibles:- Seat jammed - have you checked under the seat for any obstructions? Possible dirty connector under the seat ( quite common), and you could try a good squirt of contact cleaner, but do not ( in caps) disconnect anything! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, Incase it helps, but it possibly won’t. If you’ve looked on EBay, I wouldn’t discount any mud flaps from China - just because China! I ordered a set for our non-Audi, and as I said in an earlier post - the fit and quality was equal to what would have been my expectations if I’d bought them from a main dealer at 3 times the price. Might be worth having a look on Alliexpress website. Not sure what they do for Audi, but… Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neville, Thanks for joining. Can you please give us rather more to go on, in terms of your issue, and what you have checked so far. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Did you get the battery checked after? Re. Stop/start - Is it important to you that this system works, from an environmental point of view - or simply that ‘if it’s fitted it should work’? Obviously if it’s the former, then I must respect your views. If it’s the latter, then my view is that it’s an engineering averse system ,and you are far better off without it. Maximum wear occurs on start up, and of course the additional wear on starter motor and battery is accelerated. For that reason, I have to remember to disable it on our non-Audi, every time I get in it! Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Steve. Reverse light switch is fine, since reverse light comes on, and as said, I get a steady 10 second continuous bleep when reverse is selected. Not sure, but going to investigate the possibility of one faulty sensor, on the basis that it could be one-out-all-out, and they simply all go on strike! I’ll report back when I get further into it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wondered if anyone has been there/ sorted that, with the above problem. All I now get with the 2006 Sportback is a continuous bleep for about 10 seconds when selecting reverse, but no further proximity bleeps. Just hoping someone may be able to throw some light on this. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Not claiming your problem is associated with this, but dirty contacts in under-seat connectors do cause issues. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, ’…always put in branded Ad Blue… normally Redex…’.. Redex is probably the most prolific and one of cheapest available. I’m certainly not saying it’s anything but the best, but it would be good to have hands-on experience from volume users. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. No relation to pal Brendan -?

Hello Mohammed, ‘I wish I was that competent!’. All the bodyshop workers who you are going to approach will have started from a platform of zero competence. They will only have become more competent via. a wish to do so. Your rust issue really is simple to work with, and would be a great starting point to develop enthusiasm in this aspect of DIY. In terms of actually eradicating the effects of the rust, then you are more likely be successful than they are, since your time doesn’t cost money, and they have to work within the time constraints of the quote. You will just take your time in an attempt to be thorough. Anyway Mohammed, the questions you ask are irrelevant if you don’t have any intention of spending some time with this. If you really did, then time could be spent on going through the detail of the procedure with you, but I’m sure you will understand that I wouldn’t want to spend time unnecessarily. What I certainly would do if it were mine, would be to mix some car shampoo in a jar, and clean up the paintwork areas around your rust spots - doesn’t look as if it’s seen any attention since it came out of the showroom - if you don’t mind me saying. This would assist your chosen bodyshop in assessing the full extent of the issue. Perhaps you could let us know as things proceed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mohammed, Would I be right in believing the rust is only associated with pressed holes in the inner wing? If so, rust perforation ( holes) would not really apply in this case - as it would do with a smooth body panel. You could try asking them if they consider the rust surrounding the holes is typical of what one could expect with this model, and see what reply you get to that. My feeling is that if this rust is left untreated (as it has been for some time) then it will ‘perforate’ the metal surrounding the hole, so if this were mine, I would be wanting to do the best I can to reduce that risk. I think you have to be realistic and understand that this is a nine year old car now, and such things are going to need attending to if you want it to last. Kind regards, Gareth.