Magnet

Hello Peter, But what is your actual issue with the car, that you are asking Car Shop to rectify, and have given you reputed poor service with? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Being the cynical old so and so that I am, I was led to believe that Audi drivers didn’t know what indicators were for! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, Under the old school of car ownership - for which I am a full paid up member!- you must check your oil every 1000 miles maximum, and at any point before you undertake an unusually longer journey than normal. Same for coolant level, and tyre pressures. You would not be allowed to put your faith in warning lights to tell you when you need to add oil. Check oil level, only on level ground, and after the car has stood for at least 2 hours. It sounds as if the dealer checked the oil when hot and added some when it wasn’t really necessary. You now need to regularly check it (when cold) and monitor any oil usage over a specific mileage travelled. Don’t worry about anything, until you have proved you have something to worry about. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Blue, If this were mine, I would be discussing the part brand to be used, with the warranty company, and if possible even providing the chosen part yourself, and present it for fitting even if this would incur a minor expense on your part. Beware of the often (alway?) used term ‘O.E.M quality’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello again, I would reasonably expect that if this work is being done under warranty then only the offending one would be changed - the warranty would not cover ‘anticipated future wear’ of other units. Wonder if you could clarify how the need for a new link was discovered? Again, if the work is being done under warranty, you may not have as much control as you would like over the choice of parts used. Even the poorest quality should last the anticipated one year warranty on parts. Meyle ‘heavy duty’ vs. Lemforder? Heavy duty can be a much used selling term, along with OEM. I can only restate that it’s been Lemforder (which I believe was the original equipment supplier) for me - if that helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ted, Many thanks for the clarification that your car repairing abilities amount to zero - no problem, it’s just that you have to now give up trying to self diagnose the cause of the issue. It’s a bit like going to the doctor and tell him what is causing your particular pain. It this were mine, I would be finding myself another independent, since you are not impressed with this one’s knowledge. Cutting to the chase, even if you do manage to diagnose the cause, and you instruct someone to change component x, you will obviously be picking up the tab even if it does not rectify the problem. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ray, Yes, appreciate it’s a hybrid, but the ‘alternative fuel’ only able to take you less than half a gallon’s worth of fuel? My environmentally friendly hat would be coming off for a few seconds, while I do the mental arithmetic bit of working out how much alternative energy (and cost) is expended to travel this silly extra distance. My other (silly?) comment would be that I bet - with careful driving - you could coast that additional distance (at zero energy cost) over a tank full of fuel. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ray, Defies my logic of faffing about for less than 20 miles. Really - what is the point? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Blue -? Thanks for being in touch with the forum. I steered (pardon the pun) clear of brands promoted by a certain 3 letter national supplier, and bought Lemforder ones - may have been from them, or their often- cheaper sister company Car Parts for less. Buy once and wisely, and not on price. Try EBay for alternative suppliers of the same brand at more competitive prices. Yes, I would change both sides for peace of mind. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arm, Could I be excused for thinking this has been in the hands of a boy racer? Of course, if this is what appeals then great. Adding to the potential downside:- private seller, no warranty. Is this beware territory? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ted, Cheaper to just nip into an independent? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ray, Just to eliminate any confusion in my dotage, can you confirm that your Audi will only convey you approx. 15 to 17 miles from a fully charged battery? Surely not. I’m having difficulty in getting my head around that, since it is barely a trip to Tesco in these rural parts! - and certainly won’t get you to the next motorway services! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Unfortunately, the original poster hasn’t returned to the forum from two days after he joined, however, you may get a response by sending him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jatin, My money would be on an unserviceable battery - despite what Kwik Fit tell you. I’m pretty certain your car is fitted with a Battery Condition Monitor (BCM) and this is continually monitoring all parameters of the battery’s efficiency and will start to shut down various features, as the battery becomes deficient in any monitored parameter. Probably, Kwik Fit’s test was a basic check. The batteries on Stop/Start equipped vehicles obviously get a hammering, and can deteriorate at a rate of knots. Your car is 7 years old, and it would be surprising if the original battery has lasted that long, and not impossible that it has already been replaced, and that one is now failing. What make battery is fitted to the car Jatin? That should give you an indication of whether it is the original or not. A couple of points, if you do decide to renew the battery:- Buy once and wisely, and certainly not on price. I buy Varta/Bosch ( their 4 or 5 year warranty variant) from specialist on-line battery suppliers such as Battery Megastore or Tayna ( there are more - search EBay for best deals on these). Double check the correct battery you need by giving the supplier your registration number. It is highly likely that the new battery will need to be coded to the car - otherwIse the system will assume it’s still the old battery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Bruce, No change from mine then. Is it essential that you fit roof rails as opposed to under- door-aperture roof bars (when needed) - not that I like this type. Aren’t the supplying dealer of the rails prepared to arrange fitting? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bruce, It sounds as if this model is still similar to the earlier A3, where the roof has to be drilled to fit these rails. I thought about it for mine, but decided that wasn’t going to be for me. I can well understand Bodyshops not wanting take this on - there are easier ways of making a living, and I feel you may indeed continue to struggle to find anyone who is interested, and if they are, you have to have complete faith in their ability and experience in carrying out a good job. Hopefully, one of the members has had a similar quest, and has found someone who has indeed carried out a good job. - fingers crossed for a favourable response. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Whereabouts is Alva? - save me looking it up!

Hello Emma, I’m sorry to hear about the sad loss of your Dad - particularly at such a young age. I don’t want to pry into your personal circumstances, but I think it could be wise to think about whether an extra £1000 or so is more important than a relatively hassle free disposal of the car. Only you will know. Yes, you can technically tax the car at any point at which it has a current MOT, although you will need to transfer ownership into your name to be able to tax it. Given that DVLA are currently under pressure, the issuing of a V5 may take some weeks, so (probably?) this should be done sooner than later. I place probably in brackets, since it adds another owner to the car’s history, and it might be better overall to leave the current V5 as it stands. Although you can tax the car without it being insured, it is a criminal offence not to have insurance, and there is obviously no way you are going to get insurance cover for it. Re. MOTing the car, you will need the MOT station to collect it, and deliver it back to you. Even if you did tax the car, it would be illegal for anyone to drive the car even if they have an ‘ entitled to drive any car not owned’ cover on their policy - the car itself has to have an insurance policy in force. The only way in which this can be legally driven is by someone who has motor trade insurance. If I was in your situation:- I would search EBay and say Autotrader etc. and get a range of asking prices for similar age/mileage/condition models, and select an acceptable price from this range of prices. You will need to reduce this price to take into account the fact that prospective buyers cannot road test the car without trade plates. Cars which come to the market due to such unfortunate circumstances, are frequently sold to friends of family members, by canvassing the fact that the car has to be sold. Wonder if you have investigated that route? Possibly some points which may help Emma, but if you think the forum can help further then please let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Luke, Not sure if you mean the auto electrician didn’t have any idea, or if the diesel specialist they recommended, didn’t have any idea?? For recommended diesel specialists in your area :- enquiring at your local taxi rank usually comes up with good recommendations, since these boys depend upon good service for their living. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Sorry to hear of your unfortunate incident, and hope you are reasonably OK. I would be keeping a close eye on what the insurance company are proposing to pay you out as a total loss, since all later vehicles have increased in price of late - possibly since you renewed your insurance. You will need to do as much searching as you can to get the very broad experience of what similar mileage and specification examples are currently retailing at. Bear in mind that the advertised prices are far more likely to be non negotiable - than they were. Another point of doom (apologies for this but should be appreciated):- even if the accident was of no fault of your own, and even when you get your excess reimbursed by the lorry owners insurance, your premium is more than likely to increase at the next renewal - simply because you have been involved in an accident. Even if you have a ‘Bonus Protected’ cover, that does what it says, and protects the % bonus you have, but does not protect from future premium hikes. Worth enquiring about the lorry insurance reimbursing you in respect of this future expense? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Luke, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. When you say ..’ had it at several garages…’ - would any of these be diesel specialists, as opposed to ‘garages’ ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Umar, If you do need to buy a new battery - which sounds most likely - then I would strongly advise buying once and wisely. Audi usually build with Varta batteries and Varta/Bosch are my choice for replacement batteries. I believe there are now budget variants available from Varta and Bosch, and I certainly only only be interested in their premium variant - with 5 year warranty if possible. I now buy batteries on line from specialist suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tayna etc. I would advise against simply buying a like for like replacement without first checking with the supplier that the battery you currently have is indeed the right one. It’s not out of the question for batteries to be swopped at changes of ownership, so always worth double checking. As Cliff says - starting a car now again doesn’t really make sense, since it could take up to 20 mins. running to replace the energy you’ve used it start it from cold. Just put it on charge for half a day now and again - using the correct charger. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds good Gregg, but?? - Audi of America. Our American friends do seem to be able to get recalls etc. where we fail. Good luck, and please keep us posted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mo, I fear that if you are thinking about bypassing switches then you are really talking bodging ( with all due disrespect for the ancient craft of bodging!). The proper way around this is to isolate the cause, and this is why I would suggest investing in a little time with an experienced auto electrician. Playing about with modern car electrics can lead to trouble. You say you bought the car with this known fault, so I guess the price was adjusted accordingly, so worth a little of the savings? Couple of afterthoughts:- does the current wiper motor give any indication of being refitted or not being the original build one? If it is a replacement, it might need recoding to the car. Second possibility - the stalks can be problematic. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds a reasonable outcome Karl. Fingers crossed for a rapid and effective fix, so that you can continue to enjoy the car. Now we know why the last owner parted company with it - of course, having informed the receiving dealer of the fault! Enjoy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mo, Sorry to hear of your issue. Before advising, are you armed with the necessary test meter, and an understanding of modern car electrics? I not, I would strongly advise that you buy in half an hour’s labour with a trusted local electricians. By passing switches (rather than replacing them) - if at fault - would not be the recommended way forward. Kind regards, Gareth.