Magnet

Many thanks Dan, I wonder if you would be kind enough to let me have the EBay link to the armrest clip? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello P, Many thanks for updating the forum, and I understand the action you have taken, and it would seem that the dealer has been as accommodating as he can be with you. Again, I can only speak as if it were mine, and I would repeat my earlier advice, based on giving it a further trial test. This advice is based on the fact that you liked the car, and being realistic, any secondhand car is likely to have some issue/s which will need resolving. Still you now have an outcome which suits you, and that’s important. It’s starting to look again now then P. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello P-? Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. It is obvious by your description, that the car was actually - externally leaking - coolant, and being pessimistic, I think there would be little chance of anyone on here being able to diagnose the exact source of that leak without inspecting the car. Moving forward:- you certainly did the right thing by returning the car to the supplying dealer, and OK, they couldn’t replicate the issue. It is possible, just possible, that they did in fact find the source of the leak and fixed it. This is probably an over reaction, but when you pick it up and check the coolant level before starting it, have a look at the surface of the coolant in the reservoir to see it there is any evidence of any slightly metallic looking deposits floating on the top of the coolant fluid. If there is, this might indicate that a leak sealer has been added. I would think not, since you stated the leak was external, but…… If it were mine, I would then replicate your journey and obverse what happens. Irrespective, of the outcome, I would then be booking the car in to a trusted local independent and getting the coolant system tested - and reported on, if found to be at fault. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on P. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Zakk, Sorry, no personal interest, but just trying to suggest additional information which would be helpful to serious enquirers. Kind regards, Gareth.

As I mentioned earlier, I believe the dealer will set the required service schedule dependent on the anticipated annual mileage. For low mileage use the servicing alert will be set at a repeating annual basis, However, on higher mileage use, it will be set on a Longlife schedule, which monitors use and ‘driving style’, and can work out at services being necessary around 18k miles, or 18 months. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zakk, Many thanks for the detailed description. I wondered how long you have owned it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back on this Robin, and apologies for pointing out your mistake - I’m not usually as good at pointing out the mistakes of others, as I am in making my own! Audi dealer? My experience points me to paying a visit rather than trying to gain information over the phone. The problem you have is that they are (understandably?) reluctant to provide part numbers where they are not actually supplying the part. Having said that, I think you may get a positive response to a question about 2 door and 4 door compatibility. Cost? Um! I might be able to point you in the direction of a modest discount if you are serious about that route. Supplied colour coded?? It would surprise me if VAG supplied then in all the colours, but worth an ask. Could be a painting task as well as fitting. I still think you could clear your questions with a bit of searching and asking EBay sellers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robin, Logic would suggest they would be the same on both 2 and 4 door. I have a 2006 4 (5) door and could possibly compare if you post a photo of your 2 door. Having said that, EBay photos and requests for some basic dimensions should come up with the answer. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Just noticed your profile shows 2006, but your post say 2009 - so comparison with my 2006 may not be the answer.

Thanks for the clarification Stanley, Your additional information now makes sense of the issue. It would appear that your servicing requirement is set on an annual service basis ( you must have told them what your annual anticipated mileage would be -?). You will get the same servicing notification again at this time next year. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Anything with sports suspension (S line?) will be inherently harder on suspension than its non-sports equivalent. I’m not fully conversant with the options, but am I right in thinking that to get certain toys and trims, then you are governed by these only being available via. S.Line for example? In other words the buyer buys in to the things that attract, but maybe if ride quality is an important factor, then some of this has to be traded off. Can I be excused for thinking that appearance/attractiveness has become more important than the quality of the ride? If you add to this (and I don’t think you are) the apparent attractiveness of larger diameter wheels with inherent lower profile tyres, then this simply aggravates the ride situation. As Steve says, you need to drive one (again?) with the actual specification you have ordered, to ensure you can live with the ride quality. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Philip, Until it is established exactly what the degree of end float is here - and it should be in a small number thousands of an inch as Keith says - not in mm! (1mm = 40 thou.) then any work on this clutch will be repetitive and a waste of one heck of a lot of money and time, and could result in disaster. The quoted amount of end float is potentially engine destroying. If it were mine:- while it’s still in one piece and drivable (to some extent) I would be urgently booking this into Audi, or a trusted local independent, and getting the end float thoroughly investigated and a report issued. If there is indeed a serious amount of end float, then this would need attending to before (in caps) any other clutch work. If indeed there is an out-of-tolerance end float then there is something adrift with the crankshaft thrust ‘washers’ (bearings), and I can’t tell you whether that requires an engine out operation, or whether the sump can come off with the engine in situ. This is where my attention would now be directed Philip. Perhaps you could keep us informed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thank Olumide. I agree with you regarding the quoted cost appearing high for a ‘simple’ oil and filter change. However, without the original poster supplying us with the requested detail of exactly how old this car is ( and what has been its servicing history to date) then we must assume (for this to make sense) that the quoted price is for a ‘service’. Would VAG agree to do a simple oil and filter change for a vehicle still under warranty - if the service schedule requires a ‘full’ service at that time, and if they did, would the anticipated cost be £50 or less? Perhaps Stanley could come back with the answers to the earlier questions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Many thanks for the additional detail. It sounds as if you have had indications that the alternator is not behaving itself for a while, and your readings would suggest that may be right. ‘Genuine VAG (so I was told)..’ might be worth some investigating. Battery by GCS - what make did they supply Ian? If this were mine, I would be charging your battery as you suggest, and then investing in an hour’s time of a trusted local electrician, to thoroughly check and test the charging system and all connections - as well as the efficiency of the battery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Philip, I do indeed feel for you and the stress of the ongoing saga, and to be honest, I wonder if this saga is going to end favourably. Having said that, I’m rather confused why you entrusted this car to Mr. Clutch when cautionary advice was given, to allow you to benefit from the experience of others. Of course Philip, that’s now history and you can’t go backwards, and you must hang onto the hope that they know what they are doing. One point I would make - but would not want to excuse their actions - 6mm crankshaft end float is massive, and ‘no more than 3 mm’ as a limit, in my book would be excessive. Sorry to revert to old English, but even 3mm = 120 thou (of an inch) and personally I think a tenth of that would start to be concerning. Why did they go ahead with knowledge of a 6 mm end float?? If it is indeed 6mm then we are getting into the bounds of conrod misalignment and potential bore wear issues. Could it be that the flywheel is actually contacting the bell housing due to this forward movement of the crankshaft and flywheel?? - and that’s your noise. Perhaps you could keep us posted Philip. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Olumide, Apologies for a different opinion, but I would think it would be impossible to have an oil and filter change (with Audi approved ‘parts’) on a c one year old within-warranty A4 to satisfy the warrant conditions (and recording that oil and filter change on the Audi database) for £50 or less. It would be reasonable to expect that the dealer charge for the oil alone would amount to that, without the cost of the filter, and the labour charge, plus of course the dreaded VAT. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, This may have a lot to do with battery voltage and/or alternator issue. 13.7/13.8 volts out of the alternator seems a little low in my book - I would be expecting 14+ volts. Have you tried charging the battery overnight, and have you had the battery efficiency checked? How old is it? These would be my starting points in an investigation, before moving on to other possibilities. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ian - hopefully with a few less [Removeds]! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, I think it might be a little of a long shot since the original poster hasn’t returned to the forum for over 5 years. I would suggest you send him a PM in the hope you might get a reply. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stanley, Can you confirm that your car has covered one thousand one hundred miles only? Just a little confused with your now reference to oil change due at 11k miles. Can you confirm exactly how many months old the car now is? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stanley, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. I would guess that the car is either one year old or possibly nearer 18 months old. - could you let us know Stanley? If it is one year old then it’s almost certainly set on an annual service schedule. If around 18 months old then (incorrectly for your low mileage) it’s been set on a Longlife service. Irrespective, it’s due for servicing, and although it may seem unnecessary at such a very low mileage, it must be appreciated that the car has had a comparatively hard mechanical life due to its use - unless this mileage has been covered in substantial mileage journeys at very irregular intervals. If not, the car is likely to have have covered short trips where it will barely have got up to optimism operating conditions. Reference cost of service:- It may be considered that £255 is a high price to pay for a service, but no doubt you have invested a not-insubstantial amount in this car, and to now scrimp on its maintenance, may not make economic sense in the longer term. Saving money by having it serviced away from Audi? Yes, possible, if the servicing garage is VAT registered and provide you with an invoice showing Audi approved parts/oil have been used - and as they tell you - they have the computer facility to input the servicing detail into the VAG database - no service book to stamp now. Independents are likely to be equipped to do this, but what will be your saving over Audi, and will that saving be worthwhile if you have to get into a debate about a warranty claim. I think if this were mine Stanley, I would be biting the bullet and getting it serviced at Audi, particularly since the car will not have depreciated to any degree comparable to what you would have expected when you bought it, so there’s a bonus there. Ongoing? I would think that Audi will set this on an annual service plan ( if not already so), so if it’s bad news, the same service will be required this time next year, if your usage remains the same. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, I think it’s evident from the replies, that you have a problem car (engine) on your hands here, but personally (although I understand your logic) I would not be devoting much more time to trying to establish more facts or reasons for the issue, from here. Time is of the essence here:- (1) in terms of not driving the car unless for an essential investigatory reason, and (2) I would not be wasting any more time in formally notifying the seller, in writing ( e mail will do) that you have a potentially significant issue with the car’s engine. While you are doing this, I would be seeking out a trusted local Audi independent and tentatively booking the car in for inspection and report ( the report bit is important). You can then tell the seller that that is your intention, and asking them to agree to this - or of course, disagree with it. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth,

Many thanks for your helpful post Dale. Unfortunately, the original poster has not revisited the forum since the day he joined and posted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ted, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. As well as hopefully receiving responses from here, have you had a look on what is available on an EBay search? I’ve just had a quick look for you and there are 20 currently listed from £2000 - albeit to £3000. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shahban, In order to hopefully aid your sale, would you be able to post a couple of photos, and perhaps colour in some more details such as when it was last on the road - if not currently MOT’d etc. ‘Open to offers’? Again perhaps it would be better to give prospective buyers an idea of what price you are looking for. Good luck with your sale. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Russell, Many thanks. Not quite sure what you actually mean ‘I do t have confidence so will certainly look for an (auto) electrician’. Re. ‘coding’. This is a computer programming action which ensures the car ‘recognises’ the new battery as being a replacement, so that the charging system etc. doesn’t continue to treat it as if it was the old one. Possibly an auto electrician might be able to do that, but a local Audi independent specialist would be able to - and that would be my chosen route for subsequently checking the whole charging/possible discharging situation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Russell, ‘….knowing where to go….’ .? I would say that it’s reasonable to think that there is something wrong with your car if you consider the number of batteries you have renewed within the warranty period. OK, replacing the battery again, and all seems well at the moment - no doubt you’ve been there before. Do you have confidence that all will now be well going forward? Back to not knowing where to go…. If it were mine, I would be booking this car into either a trusted local Audi independent, it a trusted local auto electrician - both can be found via. a search. Objective - checking the charging and possible discharging, and enquiring about coding the battery. If you don’t, then you run the risk of this car being out of warranty, and a big bill biting you in the bum. Kind regards, Gareth,