Magnet

Oh blinking heck Colin. Fair do s as we say in theses parts - your persistence in finding out whether this hub has an integral ABS sensor or an external ring has to be ‘admired’. Again you are looking at spurious makes. How about:- Googling the U.K. contact phone number for Febi and asking for their technical department ( I have talked with them in recent months). Simply ask them for their part number for the rear hub and do an EBay search (or contact sellers) for that part. External ABS ring or not?? - just get the right part, and it will be right! You search EBay illustrations for days looking at generic images and still remain confused! As I say, change the backing plate if not already changed. There are good quality German ones out there and not so good, not much cheaper, alternatives. When changing the hub (or bearing if you are still thinking about going down that road) you will need the correct large splined socket together with a good impact wrench - and of course a hub puller. Sorry no one else is offering you the alternative advice you might want. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Colin again, Just a couple of personal-view comments on your EBay link:- Compatibility charts are notoriously unreliable, and I always, check the application is correct by passing the registration number on yo the supplier. Images should always be treated as simply generic and may or may not represent the image of the actual part you will receive. Again, personally, I would not touch this with a barge pole, since it has probably been manufactured a ‘ few miles east of the Thames estuary’ and could be of dubious quality. If it were mine I would be looking at Febi, and find the correct part number for your reg. no. Probably won’t cost you much more than this, and even if it does, it’s worth considering the savings made by a labour-free DIY. Unfortunately, it doesn’t seem as if owners of your model are on here today to offer you alternative advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew again, I’ve just re read your post no. 1 of 2, and if your experience of non responses on this forum is based on your initial post, then you had two replies which might have been helpful to you, together with pages of lead-up responses to your question, before you raised it. I’m not quite sure what more help the forum could have offered in relation to your question. Of course, if your second post just relates to responses in general then, perhaps you may be right, and indeed the forum could do with more input in certain categories. Any chance you would consider joining in and offering advice? The forum will surely benefit from all contributions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, Good question, which I guess applies to many other forums. In simple terms, forums are not a guaranteed sources of free technical advice, and posts are generally answered by ‘volunteers’ who are prepared to give up their time to freely pass on whatever knowledge they have for the benefits of others. Sometimes that experience and knowledge is available here and sometimes it isn’t - Thimple, as the advert says. Alternative sources of advice will be on a paid-for basis at main dealers, and I guess this can be compared with paying privately to see a medical specialist at your local hospital. Knowledge and experience are king, and generally it’s not taken for granted that they will be willingly shared for free. Sorry if this comes over a bit harsh, but that’s how I see it. Others will possibly see it differently. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Colin, but you’ve lost me. Febi hub for A3 was c£48 delivered. Bearing on it own probably about mid £20s plus. Why would you want to be attempting to pull an old bearing out, and press (assume you’ve got a press) a new one in, for barely a £20 saving? The hub has to come off anyway! ABS ring, no ring? Thought I’d covered that. IF it’s the same as the A3 then no ring just a weak magnet - weak enough not to signal ABS after 13 years. New bearing in old hub? Pretty obvious outcome if yours is the same as A3. Anyway Colin, someone might shed the extra light on this that you are looking for. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. You might well find the disc backing plate has rusted so would be well worth renewing while you are in there.

Hello Peter, The in-between of an Audi main dealer and an ‘ordinary’ garage would be an Audi ‘independent’ specialist. You should find one relatively local to you, or even better, via. a recommendation on here from someone in your area. I would still try main dealerships since they sometimes have offers on such things. Worth shopping around a couple or so. Genuine Audi parts can be obtained from TPS (Trade Parts Supply) who I believe have depots nationally. Sometimes parts are available to non account holders at a discount - sometimes not - so worth having your main dealer prices to hand for comparison. Water pumps and changes? I wouldn’t advise changing the cambelt assembly without changing the water pump on Audi - on Volvo for example, OK. As said, the big must in my book is do not (in caps) use any pump other than a genuine Audi one, whatever assurances you may be given. If anyone is going to be cost conscious on this, then leave the old one in rather than use an aftermarket one. I think you will find Audi will tell you they (only?) do reconditioned ones and need your old one to be returned. So I’m told, the pumps are new, but VAG want your old one back to scrap it to keep it out of the any substandard outside reconditioning service! Beware of aftermarket ones specified to be of OE quality and therefore as good as VAG. Words are cheap! Other associated parts worth considering:- auxiliary belt and tensioner, since if this belt goes, it has been known to break the plastic cambelt cover, wrap itself where it shouldn’t be, and wreck the engine. Hope some of this helps. Kind regads, Gareth.m

Hello Bob, Welcome to the forum. My view is...why would you want to deviate from the pressures recommended by VAG following their testing and trials in conjunction with their tyre suppliers? You mention ‘...don’t feel right..’. By that, do you mean the vehicle doesn’t handle properly? If so, return to your dealer and seek advice there. Perhaps a little OTT, but consider a situation where you deviate from the manufacturer’s recommended pressures, and you are involved in an accident. Would you want to be in a debating situation with your insurers? All the above is just a personal view Bob, but why fiddle...? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, I think the answer to your question has been covered in my p.s., and if you are still querying it, then the impression gained is that you are attempting to get this done at the lowest cost. That is understandable, but.... Some questions will need to be answered if advice is going to be meaningful:- Has the vehicle been main dealer serviced throughout its 3 year warranty period and the 4th year? If yes, do you intend to continue this servicing regime? Is there any chance that you are considering doing this job yourself? If not, are you considering getting a local garage to do the job for you? If so, they are more likely to use aftermarket parts obtainable at best prices to them, and the quality of some of these parts can be questionable. What guarantee do you have that they will use the make of parts you will specify? To try to summarise:- main dealers often have offers on such jobs, so worth checking around a couple. The main issue with aftermarket parts is potentially problematic water pumps. Personally, I would recommend main dealer parts only. If you wish to save a little bit, then the only aftermarket make I would use would be a Gates kit, but I would not use their kits which include a water pump, since I don’t know the aftermarket source of their pumps. Bottom line - if you want to save a bit of money then use a Gates kit with a no-exception main dealer water pump, but as I first said, I would not treat this critical application job as one where cost is king. Just not worth the risk. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Colin, Good question. To start, personally I would not go with fitting a new wheel bearing into your existing hub. - too much effort for the work involved. If it’s of any help, we have just replaced the rear hub on a 2006 A3 due to an ABS warning light issue. There wasn’t a ‘stand alone’ ABS ring on this hub. In fact no ring at all. As a I understand it the ABS is energised by a built in magnetic section into the hub casing - this being a very weak magnet which might be virtually undectable - but there. These magnets are so weak as to cause issues if their magnetism falls off slightly. I didn’t go with a VAG part this time but bought a good quality aftermarket one by Febi Bilstein. Worth looking on the old ? Bay for good prices. Hope some of this may help. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for letting us know Eugen. Hopefully! that was the only cause of the problem, but as you say - you assume - it is. I still think I would have had the running oil pressure measured incase it was low, and your new switch simply tips you over the line of enough pressure to put the light out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, Recommended timing belt change intervals are always quoted as ‘x miles or x number of years - whichever comes first. You will need to recheck with the main dealer, and I would suggest checking with a couple. 5 years or approx. 100,000 whichever comes first sounds about right - but I would certainly recheck this against the above logic. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. The quality of parts used is vitally important since this critical application should definitely not be treated as a best-price job.

Hello David, Injector cleaner? Little to lose by giving it a try, but likely to sort out the problem??? Tesco did have diesel Redex additive at reduced price. In my experience, issues with diesels should be entrusted to diesel specialists not ‘ordinary’ garages (even if cheaper-than-main-dealer independents). Apologies for rubbing it in, but I think the independent gave you a good clue with ...’unlikely to stop the smoke’. Still, time to move on and seek specialist advice, and decide if you are going to live with the issue or attend to it. Chose your specialist carefully. Perhaps you could keep the forum updated on how you get on David. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m confused Davis! From your earlier reply to Cliff it appears the previous owner must have ‘.....removed one metal piece...’ from every lock then, since you say ‘....all three..’ Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, This sounds rather typical of injector issues. In my experience - glowplugs? - unlikely to have been an issue. When you say ‘...the garage...’ ,are they diesel specialists? If not, I would certainly be seeking a trusted one in your locality. The often repeated, now boring, advice is to enquire for recommendations on such, at your local taxi rank. These chaps depend on such a experience for a fast turn around living. Injectors can normally be initially tested by a fairly simple leak-back test, but will need removal, inspection and reconditioning to return them to their correct level of efficiency. Not cheap David, so might depend on what you and your neighbours! are prepared to put up with. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Davis, Programming your second remote is of course an option, but if your remote central locking fails, you simply don’t have a means of getting into your car! Other better option? Give Audi your VIN and request the build key code, and then order a key - assuming the locks are the original. Also that option in Latvia? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Mr. Sinclair and the money was just mentioned with tongue in cheek. It seems you are not currently experiencing the good vibes and joys normally associated with new car buying, and this really should not be. I think the days of the marque-experienced salesman is behind us, and might have been replaced by groups of transient sales-course briefed individuals who may not be truly ‘passionate’ about the marque they represent at that moment in time. Showing my age, but car salesmen were once known locally for their allegiance and knowledge of the brand they had sold for a decade or two, and if they were forced to move to selling another marque, they then seemed to lose whatever respect they had. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Sorry to hear of your problem and your understandable frustration. If there is any consolation here, it is that the vehicle is not yet yours, and you are not stuck with progressing the issue or its resolution. Cancelling and a Mercedes? Under Mr. Sinclair’s empire? - so your money will go into the same pot. Good luck in getting this sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks James. My thoughts now are that there was an escape of brake (well of course the clutch) fluid which is combustible. Source of this escape of clutch fluid? Possible pipe on to the bell housing or failure of the clutch release cylinder. All this assumes your model has an hydraulic operated clutch rather than a cable operated set up. I notice the car is only recently out of warranty, and I wonder if an application for some degree of good will payment may be in order here on such a comparatively late car - assuming reasonable mileage and service history. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shahan, Sorry, it’s probably me, but I’m not quite following this. Are you suggesting that the low oil pressure light is connected to the fuel pump/s feed and if it is illuminated, then the fuel will not be pumped? Would seem a good safeguard, but do you know this is the case? Ref. Low oil pressure light because being illuminated because oil is not getting to the top of the engine - cannot really see this, since if the oil pump and lubrication system is serviceable, then simply cranking the engine over ( even if it will not start) will result in the pump creating enough pressure to extinguish the light. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Sorry to hear of your problem. What was the sequence of your clutch going that led to a fire - where? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Mark for updating the forum. Hopefully your persistent actions will assist others in a similar situation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Davis, I’m very much with Cliff and his Q1. It’s not out of the question that the driver’s door lock has been changed, or indeed someone has just acquired remotes (with any old key) and had one programmed to operate the central locking. Re. the second fob. Might not be any consolation, but I’ve tried all methods I can find to re programme my second (original) fob, which went peculiar some years back. No success I’m afraid, and I just use it as an emergency key, rather than spend on getting it re programmed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stewart, Simple things first - an array of warning lights could be due to a below par battery - I notice the car is 9 years old and it would be helpful to know if it’s still running on its original battery or not. If it is, it would be worth getting the battery efficiency checked in any case. Kind regards, Gareth.

Simple things first Chris :- get a thorough (inner face as well) inspection of all tyres - if not already done. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anish, As I said in an earlier post, you are one of the rare persons affected by this to have thought through the logic of the situation and got a clear action plan in place. Keeping evidence - at least one tyre - is essential - plus multiple photos of the ones which are being returned. The ones being returned should be clearly identified as originating from yourself. You can use your own identifying symbols. Only points I would make:- Yes, points on licence would be a major issue, but only of importance if you are alive! Dead, along with others as a result of faulty tyres, and it really doesn’t matter. Motor Ombudsman? Straight from the mind of a cynical old sod with up to date experience of dealing with the Energy Ombudsman:- these services are sometimes ( generally, always?) run by funding from the associated major players in the associated manufacturing organisation. So Energy would be supported by the biggest energy suppliers? Motor, by the major suppliers to the motor trade? Do I need to say more. This really does need a co ordinated attack. How you tap into an unbiased appraisal, when you consider the majority of motoring ‘publicity’ is funded by advertising by major players, so getting through this must be like getting through barbed wire! No offence meant, but I guess even this forum has to be supported by advertising - so who will be prepared to pull their sleeves back and fight this - with anticipation of getting financially knocked about a bit? Could you please keep us informed Anish, since you clearly have your finger on the pulse. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.