Magnet

Where have you searched Ruben?

Hello Anthony, We’ve seen some short posts, but yours takes to major prize to date. I now know the difficulty the vets experience, since the animals can’t explain to them exactly what the history of their issue is, but we can! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christopher again. It might be well worth giving BAS - Cwmbran, S. Wales a ring. They are a well respected specialist high end car trimmer near my neck of the woods, and they are likely to have the experience of which adhesives are most suitable for the purpose. To me, I think it’s the preparation and removal of any earlier adhesives is the main problem here, but should be doable with patience. Alternative:- consider sewn-in ‘Perspex’ rather than bonded-in glass? Again BAS might advise. Kind regards, Gareth.

Last thing before going forward Mussa :- Check with a local Audi dealer for any unknown service history recorded on their site. You may need the VIN as well as the reg. no. Worth a try to see if it fills the current gap. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, If not obvious leak site around the expansion tank, then it might be worth try a new quality replacement cap. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mussa, You are very welcome. Hope this doesn’t offend, but the car’s service history is somewhat sketchy, with a 4 year/23K miles gap in its recorded history. If it were mine:- I would treat this to a major service prior to its MOT. This would include air and pollen (cabin) filters at this stage to establish a sound base point with which to move forward with - as mentioned. I would get the garage to then reset it to an annual service schedule, and you just as well have that done prior to its MOT every year. I would certainly get the brake fluid changed, since there is no recorded evidence of it being done prior. I would also get the auxiliary belt changed at this stage, since this can cause damage if it fails. Good practice is to renew it when the cambelt is changed, but you don’t mention that being attended to. Where to get it serviced?? I favour a local trusted garage, where you can actually talk with the mechanics and discuss any issues found, but respect whatever you feel more comfortable with. Whenever you decide, I would be restraining a filed copy of the servicing invoices from this point on. Hope some of this helps Mussa. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Tony, If needs be, I wouldn’t be taking it to Audi before spending an hour’s time with a trust local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Who was the professional who advised you to buy a new hood Christopher? Have you tried taking advice on the mainland? I did use a ‘industrial/professional’ type contact adhesive that has remained well secured for over 25 years - but that was 25 years ago, and the memory doesn’t serve well over that time! Suffice it to say, there will be something suitable out there. Research is your best friend here, and once you find that ‘industrial’ adhesive, you will need to ensure the mating surfaces are scrupulously clean - this will be the secret to success. Sorry I can be more specific. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mussa, It seems your annual mileage will be low at c5k, so the car should be set on an annual service schedule, since low mileage/ short journey trips take their tole on any vehicle. I take it you checked the service history before purchase, and hopefully you have obtained a print out of what has been done and when. In the unlikely event that you don’t have any earlier servicing details for the car, then I would treat this to an oil and filter, air and pollen filter change type service, and arrange to get it serviced every year from there, and renew the air and pollen filters every two years. Brake fluid change? Was every two years, and again if no record of it being done within the last two years, then I would be getting that done now as well. If you adhere to this level of servicing now, you will have a sound base point to move forward from from here on. Perhaps you could let us know about it’s previous service history. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, Buy yourself an aerosol of contact cleaner and give the floor a good squirting as close to the connectors as you can get. Worth a try. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Depends how sophisticated the AA’s battery efficiency tester was. The fact that they didn’t check the alternator output at the same time might not bode too well. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, I take it your car is fitted with electrically assistance P.S. -? If so, the first port of call would be battery efficiency. Well worth that checked getting before moving on. Also worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, These motors seem to suffer from water ingress, so this would be a good place to check first. If all is well there, then it’s worth checking the wiring in the flexible harness section twixt body and tailgate. This is a favourite place for wires to fracture, particularly in cold weather. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, Since you say it has stopped working, then you suggest it had worked previously under your ownership - correct? If so, then the absence of the fuse suggests an error in the handbook, or you are looking in the wrong place, since if it was working then there must be another fuse somewhere. If indeed a fuse has blown, then it’s done so for a reason, and that reason has to be found first. Common issues with seat motors can be dirty contacts in the plug in connectors under the seat, so a good squirt of contact cleaner is alway worth a try. Do not ( in seriously large caps) disconnect any plugs, other wise you run the risk of activating the airbags. I this were mine, I’d be tempted to invest in an hour’s time with a trusted local auto electrician unless you are very competent with such things. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Ann. We’re the quotes of £486 and now £510 both from the same source? If so, I guess that increase is due to the parts price increase between the 2 quote dates -? As a matter of interest, have you had a price from your local main dealer? I tend to check with them since it doesn’t always work out that independents are cheaper on all jobs - cambelts being one, due to main dealers often having offers on renewing these. One other thing I would point out is that I would be renewing the auxiliary belt ( sometimes called serpentine belt) at the same time, since it generally has to be removed anyway, and the increase will only be the cost of the belt. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, I have the 2006 version of the same car - been in the family since new. Very little to complain about with it so far. Your linkage? Can we take it you don’t want to buy a new one? When you say you have tried breakers on line, can we take it you’ve registered your want with the breaker link systems such as Partsfinder ( there are more)? I would expect there is nothing more complex in terms of availability about this particular model than any other 2004 A3. Availabilty new? Check with Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors who were Cardiff Audi). They tend to offer a bit of a discount. I’ve just bought a part for ours from a Midlands person who is breaking a 55 plate A3, and I think that maybe a Special Edition. I’ll let you have his number if you PM me. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jeremiah, Thanks for joining and welcome. It’s quite possible that your car was not built with fold in mirrors, and this would have been a not-ordered option. Any Audi dealer should be able to e-Mail you a print out of the build record if you ring them with your VIN. This will confirm whether the car was built with this option or not, and allow you to move forward from that point. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Looked in the handbook Vdm? I would have thought 95 should be fine, but handbook would need to confirm. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks, but it doesn’t make sense to me why an originally produced - same aged part - cannot be fitted to your car. Yes, Audi may have ‘replaced’ it with an updated unit, but…

Secondhand part available via. searches Giacomo? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Thanks for joining, and welcome. When you say you need to renew the cambelt in 25K miles, when was it last done - date wise? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, I think you have answered your own question. You are considering a model with the suspension biased towards road holding and not comfort. I think the S Line attracts due to the additional features which come as the package, but the trade off is understandably a harsher ride. Don’t like a harsh ride? Best not to buy an S Line. As well as so called ‘sports suspension’ you will probably find it has low profile tyres, and maybe have the much harder sidewalls of run flats. If not, possibly XL. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Sounds typical of clutch ‘release bearing’ (slave cylinder) issues. Not at all uncommon unfortunately. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lel, Unless the car’s interior is absolutely dry before you cover it, then you are creating the perfect environment for mould to grow - humidity, increased temperature, and lack of air flow. Kind regards, Gareth.

What offer would you consider reasonable then Matthew - to avoid being messed around? Kind regards, Gareth.