Magnet

Hello Chris, I’ll try to respond to your comments:- We all gain more experience from making mistakes than from doing things correctly, so lesson learnt re. thoroughly checking the service history next time. Ignore Halfords reference to checking cambelt. If you read it, it refers to checking the interval at which the belt should be changed, not examining the belt for serviceability ( not possible anyway without some degree of dismantling). Seems someone likes to tick toothed belt boxes annually! If this were mine, I would take it that the belt, tensioner and associated water pump have never been changed and are now overdue x2, since the timed interval is generally every 5 years, even if the mileage covered is low. Forget Haldex if not Quattr. ATS? Defending my corner, I didn’t say they were bad and certainly not ‘really that bad’. The upshot is Chris, if you are happy with them, and what they carryout in terms of what you consider a ‘full service’ then I would be tending to stick with them, and simply not worry about what they actually do, and don’t replace. Come to think of it, it was me who ‘complicated’ matters by asking what they did do for your believed expensive service charge! Just as a aside, I knew a fitter who worked for ATS for years, but bought the same brand of tyres cheaper across the road, than he could at ATS using his staff discount! Things might have changed. I think you will be suited to getting your servicing done there, and that’s fine, but I would now be concerned about the apparent long overdue cambelt change (judging by the available evidence) - and the potential for serious issues if this is ignored. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, No problems at all about asking additional questions. The asking bit is simple - it’s the answers are more complex! 3/7/18 servicing work? Brake fluid and toothed belt (the all important cambelt) change, ticked but not stamped. Can we take it you just have a tick in the box but not an invoice? Have you got any information to point to who ticked the boxes/did the work? If not, realistically it should be treated as dubious. OK, the brake fluid not the end of the world for the moment, but an overdue belt renewal might be. Sorry to pass potentially bad news, but.... Just let the form know if you need more info. on this. It would be worth checking the service book for an earlier (stamped) toothed belt change. ‘How do I know which parts I need?). Do you have an invoice for the last (Halfords) service? If not, but the book is stamped, what have they ticked as being renewed? Possibly just engine oil and filter? If this were mine, and I intended to keep it long term, I would be renewing oil filter, air filter, pollen(cabin) filter, and fuel filter. You will then have a good base point to move forward from - sorry, I think I have already said that. If you are from the school of ‘a service is a service’ and you are happy about that, then you could just accept what is done/not done and be happy with a stamp in the book. If you want to ensure the car is best looked after mechanically, then you ask exactly what is going to be done for your money - in relation to the filters etc. already mentioned. Quality of parts used? In terms of filters, I would only use main dealer ones (at discount) or Mann or Bosch as alternatives (nothing else). There are some pretty poor quality ones about! You are now left with being able to ask sufficient questions of whoever is going to do the work - and personally a trusted local garage who you can have a conversation with sounds a good bet. You can now decide whether you are going to have the brake fluid changed, and more importantly do the background homework on the ‘toothed belt’ done or not done saga. Hope some of this helps Chris. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Haldex and oil? Is yours a Quattro? If not nothing to worry about. Engine oil brands? I use Quantum (by Castrol?) This is/was the VAG group recommended brand. Available on EBay.

Hello Chris, Many thanks for the additional information - it really does help. Since as you say the last service was an interim service, I think you are wise to consider having a comprehensive service now, so at least you will have a base point from which to plan ongoing services. I think I would be wise to then consider the on-going servicing schedule from that point on, since this will dictate whether you opt for a Longlife type schedule (which uses a specific oil) or whether you will be getting it serviced annually. To cut to the chase, I would not rate ATS’s service charge is being expensive, but I would question the ‘quality’ of parts which they would use - possibly ‘best deals’ from their local motor factors. Personally, I wouldn’t use such outlets for servicing, but would either investigate the costings at local independents, or local garages -where you can dictate what parts are to be used. Having a service is essential, but using any old Brand x oils and filters etc. may result in the whole thing perhaps being really not worth bothering with. Probably questioning any of the above with ATS will be met with ‘We only use OEM parts’. You don’t mention if the service history includes a cambelt change within the last 5 years, or when the brake fluid was last changed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shaun, Glad that at least the mystery has been solved. Let’s excuse the garage’s oversight in not seeing it was wrong before handing the car back to you - we are in troubled times. Re warranty? Probably pessimistic, but it would not surprise me if this (not uncommon) issue was treated as ‘damage’ - as say damage to a tyre, but good luck anyway. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Does the car have any service history, when was it last serviced, and what level of service did it last have? Dependent on when it was last serviced and to what level, will dictate what will need doing now. You mention you need a price for a ‘full’ service, but you will need to decide if that is to include/must have a change of pollen filter, fuel filter (Audi don’t seem to schedule that), brake fluid, and the all important cam belt (if the engine is belted which I think it is ) and water pump. Until the forum knows what has and hasn’t already been done, then it won’t be possible to answer your question with any degree of accuracy. It will also be important to know whether you intend getting this done at a main dealer, independent, or a local garage. If the latter, it will be important to know whether genuine VAG parts are going to be used or not. Apologies for the questions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, You might find an ‘ordinary’ battery test may not show up that the battery is substandard if the car is fitted with a sophisticated Battery Monitoring System, since the old ‘drop test’ effectively since tests for voltage drop under load. Main dealers and some independents will have more state of the art monitoring kit which will test parameters such as cold cranking amps (CCA) - which can lead to the stop/start system not working if this CCA value is not consistently up to par. This test might be only possible via. an establishment equipped with a good VAG diagnostic set up. Have you checked on the price of a new battery - having taken the Ah and CCA rating figures off yours, together with the battery dimensions, so you double check you are looking at the right one? Maybe, worth buying a new one if the cost of a proper (in caps) test is more than you think. Well worth getting your economics sorted first. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shaun, Sounds like you have an aftermarket spring, and since you suspected - but since didn’t check - it sounds as if the incorrect dori g was fitted in the fist place, rather than it has subsequently sagged. Would I have then fit a similar spring on the other side - No (as you say). Would I get them to sort it out by now fitting the correct aftermarket spring?? Depends on your confidence in them. Third part spring (aftermarket in my book) or not, it should be compatible with the other side when fitted new. If it were mine, I would be getting a price for the part from Audi. Try Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff (part of Mon Motors -were Cardiff Audi) they do genuine parts at discount and mail order. Phil is your man there. Look on EBay for the price of the same aftermarket price, then decide what you are going to do parts wise, then decide whether you get the original garage to have another go, or find another one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shaun, I’m not saying your car is sitting level, but heights should be measured from the wheel centre to the underside of the wing, (not to the ground) with the car sitting on level ground. Possibilities;- New spring has now settled, and even fitting a new matching one on the other side, may result in the car not sitting level in the first place. Quality of spring? ‘Third part spring’ . New term for me, but tempted to think this is another phrase for ‘aftermarket’, and could equal not good quality. The garage must inspect and repair the car, since it assumed that it sat level when the new spring was first fitted - and now 4 months later, it doesn’t. New spring broken again? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, I cannot see that the alignment would change, once it’s set. Possible explanation? Was all the suspension and steering thoroughly checked for wear before the alignment was set in the first place? If not, then that could explain why it was found to be out again on the second occasion. If it were mine, I would be getting a complete inspection of suspension and steering before doing anything else. There just isn’t any point in simply adjusting things if there is wear. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well, of course you can simply replace it on the assumption that it’s now passed its best, but I’m from the school of test first and replace if necessary. Why Varta or Bosch ( same batteries but branded differently so it seems)? It is likely that the original battery was made by Varta, so it makes sense to replace it with a brand which the manufacturer used. You can of course, use batteries from different suppliers/manufacturers as long as they are a match for the battery technology type and specification in terms of Ah and cold cranking current ratings etc., but I have found that buying ‘on price’ is false economy in the long run. Having said that, where I suggested you get your battery checked are amongst the dearest for replacement batteries. I have simply stuck with Varta or Bosch batteries (but their 4 or 5 year warranty quality ones) and buy on line from specialist suppliers such as Battery Megastore ( buy via EBay to get free postage), Tanya etc. - there are more - and you are likely to find that the prices for these premium brands are little more than buying Brand x batteries locally. One thing to be aware of which might, just might, apply to your model year:- the battery may have to be coded in so that the battery monitoring system ( if fitted) is updated with the fact that a new battery has been fitted. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, To cut to your thread heading issue relating to stop/start, it would be reasonable to suspect that the battery will no longer be as serviceable as it needs to be to consistently operate the stop/start facility - even though it may adequately start the car on demand. Most manufacturers build in a battery monitoring system which continually monitors the battery’s performance, and if any of the parameters are below par, then the stop/start facility will be the first to shut down.if a Yes, the dealership will deduce the battery isn’t fully charged and it’s not unusual to blame the car’s usage pattern - short runs etc. - but at the age of the car, it would surprise me if the battery isn’t the main contributor here. You could try charging the battery (only - caps- via. an ‘intelligent’ charger if it’s an AGM type, which it most probably is ) and this might just result in the stop/start working again for a while, but reliably?? If the battery does need replacing, then personally, I would only replace it with a Varta/Bosch one having at least a 4 year warranty. Lights issues?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Apologies if this dampens your quest, but there’s a fair amount of experience that points to aftermarket sensors being highly variable, quality wise. I guess you have the discounted Audi price, but if you are still insistent on going down the aftermarket route, then the only make I would consider would be Bosch. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Apologies if I’ve got the wrong end of the stick, but generally, requests for part numbers are usually to assist in the purchase of secondhand or aftermarket parts. If buying Audi parts, then obviously it’s as simple as asking for the part at your nearest dealer - part number not required. In case it helps, you can get discount on genuine Audi parts via. mail order at Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff. - part of Mon Motors (were Cardiff Audi). Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Cutting to the chase, I wouldn’t be at all surprised if the battery is the offender here. Not sure whether your model year battery is the old style lead acid battery or the later AGM type. If the latter, then they should only be charged using a modern ‘intelligent’ charger. Self testing battery efficiency? Personally, I wouldn’t bother. I would take it for at least a 10 mile run, before running it in to Halfords, who should be able to test it for you. Buying a replacement from Halfords? Obviously your choice John, but I tend to buy my batteries on line from retailers such as Battery Megastore (via. EBay for free carriage), Tanya etc. I tend to invest in a quality brand such as Varna/Bosch from their 5 year warranty range. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well it seems you don’t need any more advice from the forum, you just need to buy new elements and get them fitted by some non Audi garage - job’s done as they say. As Cliff says, the fact that ‘switch’ works does not mean the seat heating control selection side of it does, but putting it bluntly, it seems you know all there is to know, and forum members are unlikely to be able to add to your knowledge bank, and that’s great, and we are all surplus to requirements! Good luck with sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, About 4 topics down from the start of the forum - headed Audi Recalls. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry, I can’t help anymore. Don’t think I’m getting through.

Hello David, Sorry to hear of your issue. This subject has been quiet for a while, but was so problematic that the forum has devoted a separate section to the topic. Unfortunately only bad experiences had been recorded following emission recalls, and such was the extent of the issue, the consensus of opinion was to keep recalled vehicles away from main dealers at all costs, since even insisting not to have them subjected to the recall didn’t seem to work. It might be worth reading (or perhaps not!) the posts under this thread. Appreciating all of this doesn’t do you any good David, but it may give some comfort to note you are certainly not alone with your discontent. Where from here?? Can tuning specialists assist with getting you back to where you were? Hopefully someone will come along on here and offer some advice on that prospect. Kind regards, Gareth.

Yes OK, so really it could be said that you had a responsibility to test the car before completing the sale - and you didn’t - so warranty?? What you really need to know is whether there is anything wrong with the heated seat, on your particular car, or if the heat level you have is typical of the model. That’s your priority to find out. If you simply get someone to replace the elements, as you suggest, then you may end up exactly where you are now! Yes, worth checking with the seller, but I would still follow my suggested path and get the car looked at by a trusted auto electrician, before deciding what is needed to be done, and who is going to do it. Of course, advice is given freely when asked for on this forum, and it is your choice to decide to follow any of that advice, or ignore it. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ian, I don’t think I would be looking to buy one of these off EBay, until I knew what price I would have to pay at an Audi dealer - you could end up buying secondhand at little saving - until you know different. I can’t really see what a part number is going to do for you, since the seller is unlikely to know that either. Your photo and some additional measurements requests should suffice. If you (understandably) don’t want to pay Audi prices, then it’s worth registering your ‘want’ on the car breaker network sites such as Partsfinder - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adyg1974??, Did you buy the car from a dealer, or from a private seller? Did you make it clear that efficient heated seats were essential to you, and did you test their operation - before buying- to ensure they met your requirements? Re. the problem and it’s solution:- Probably a daft question, but can we take it you have selected the maximum heat level on the heated seats, and it’s still not adequate? If that is the case, does the degree of heating change according to the level of heating selected? Problem could be to do with a faulty control switch. Two courses of action (if you don’t have any warranty - which you may). Invest in an hour’s services of a trusted local auto electrician, or buy a set of heated seat ‘covers’ for next to nothing, when Lidl have them on sale later in the year. Do you really, really need them in the summer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Many thanks for coming back on this. It might be me, but I’m failing to understand why you want a part number, rather than simply visiting the Parts Dept, of your local local dealer - equipped with the posted photos and asking ‘ can you please advise price and availability on this?’ Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, Thanks for coming back on this, but honestly, I’m still not altogether clear, but do understand that someone has already attempted to do a reasonable ‘bodge’. Considering spending £1,200 at Audi to improve its trade in value? Personally, I think you can knock that idea on the head. I just cannot see any chance of the economics working out in your favour. So OK, you have a nicely shaped aperture and as I understand it, you no longer have the ‘cover’ for that hole. Want to effect a reasonable alternative repair? Why not fabricate a slightly larger cover plate and simply attach it with small removable self tapping screws, and get the areas sprayed! I could even think of neater ways to solve this on a DIY basis, but even that one is better than spending £1200 or buying a cheap aftermarket one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, Am I right in thinking the paintwork is chipped around the hole where the flap sits? Personal view:- £75 for an aftermarket just sounds too cheap, and OK, pessimistic, but you could find its fit and finish is not what you would want - and that’s before you will be spending a significant amount of money to it painted. I would be giving this route a good couple of coats of thinking about before following that. My time would be spent on thinking about an alternative method of securing the flap back into your existing bumper. This should be well within the scope of a bit of head scratching. An absolute economical, and relatively hassle free way to get back where you were. Bare aftermarket bumper would certainly not be for me in this case. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Apologies if obvious, but take it you’ve tried Audi, and you then didn’t need to know the part number. Kind regards, Gareth.