Magnet

Hello Nev, Thanks for joining the forum and posting your query. No doubt you have tried the procedures listed on on-line searches. If not, they are worth a try, but I’ve failed with all of them. You mention you have recently bought the car - from a main dealer? - other retailer? If so, I would be first seeking assistance there, since it’s reasonable to expect that both fobs should be working, and if not, rectified at their expense. Car is 2019 - still just under warranty? Might be worth a try if so. All else fails, then it sounds like you will need the assistance of an independent to re-programme the fob. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Nev. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rich, All these symptoms could be a classic case of battery issues, and we note that that was renewed ( make?) and it it reduce the problems for a little while. What I would ask is - was the alternator output also checked at the same time? If not, then it’s certainly worth a low cost testing elimination before moving on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the additional information Abhishek, and it sounds as if you have done everything correctly. Sachs and LUK are associated companies and well respected as suppliers of aftermarket clutch kits. You say the car has been mapped (quite considerably?) and your parts supplier confirmed the kit was correct, but I wonder if you confirmed fitment with LUK/Sachs Technical, and if not, it might now be worth checking that with them. What we don’t know is whether the clutch operation was similar to this before it was replaced, and how long you’ve owned it to gain the experience of what was wrong with it. My progressive step would be to first check with LUK, and take your actions based on the facts you gain there. Buying the parts yourself can be a worthwhile way of doing it ( and I do it) but the downside is that the fitter can dismiss any responsibility in terms of the correct parts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Abhishek, We need input from forum members who have the same model year, but it doesn’t sound to be as it should be, to me. It sounds as if you have had the ‘full’ clutch kit fitted - using a good quality brand. A couple of points:- can we take it as read that the release bearing was changed -? I guess the car was originally fitted with a dual mass flywheel, and this was replaced like for like, rather than fitting a solid flywheel (if possible). Did you supply the kit, or was it supplied by the garage who fitted it? Bleeding? The presence of air in the system is likely to cause the pedal to feel slack and the biting point to be nearer the floor, so highly unlikely to be that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Werner, Sorry to hear that the necessary software was not installed prior to taking delivery, but at least you now know why it’s not working, and have an imminent date for it to be rectified, so there’s now some positive news which will hopefully sort it all out. Of course, the situation disappoints, but sorted it will be. My personal (non environmental!) view is that I would be clapping my hands that it isn’t working. The maximum stress and wear with an engine is on start up, so the less start ups the better. With either belts or chain driven camshafts, the load on the chain or belt will be increased at every start up. Just not for me, and my non-Audi has it fitted, and I have to re- isolate this ‘facility’ every time I switch off. A family member has a different model from the same manufacturer, and now finds that the chain needs to be replaced at less than 50k miles - a job that will cost £2,200 to sort, before the chain decides to jump a few teeth and wreck the engine to the tune of a >£11k bill for a replacement engine. That vehicle has run on SS throughout its 6 year life. Still, we are all different, and SS can be seen as either an additional ‘toy’ or a pain in the proverbial. You take your choice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Corey, Is it still running with the remains of 4 year old fuel in it? Kind regards, Gareth.

So it’s a self assessment then.

Hello Tony, Thanks, but is this a self assessment check, or a physical check carried out by an independent body? Any connection? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mathew, ‘….always be another one…’ - I guess so. I would recommend you alway start by searching the free on-line MOT history checking, and the DVLA vehicle check before getting excited about any example. Also check the vehicle’s service history, which might mean contacting your local Audi dealer with details of the Reg. no. and/or the VIN. If you are then impressed enough to consider buying it, then I would certainly ‘invest’ in a professional inspection ( unless you feel you are completely confident in carrying that out) before putting a pen to any piece of paper, or getting a bank card out. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, The vehicle check you recommend - is this a ‘history’ check, or an actual full professional inspection of the vehicle? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mathew, Thanks for being in touch. Obviously I don’t know anything about this car other than what is available via. on-line searches, which I guess you have already done, and apologies for repeating, if so. Last owner appears to have owned it for a short time ( not a good sign) judging by the last V5 issued at 3/7/21 and the car hasn’t been taxed since March. I guess you’ve checked the MOT history and found the car failed the last test due to the EML being on, yet later passed. Also the car has an MOT gap from being tested April 2018 and not tested again for over two and a half years, during which time it had covered some 33k miles. An earlier MOT refers to tyres near the limit which is never a good sign of caring maintenance. The advert doesn’t mention anything about service history - have you enquired and seen sight of what they have of this? Belted engine? If so evidence of when it was last renewed? Seller’s reviews are mixed, but you need to draw your own conclusions re. your aim (I guess) of buying a nice car from nice people. If I was in your situation, I would be attempting to get someone local to view the car for you, and if that proves favourable, then investing in a professional inspection before progressing. When buying a car at a distance you run a higher risk of kissing goodbye to the practicalities of any warranty. Trusting some of this may be of help Mathew, and good luck with whatever you decide to do - but don’t depend on luck. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Wendy, You will need to give us more information, and details of what help and advice you need. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, Just as well I posted, so at least others will now know what the solution was. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, You may (in caps) have two brake light bulbs per side - worth a check. Also check for poor contacts and good earths. Use contact cleaner as necessary. Kind regards, Gareth.

Not quite sure why you asked what to do Dan, when you are suggesting just loosening the hinge star bolts was the answer you wanted! Seems odd that you were disappointed that that wasn’t the reply you had ……. ‘but never mind … my suggestion worked’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mufid, Personally, I’m not a fan of the ‘cheapest way of doing it’ maintenance arrangements, since such things usually work out to cost more in the long run! ‘Once and wisely’ is my slant on it. I guess you have weighed up the cost advantages/ disadvantages of buying the equipment to DIY it, against getting it done, and have worked out it’s not economical to DIY it, so it’s down to having to get it done. OK, so around £50 to spend at an independent - that works out at about 30p/week over the anticipated life of the battery. Seems cheap enough to me to get the car as it should and must be. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anthony from the Homeland, By hand. DA s are for wimps! - you must be a youngster. How long has this bird poo been on your paintwork Anthony? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, As Cliff suggests, the issue is likely to be some wear in the hinge/s. The simplest dodge with such things was to open the door and (with a block packing) gently jack up the open side of the offending door with a trolly jack, so the door begins to take the weight of the car. Standing on the sill step usually aids ‘finer adjustment’.! Having said all that, best option is to nit it around to a trusted local bodyshop and get them to sort it for you. My method works, but does need a fair degree of ‘done a few’ before letting any inexperience loose on anyone’s pride and joy! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anthony, Farecla G3 cutting compound -used sparingly with some spayed- on water should make a difference. Then finish off by wax polishing the affected, and surrounding area. Problem is the G3 may not be available in an economically small size. You could find a local detailer, and entrust the job to them. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carl, My strong advice would be:- Notify the seller. Order a genuine Audi sensor. Do not ( in caps) drive it until the part is fitted. Fitting it yourself? Yes OK, but I think you run the risk of negating your seller warranty if you do - you would need to speak with them about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Victor, It depends on how long ‘a while’ is regarding the length of time it’s been standing, and what the affect of this would be. I think it goes without saying that currently the car can only be sold as seen, and without trial, or any indication of its overall mechanical condition, in terms of satisfying the MOT requirements. As such the value will obviously be (significantly?) reduced. Having said that, the value of cars has increased over the last year or so, so you may find that even in its current condition, it might be worth more than it was a couple of years ago when it might have been road legal. Simple answer to your question - yes it will be worth more and be more saleable if it has a current MOT and is road legal to test prior to purchase - but I guess you are aware of that anyway. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, Thanks for joining the forum, and pleased to hear you are delighted with the new car. Another NI poster informs us that you only have one Audi dealer in NI, so we guess you bought it through them. It’s normal for dealers to take a little time and assist new owners with setting up what are now normally required bits of technology. Didn’t they do that with you, and if not, it sounds the best option would be to drop it back and as them to set up what is required? Surely they should be able to assist. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Turlough, Apologies for suggesting what you had already done, and unfortunately we find ourselves in this situation from time to time, since we are not made aware of the extent of searching that has gone on. So that I can get my head around this, you are of a different opinion to the dealer about whether the part you want is (now?) combined with an adjacent part, but whatever, the part/s you want are discontinued -? - so not available new in the U.K./NI. Are you saying they might be available as ‘old stock’ somewhere - at dealers or EBay sellers who might have bought out redundant stock? Am I losing my logic by suggesting that if you see what you think is the right part/s via. a Continental EBay seller you simply compare images and dimensions with the probably limited number of listings for what you think is the right part? I guess you are aware of the on-line car breaker link sites where you can list your ‘wants’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Turlough, I would have thought this would have been quite easy - just return to your dealer armed with the photo you have taken. Surely it must be possible to correctly identify what you want. Take it you are going to buy the part from the dealer, once they have correctly identified it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Steve Y should be able to make more valid suggestions, but might include possible injector problems?? Kind regards, Gareth.