Magnet

Hello Ian, I too would go with your theory, and couple it with checking the Park switch -as starting points (pardon the pun). Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Uldis, but sorry, I don’t understand. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Left and right, but only when cold is confusing. Normally such knock on lock issues are restricted to one side, or one side worse than the other, and is generally attributable to drive shaft issues. Your problem doesn’t sound like that, and I’m sure you will appreciate that trying to diagnose any such noise issue with out examining the vehicle is going to be difficult/impossible. Apologies, but I would suggest you get this carefully investigated at a trusted local garage as soon as possible, since the car is trying to tell you something. Steering and noises is not a good recipe! Perhaps you would be kind enough to let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Philip, If these trims are actually aluminium, then it’s likely that they will have been polished, but then coated with a two pack lacquer. Without seeing the current condition of them, it is difficult to recommend the correct treatment which will improve their appearance. Personally, I would not be tempted to use any abrasive type polishes unless you are certain that the existing coating has been eroded away. Can you post a photo of one of them? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bruce, ‘......Serviced at Carshop at 36K.............and a few more times ..........now 70K’. Are you sure this was service 5 times in 35k miles? Can we assume you have seen invoices for these services, or have you just seen stamps in a book? If you are sure it has indeed been serviced at these intervals, then I would not be too concerned about the Brand x oil, assuming good quality filters have been used. No doubt the seller (dealer?) will be offering to service the car before you buy it, and if so, you may well end up with Brand x oil again. Re noise? If you are serious about buying this car, then I would be opting for an independent inspection at an Audi dealer or an independent, before agreeing to purchase it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Locking one way only Ian, or both ways? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Thanks for contacting the forum. I’m of no use to you with this one, I’m afraid , since with everything I’ve driven, the lights only come on when you open the door. Given the dealership a ring? I’m sure they will give you sound advice. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christian, Thanks for being in touch. There are numerous threads where advice (and questions such as new/secondhand?) on where to try has been listed - even yesterday. I’m sure you will find suggestions via. search. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ashley, You can buy mechanical assistance on the basis of a mechanic is a mechanic, is a mechanic, and you can keep going back to him ( or a number of such) and simply pay again and again for non specialist knowledge. You use the term ‘specialist’ and infer they are likely to be expensive. Not always the case, but they will specialise in your engine, and will know where to focus in a far quicker route - or you keep paying numerous small bills. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Apparently the air temperature sensor is incorporated in the MAP sensor, so that was changed to sort the issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Pete. It’s a great help if such information is provided within the initial post, to negate the need to suggesting avenues already tried. Try registering your want on Partsfinder etc. - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Why don’t you entrust this to a trusted local diesel specialist Ashley? Far better than A.N. Other unknown normal mechanic. Ask a friendly taxi driver for a recommendation - they usually know where to go. Start by having an hour’s checking of the issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Daft question Pete, but tried the Audi dealerships??

New or secondhand Pete? If secondhand, then register your want on on line breaker links, as has been suggested on here on numerous occasions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Raymond, Thanks for being in touch. On back to first principles - first check the compressions on each cylinder and report back. If they are all acceptable then you would appear to have reasonably covered mechanical damage issues. I’m certainly not claiming this is your issue, it could be something like a camshaft position sensor which might also have been a victim of the whole damage scene. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back with the very useful update Richard. The lesson here is that you can have a service book stamped to the hilt, and assume that this is the be all and end all of a ‘good vehicle’, whereas in reality, it can just equate to an odd morning out on a ramp. You just cannot beat a discussion with the previous owner. Back to this car. Would I automatically discount it? Not before getting an estimate of how much oil this car is consuming in say 1,000 miles (I’m sure the previous owner will advise). If not frightening, then I would be asking myself how inconvenient and expensive this is going to be over say a year’s use. The car is 11 years old, and if all good in other respects, then what difference is adding some oil going to make to its overall enjoyment? At least you know the issue with this one. Refunding deposit:- I think you may well find that technically deposits are non refundable, so you could have an argument on your hands. Probably well worthwhile taking advice from CAB. Kind regards, Gareth.

I would suggest you don’t assume that ‘new’ = serviceable, until proved to be so. Not wishing to appear critical, but why allow an engine to run its coolant up to a totally unacceptable 130 degrees, and allow steam to come from the engine, before deciding to slow down/pull over/get off at next junction? Chances are it is now likely that you have done some mischief to the engine/ coolant system, and that this possibly recently caused issue will be taken to be the reason for the original overheating - when it may not have been. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Karen, If this were mine, I would be getting this looked at without delay - the car is trying to tell you something. Obviously, brake pads would be the first thing to look at, but........just get someone to check it over pronto. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ashley, Still some unanswered questions, such as - are you going to get the coolant system pressure tested, what quality parts were used in the thermostat, water pump, cambelt change? How much coolant is being used in say 100 miles? Kind regards, Gareth.

Let us know how you get on Gareth.

Hello Steve, Thanks for being in touch. Um! Actually disconnecting connections under the seats? Braver than me, since you are likely to come across seat belt pretensioner connections under there - often linked to air bags - and I wouldn’t fiddle without knowledgeable confidence. Spraying (proper) contact cleaner on the connected connectors and wiggling them yes, but anything more?? Where to go now? On a DIY basis, invest in some contact cleaner and find the appropriate fuse ( refer to handbook) for the heated seats, and without removing the fuse ( unless blown), spay the area with the cleaner, and wiggle the fuse in its holder. If that doesn’t do anything then I would think you would be wise to employ an hour’s services of a trusted local auto electrician, since fiddling with electrics may not be the way forward. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Thanks for coming back. Did you by it from an Audi dealership? Possibly not, due to it being slightly too old. If yes, forget about the air filter if (could be in caps) they changed it, so worth a no-expense look at it anyway. If it didn’t come to you directly from the main dealer, then I would be replacing the air filter with a genuine VAG one anyway as an assurance starting point, incase it either wasn’t changed at all, or if it was, it was repacked with a brand x aftermarket one. Have a word with Malcolm in Parts Dept at Aberdeen Audi. Lovely helpful chap, and he may give you a discount! Its possible there is something at fault, but always worth starting at base points. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Michael, The code on this family member’s A4 was read using a Snap On reader, so no cheap kit! When I couldn’t find any such component, the person who diagnosed it had it back, and as I understand it, it came back fixed. I think I may be able to find out what the offender was in the end, but it could take a few days of enquiring. Can you leave that with me and I will post the outcome on this thread? Incase it helps, I understand the EML was on with this car for a couple of months before it was fixed - with no ill effects. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I could do with your bodywork skills down here to sort a small ding on an 18k miles, 30 year old Metro. Completed the repair with aerosols, but crazed after a few months. Similar using same paint source with a small area on the A3. Never had any such issue with same technique in well over 50 years. Appreciate there are many reasons why this can happen, but the only thing different is the mixed paint source. Still, hopefully Percy Verance will come to my aid!

Hello Kate, Thanks for being in touch. Its almost impossible to visualise what concerns you without viewing the car. If this were mine, I would be returning to the repairer, armed with a photo of the same model year, which does not show the offending bracket. They will be duty bound to sort this to your satisfaction. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, All vehicles smell rich on start up, as you would expect them to do, since they are running on an enriched mixture until they get up to operating temperature. If you feel this is indeed different from what it used to be, then indeed there may be something wrong. Simple things first:- when did you last change the air filter? Lets move from there on a step by step basis. Kind regards, Gareth.