Magnet

Hello Paul, The small print exclusions is where your homework needs to be done with warranties. A lot of money to spend to find ‘ wear and tear’ etc. isn’t covered. Perhaps someone will come along with some recommendations for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis, Thanks for joining and posting your request. I don’t know how the R8 high level brake light is held in place, but Incase it helps, with the A3 you have to ease back/remove the plastic trim in the interior behind the light unit. You may then find a number of sprung white tapered fixings - each of which need to be compressed with a long nose pliers to release them- the springs will ensure they remain released. The unit can then be removed and replaced. Watch the rubber gasket. Using Chinese ones ?? How long will the LEDs last? Might be worth looking on You Tube to see if there is a listed procedure for the R8. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Graham, OK F1. I guess it takes daft amounts of marketing funds to ‘establish’ a brand. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Gavin, but I’m still favouring the reconditioning of your original shaft by a specialist. Kind regards, Gareth.

Your Audi dealer will tell you Ben - but that’s probably not going to be the source of your supply -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, I think the simplest, but most comprehensive outcome is to search the forum over the last month, and you will find a post about the ‘previously confusing data ‘ relating to Audi’s servicing plans. This has been sorted out by the poster, and you will find his information is very comprehensive - best reading source to provide the answers for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gavin, Do I understand you are paying £1800 for a propshaft for your 12 year old car. You don’t tell us what the symptoms are, so I guess you have confidence in the garage who say you will need a new, one to cure your issues. Of course Steve is right when he in effect says you don’t have to worry about part numbers etc. and whether it’s the right one or not - the dealer’s responsibility to provide you with the correct one. Your worry is to arrange the mortgage! Apologies for one of these ‘Purple Bricks’ moments, but you could have tried searching for propshaft reconditioning services (possibly even in your area) before committing to buying a new one? Still, deed done now. Kind regards, Gareth.

Um!? I certainly wouldn’t try the bodge of thread tape. Self tapping plug? Never seen one. A correctly retapped new thread and oversized sump plug would be one way, but you will first have to go down the route of finding a suitable ‘oversize’ plug, then buying (expensive) the correct thread tap for it. Hellicoil? possible but depends on what wall thickness you have around the current plug socket. Ease of removing the sump pan on your model? Safest bet is to renew the sump. OK, could be expensive, but cheaper than an engine rebuild if the current plug decides to leave home. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Mick. That sort of run would ensure the battery is as fully charged as it can be - subject to correct alternator output and all battery monitored parameters satisfying the required outputs. An ‘ordinary’ battery efficiency test is unlikely to positively confirm that the battery is in good health, unless it monitors cold cranking currents and other aspects. So, if it were mine:- find another dealer and book this in, with a clear description of the issue, and when it manifests itself. When you go to pick it up, (and they might not find anything wrong either) then ensure you/they demonstrate it’s fine with the heater on! - if they claim it is OK. Of course, it could be an issue with the heater control, but… eliminate the simple things first. Not a fan of S/S. I’m not the only one then! I’ve got to remember to switch mine off on every trip on our non-Audi. Good luck with getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve 123, Wouldn’t surprise me if your air con. system just wants some re gassing.- after leak testing. A local air con. specialist or suitably equipped garage should be able to sort that quite cheaply. Oil change? I seem to recall that your model uses a ‘special spec.’ oil, so as Steve says, worth trying an independent, but have a chat to establish they know what oil it takes. I would avoid any other cheap quote until you have done your homework. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. could you please complete your profile.

Hello Mick, If this barely 4 month old car is equipped with stop/start, and it doesn’t always work, then there is certainly something wrong, and a/any dealer must correct the fault under warranty. Sounds as if this is a classic case of an ailing battery. May sound daft on a 4 month old car, but these cars can be sitting around for months before being registered, and battery inactivity is not good news. What would best describe your typical journey, and how often do you make these journeys? The answer may explain why it doesn’t always work. Perhaps you could let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I think I’ve gained a reputation of being too soft on here, but in your opening question ‘. ….. silly question…’ .-? No a very silly question surely! Surely you realise that you first have to enquire about the field and car ownership -? Sorry, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, Bit confused ‘….liquid moly …..I’ll give it a go’ . Then ‘….don’t want to risk it………will stick with well know brands’. Is Liquid Moly that well known brand a brand? Who makes it? Quantum (was Castrol) is/was VAG’s recommended - you say ‘slightly cheaper than Liquid Moly’. Correct/recommended oil cheaper - can’t really see where the debate is about what to use, but of course, it’s always down to personal choice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, For what it’s worth:- I’ve always stuck with Quantum oil, which is/was VAG’s recommended brand. Despite changing the oil every year, even though only c7K miles covered, I always use their Longlife 3 variant. 167k now covered in the family A3. There are many competitively priced sellers on EBay. DIY - labour free- is great, so I always ‘invest’ the savings on best brands at most competitive prices. For me, filters will always be Mann or Bosch. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, Thanks for joining. I’m sure that you will appreciate that one quote is not enough. If you have a scan through a couple of my posts over the last week? you will find suggestions for probably competitive bodywork sources in your (any) area. £500 expensive ?? You don’t tell us whether this is preparing, spraying and fitting, so what exactly are you getting done for that? I have a ball park figure of around £300 per panel, so based on your bonnet needing painting inside and out it seems there or thereabouts to me, but the answer is your hands to search best quality work at best price - in your area. Let us know what you are getting done for your quote. Kind regards, Gareth.

What ‘process’ are you referring to Steve? - and are we like minded in our opinion on this post - or not? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mark, So it’s a special tool then. Can’t match a suitable bit to attach to an ordinary torque wrench? Nothing on EBay? Kind regards, Gareth.

Very useful advice Steve. Being pointed, it’s a shame the original poster has revisited the site, but has chosen not to answer the questions left, so who knows whether your helpful advice is simply repeating what he has already done. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for joining. Pardon my ignorance, but are you looking to buy an ‘ordinary’ torque wrench, or is it a bespoke tool you are looking for? If the former, then a suitable sized one would be available at Screwfix, Toolstation, and other outlets. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, No, of course not - no offence taken or meant. I just think it makes it so much easier for you as the seller, and for your potential buyer that you have a base line price to decide on sale or purchase - otherwise both parties can find themselves messed about. As said, if the seller doesn’t have any idea of its value, then auction can be the best route. Many thanks for posting, and good luck with the sale. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Mike, Politeness is something I practice, but sometimes it can be taken as a lack of firmness. If such things were down to me I would not allow adverts without stated selling prices - full stop! If anyone’s ‘pals’ are ‘open to offers’ then they know exactly what will be acceptable and what won’t. If indeed they genuinely don’t, then put it to auction for it to realise the best price on the day. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks David - but I would expect you are as fully familiar with the anticipated price you want for it, as you are with what you have done to it. ‘Offers in the region of’ ?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Karl, Sorry to hear of your sill damage. This is likely to detract from the car’s value/appeal, and personally, I would be looking to get it rectified as funds allow. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. It won’t cost anything to get a couple of quotes, and if it were mine, I would be having a chat with a couple of the smaller used car dealers in your area. These chaps usually know where to get work done at more reasonable costs.

Price David?

Hello Rob, Thanks for joining and posting the alert of the car being for sale. The following will be desirable/essential to aid your sale. Photos - inc. damage, MOT details, how long you have owned it, and last, but most important - what price do you want for it? Kind regards, Gareth.