Magnet

Hello Josh, Sorry to hear of the issues with the car. Before further ado:- can we take it you bought this as a private sale? If so, how long had thre seller owned it? Do you have access to the wording of the advertisement? If so, did the wording describe the condition of the car? Even private sales have to fairly describe the goods - if the advert doesn’t, then there should be an avenue for redress. This is why you now see an increasing number of adverts for vehicles for sale simply describing them as ‘Starts, drives, stops’. No comeback in such situations - assuming it does what the statement describes! If this were mine, I would be getting this assessed by a trusted local diesel specialist ( not an Audi dealer or independent). Even I’m getting bored with writing this statement, but recommendations for trusted local diesel specialist? Ask at your local taxi rank - these chaps depend on such sources for keeping their cars on the road. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brad, I think solving your problem rests in ‘.........I don’t have a powerful impact wrench...’ If this were mine, I would be getting this to my local trusted friendly garage or tyre retailer, and asking them to put their ‘proper’ impact wrench on the bolt - before you start to damage/ round the corners off bolt head! These bolts are normally treated with thread lock from new and can be xxxx to undo, so my advice is do not play about trying to remove something which you don’t have the tools to deal with. Blowtorch? Little propane burner with a largish flame? Don’t worry about the Plusgass Brad, just worry about the petrol tank/filler. Not really for me to tell you what to do, but don’t do it! Anyway, the heat output (from propane alone) of these burners is unlikely to have much effect on releasing such a bolt from its heat-sink assembly. It went in, so it has to come out - with the correct tool. It’s not so much brute force but more about continuous ‘shock’ rotation. Let us know how you get on Brad. Kind regards, Gareth.

Very difficult to say Owen, since your posts introduce isolated problems with one brake then moves to reported problem with another brake - without knowledge of whether the first affected is still affected - if I’m reading this correctly, and I really don’t know if I am. Diagnosing at a distance? 3/4 impossible. All I can ask is:- why would a faulty master cylinder only affect one or two wheels rather than all four? Why would a faulty servo ( brake effort assist) do the same? If it were mine:- Get it to a local accommodating MOT station and get the brake efficiency checked at each wheel. This is an essential starting point. Then run the car and re- establish which wheel/s are causing any degree of overheating ( by comparing each wheel). You will then be getting a much clearer base point, and a feel for whether the situation changes wheel to wheel over a day or so. I’m sure your garage will renew any component you suggest - why wouldn’t they? It’s all work and money. Out come? ‘Well you asked us to change them sir’. Great question Owen! Really depends on having complete comprehensive detailed symptoms from a series of tests, so I cannot answer that unfortunately. ABS unit???? But note the ?? marks. Worth trying another garage and simply allowing them to diagnose the problem rather than suggesting to them what you think it may be? If they change something and it doesn’t solve the problem, then you talk about who pays for what! Keep us informed Owen, Kind regards, Gareth.

Good luck Owen, Not a logical decision in my book, for reasons already explained, but........ Hope it sorts out your problem. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello William, Glad you have the diagnosis sorted - new battery required. The bit I’m not so keen on - but it’s not my car - is the jump leads and bump start bit. I really wouldn’t want you to be stuck, so do you mind if I just re- stress that this battery is likely to fail without warning. A couple of months ago, I was asked to jump start a 15 month old car which was failing to even attempt to turn over. The car would not jump start since the battery had failed ‘internally’ and would not allow any current to flow through it. Never in my x ( large figure) years have I experienced that. Battery was obviously replaced under warranty by the **** manufacturer - not VAG group. I think I would be investing in a new battery without delay. Starting handles and getting away with batteries not holding charge. Less complicated motoring days I think Cliff! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, I don’t see why you can’t buy them from Audi, or better still, get the selling dealer to order them from Audi, since they should have been with the car ( handbooks that is). If they order them then at least they will get them at their discount and no doubt you can compromise on who pays what. Service book? I think this car should have come with an actual service book - most don’t now - simply resorting to all service information being logged on the main dealer servicing system. It is possible to buy service books and request the servicing main dealer to retrospectively fill in the appropriate servicing detail. If this were mine, I would start at your local main dealer and ask for a service print out for the car. Proof of ownership may be necessary via. the V5 in your name. I guess this sale was not via. an Audi dealer - ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Oleg, I think you are very wise in doing all the homework you can before considering buying this particular vehicle. Things to look for with Q5s in general? Sorry I cannot help you with that side of the enquiry, but no doubt owners on here will come along. This particular vehicle? No doubt you are aware that it passed its first MOT in July of this year ahead of its 3rd birthday in September. A little strange, but no doubt the car came into the trade back in July. Mileage then appears to be a little under 25K - low for a 3 year old diesel. How long has it been owned by its last keeper? Consult V5 and if possible contact the keeper. For sale at main dealer? If not, has it been part exchanged for another marque. End of lease sale? Main dealer service history checking? First registered in Maidstone area so good place to start. Good luck with your enquiries. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, I would like to think that the answer to your question lies (even) in the the most recent posts. This may not be what you want to hear, since it is human nature to ‘fall in love’ with the car you want to buy, and then seek reassurance that all is now reasonably well sorted. It would appear not to be reliably so. Sorry, but I would say buy at your peril. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. You should be able to send private messages to any of the posters to see what they would advise.

Hello William, I’m very much with Cliff on this. I and dare I say - possibly - Cliff will recall batteries failing with some degree of warning. Nowadays they seem to fail almost ‘catastrophically’ - appearing to be OK one day, and problematic the next. I see your car is about 8 years old, and if the battery hasn’t been renewed, then it’s likely it’s about done its time. Certainly get its efficiency checked, but I would anticipate it needs renewing. If so, record all the data off your existing one and have a look on line for a quality replacement such as Bosch or Varta. Suppliers such as Tayna, Battery Megastore will ship one out to you quickly. Personally, I don’t favour many of the other brands which might be available cheaper or dearer. Kind regards, Gareth.

There could be many causes of poor lighting, but if your headlights are.....’so hazy it makes it dangerous to drive’, then you must eliminate this haze.

Sorry, looking at the 2013 A6 you list under your profile.

Well ‘b’ you will know how effective the use of this kit has been. If it hasn’t effectively removed the majority of the haze then it has been ineffective, and the likely cause of poor lighting remains there. Has it removed the haze or not? If not you need to try something else. Have a look at YouTube videos etc. or try something like a G3 rubbing compound. It’s had work, but usually successful. What surprises me is that we are talking a 6 year old vehicle here - now that would be unusual, unless the car has been subjected to our cheap pressure lance waving car cleaners. Not so cheap when it affects such things, and brake components when wheel cleaner is applied. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Georgia, Straight from the school of simple things first - I would advise getting the battery efficiency checked first. Yes, I appreciate the car is only four years old, but all systems are now so dependent on the precise efficiency of all aspects of the battery’s efficiency. Batteries and service life:- so far this year, 15 month old (xxxx) battery failed - couldn’t even jump start it through the original battery! 3 year and 3 month old ‘prestige’ make with below spec. battery causing non stop/start and other issues. This is just based on my DIY year to date. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello ‘b’, When you say hazy, do you mean the plastic lens has become hazy, or are you talking about some other part of the headlight? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Huw, It could well be to do with linkage adjustment, but (just in my opinion) it is rare that the system would need to be adjusted - particularly twice. Getting it done for free a year after ? Um? I think this will boil down to the degree of goodwill which is extended. Bought from one of Mr Sinclair’s dealerships? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Just a couple of points:- In my experience, the only place to go for information about recommended tyre pressures ( if not shown inside the fuel filler flap etc.) is the vehicle handbook, checking against wheel and tyre size, and number of passengers etc. Over inflation and tyre pressure warning? Good question. Does this system alert to over inflation as well as under? If not, it should do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Owen, Obviously not saying this has anything to do with it, but Pagid is a brand name used by Euro Car Parts. Mintex was a once very well respected brand - now simply a bought out brand name. Re. your other suggested possibilities:- if master cylinder and or servo, why aren’t all (in caps) four wheels adversely affected? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Have you wandered into your local (long established if possible) motor factors and enquired there? They should be able to give you the aftermarket - Walker etc. - part numbers, which is likely to broaden your horizons. From my (earlier information) it appears similar in form to that fitted to the earlier 1989 to 1991 90 saloons which Walker list under part no. 64 15241. Kind regards, Gareth.

It all hinges on using good quality oils and filters. Cheap is just not good enough in my book particular when DIY = free labour costs!

Hello Owen, I’m confused. You know you have an issue with the N/S front brake not releasing - that problem is not going to go away by any amount of brake rolling road testing. If your mechanic believes O/S is .....not working at all... then obviously this is a new issue. OK test will assess its efficiency, but as I say, will not do anything for the problem you have already highlighted. Incidentally, who fitted the new discs and pads, and what make were they? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Sorry cannot help with 1 for your model year, but I’m sure somebody will. Do you have a handbook? If so, this should point you to the correct original - assuming you want to return it to that set up. Re.2 - sounds very much as if the car has been subjected to short runs, and what you are seeing is condensation. If it were mine, I would be treating it to a good run of at least 20 miles, followed by an immediate oil drain, clean off the residue, fit a new good quality oil filter (main dealer or if not Mann) and refill with a good quality engine oil of the correct grade (5w30? please check). I only use Quantum Longlife 3 which was/is recommended by VAG. Garages would not have the time to take the car for such a run etc., so it would be best done as a DIY job if you have the skills. Re. 3. Probably no more than a poor/dirty connection. Worth investing in 1/2hr with an autoelectrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Harch, I think the forum needs a specific answer in order to offer any meaningful advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Harch, Could you let us know whether ‘does not start’ means the engine is not being cranked over by the starting motor, or it is, but the car does not start? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Owen, Sorry it didn’t work for you. When advising sight-unseen it’s always difficult to try to diagnose these/any issues. ABS unit? Possibly. I’m from the school of simple things first, which is fine if it’s on a DIY principle, but not so good if you are paying someone to look at the simple things! It it were mine, and if (in caps) I was examining the car myself at no charge to me, I would be checking that the caliper slides are properly free and the caliper carrier is free from any distortion. Also double checking the disc sits nicely on a cleaned and de rusted hub - garages sometimes/often don’t take as much care with this as a DIY person would, since time is money. Yes you can ask them to recheck these and other eliminating factors, but ..... Back to ABS units. Obviously this is where the costs comes in, and is replacing it going to guarantee to solve the problem? Yes it’s possibe it will, be let’s hope it doesn’t turn out to be another costly try-that experience. I could think about rigging up some trial brake pipework which would by pass the ABS unit supply to this caliper and do a quick trial-only test with that, but not simple, and would be costly if not DIYing, so I guess you are in their hands. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, I think you are absolutely right in saying there is likely to be mixed opinion on this. Mark’s dealer has probably given him sound opinion, but I wonder about the correct wording relating to ‘sealed for life’. If this means what it really says and the unit is indeed ‘sealed’ then Mark has been given the correct advice. If, as I think they mean - Audi does not have this on their service schedule - then all it means is that it doesn’t have (in caps) to be done, and it’s back to your question of whether to or not. I found the same very vague situation with the fuel filter on our 2006 A3. No service interval - which is of course daft. Not sure if any of this helps, so it might be worth keeping an open mind on it. Kind regards, Gareth.